Here is v2 mcpcb wired up for lexel’s TA narsil driver.Tried a set of vtc5a’s in it last night and got 17800 lumens on start up .
Looks complicated, but doable.
Maybe you are the first who do it with the v2. How does it look like with the tir lens?
Received MF01 #3 today, a V2 XPG2. DOA right out of the box. After taking the batteries out and replacing them about 30 times, I got it to briefly work 3 times. Batteries and carries from the other two lights don’t work in this light either. Carrier and batteries from light #3 work in the other two lights so that takes the battery/carrier out of the equation as to the problem. Anyone else had a DOA light or having similar problems, any suggestions.
Try some pad for more downforce.
^ I don’t think this should matter: carrier length > battery tube length. This is required for the tailcap to exert a pressure to the carrier (and the carrier to the head for electrical contact).
The amount of pressure is proportional to how tight you screw the tailcap.
Edit: the pad will work if Mateminco somehow made the carrier length smaller, or the battery tube longer, to reach a critical length where the tailcap cannot exert a pressure anymore.
After installing the Lexel driver I lost contact. Depends on tenths of mm.
Interesting. It is possible Mateminco made the length critical. I believe the battery tube length of the S42 was completely off too.
I just checked both my V1 and V2, and there is roughly 0.5 mm play for the tailcap to exert pressure. Using the pad will give you certainty whether this was the problem or not. :+1:
That seems to work. Now to find a suitable way to accomplish that without jerry rigging a brand new light. So it must be that the battery tube is too long because none of the battery carriers from the three lights will work. Measured the battery tubes from all three lights, the two working lights have tubes with a length of 79.5mm, the defective light has a tube length of 80mm. Maybe BG can send a shorter battery tube.
Edit: I’m referring to drood’s suggestion.
Adhesive felt on the inside of the tailcap? The same stuff you put under chairs and tables (only thinner)?
P.S. interesting how the 0.5 mm length difference you’ve measured is identical to the critical value I’ve measured.
A thin pad is the best solution. At the material does not matter. Shortening the battery tube will not help. The second option is to reduce the cap. But that’s a shame …
You can also put three washers (one per screw) between the driver and head. So you need to unscrew the driver first, and place the washers underneath.
Probably not for that place.
Please make sure the battery tube is fully tightened before the end cap is installed and tightened.
After doing this, does the end cap thread all the way down with no gap left?
There should be at least a tiny gap to make sure the battery carrier is squeezed fully against the driver.
Shortening the battery tube by removing threads will not work as drood said, the part that is long is from shoulder behind threads to the other shoulder behind threads. JasonWW, on the two working lights there is a gap, on the defective light there is no gap unless I use the improvised spacer.
This problem has been acknowledged quite some time by the way…
Interested
Missed it before.
Okay, then as someone mentioned before, either the battery tube is a bit too long or the carrier is a bit too short. Now, how to fix it?
Super bad idea. You could crack the driver pcb doing that. The edge of the driver has to be squeezed (around the edge) on the top and bottom evenly.