Switching on and off is the most basic and important feature. Because I don’t follow MF01 thread anymore, I don’t know is the root cause identified. But I don’t expect to see it in this MF02. That’s also why I don’t buy a 2nd UT01 that’s having switch on problem…
I believe that someone had previously posted pictures of the disassembled carrier in one if the threads. On my phone right now, but maybe someone can post the link.
It IS up to you, though. It’s part of the process. You check all screws and rings to make sure everything is tight.
The quality control on Chinese flashlights can be iffy, plus the long distance travel can cause things to loosen up. I do it on every light I purchase. You learn this from experience and it’s passed down to others so they can learn before a bad thing happens to them.
No worries, though. It’s not your fault. The driver problem may not even be related to that brass cap.
Here is a picture that Lexel posted on his mf01 preproduction review.
I never realized what that little piece was in his picture. Now it makes perfect sense. The pcb’s on the end make the center rod and the brass caps all positive. The outer rings and 4 outer posts are negative. Hence why they are covered in insulating heat shrink.
Just a comment for any UK buyers here. My MF02 which is being shipped from Singapore is being held by DHL customs because the shipping company is under HMRC investigation for customs evasion. This is because they declare a lower value on the package. I have to send proof of purchase price (and obviously pay a charge) before I can get the torch.
It’s a hassle I don’t need.
Strange that my light was already at the Royal Mail delivery office in Birmingham on the same day that it was marked as ‘shipped’ by BG (which was later verified later by Royal Mail tracking).
To use the GT driver on the MF02 and MT35 would require rewiring the battery carrier to all series to get 12v. I’m not sure how hard or easy that will be.
All right, that’s good news. Do you know of any threads showing how to do it? Is it just cutting traces and soldering wires or do you have to order new custom pcb’s for the carriers?
Exactly , and that’s the cheap way .
Option #2 is to design some new pcbs for the battery carrier .
I have converted mine to 4P1S since it’s currently running fet driver (with sir404dp) with Emisar D4 UI and dedomed xp-g2 s4 2b . I haven’t measured the output yet , but i think a dedomed sst-40 would be better for this light .