ENEDED

Hello guys,
This is my first post on this forum and I hope you guys can help me :slight_smile:
I recently received my MF-01 (nichia 219C version) and it seems like I got a defective V1.
When I press the button, nothing happens almost all the time.
Here is a video about my problem :

And now it doesnā€™t turn on anymore.
Iā€™m using 4x fully charged Samsung INR18650-30Q.

What do you think ? Just a defective button ? Or driver ?

Are the batteries button top?

It looks like they are getting good contact, but I want to be sure. See if the carrier ends show 8.4v. Itā€™s possible itā€™s getting 4.2v which could make the switch light turn on, but the driver may not work properly.

If that is all good, then it could be a bad switch. Since the switch works sometimes, I assume itā€™s wires are connected. I can also hear it clicking, so the rubber boot is making contact. You can bypass the contacts in the switch by unscrewing the switch bezel and pulling it out.

Someone who has taken this model apart can tell you which two wires to temporarily jump together to simulate pressing the button. If this makes it work reliably when you know you got a bad switch PCB. If it still acts funny then itā€™s probably going to be your driver.

Thanks for the quick answer.
Iā€™ve tried using both button top and flat top and it worked a few times (I even managed to switch between the differents modes). Iā€™m getting 8.3v currently so the batteries are making good contact.
I donā€™t have a small enought screwdriver to take apart the battery tube. In any ways the light is faulty and I will ask banggood for a refund or resend and I will then see what I can do with this unit (but if the driver is faulty Iā€™m affraid there is nothing that I can do)

I have an issue with one of my carriers where one of the brass buttons is not flush, so only a corner of the batteries positive terminal makes contact. I wonder if all of your batteries are making a solid connection? I would imagine having poor contact would prevent high amp draw to the driver.

Iā€™m trying to get my carrier replaced because of the defect.

Are you talking to Raven450?

That doesnā€™t seem to be his problem, but it certainly doesnā€™t hurt anything to try adding that spacer.

Your right, he is getting contact since the switch is lighting up. Seems like a switch problem.

Thanks for your advices !
Iā€™m now pretty sure the problem is coming from the switch because I was able to turn on the light and randomly switching between the different modes by using a screwdriver to push the switch (with cap removed), but it needed to be oriented in a certain way (like 45% from the bottom). Normal pressure from the top of the switch (90Ā°) is not working so there is definitely a bad contact inside the switch or switch PCB.

Still waiting for Banggood to answer

Iā€™m starting to think these e-switches used in flashlights are junk vs a mechanical switch. From what I have seen, the construction of most of the e-switches is just a springy dome cap that gets pushed down to make contact to the bottom, then flexes back up. Seems like a cheap design. Then again there are higher quality versions of these switches rated at a million presses, odds are though allot of these lights are using cheap cloned e-switches that are pure garbage. I hardly ever see a flashlight description that describes the number of cycles the e-switch can handle.

By the way, seems like I missed something but what is the flashlight on the right on this picture ?

That is the DQG Tiny 7X xpg2.

as JasonWW pointed out that is DQG Tiny there is a GB running for the 3rd gen here ENEDED just in case you are interested. DQG seems to have problem with their light from what i read.

That group buy is over 2 years old. I donā€™t think they are on sale anymore.

There are no real problems with the light. A couple peoples driver burned up. Itā€™s a 12v boost driver so it can pull a lot of current. A few other people had the side switch break off the pcb inside. That might have been caused by people pushing the side button really hard. The vast majority of lights work just fine including mine.

The CW xpg2 is a bit towards NW and the NW is a bit towards WW.

I was a part of that group buy, so if you have any questions, let me know.

Thanks mate ! :slight_smile:

V1 has discontinued long ago... Do ensure there is no loose parts for the head module, especially the retaining ring for driver.

I need some help figuring out how to contact Astrolux. I have a MF-01 v2, that has a battery carrier with a brass button that is crooked and itā€™s making poor contact on one of the positive terminal on the battery. I either need a replacement carrier or need to know how to buy one.

Banggood is basically no help in this matter.

Iā€™m beginning to wonder if the warranty on Astrolux is only up to 30 days by Banggood.

I hope not because If this is the case I donā€™t think Iā€™m going to be buying anymore Astrolux products.

That should be an easy fix. Try putting your soldering iron on top of the button and it will sit flat as soon as the solder goes liquid.

You might need to remove the plastic protector ring to prevent it from melting.

I was thinking about that but I donā€™t know if itā€™s difficult to put the ring back on.

The best iron I have is 60 watts. Not sure if that is enough to reseat it?

60w is fine, let it fully heat up. Then clean the tip and press down on it. It should only take a second or two for the heat to travel.

Maybe someone here can tell you if itā€™s easy or hard to put the plastic piece back on. IDK.

I got similar failure with MF-01 v1.I contacted BG (photos attached) to https://www.banggood.com/Contact-Us_hi 111 and got a new one for free.After receiving the new item, I did soldering.Then we installed the plastic protector ring.The method of JasonWW is also good, I strongly pressed it after pulling out soldering iron between the button and the base.The plastic protector ring is a bit difficult.

Iā€™m happy to report that JasonWWā€™s trick worked perfectly using a 60 watt soldering iron! I decided to keep the plastic ring on while I heated up the brass button. The heat from the iron heating up the brass button didnā€™t damage the white plastic ring at all. It seems it is made of high temperature plastic!

This made the repair job a snap!

Thanks again JasonWW!