The flat tops should work, but only if you’re willing to remove the white plastic discs that are used for polarity protection.
On my MF01 (v2) I can use flattops without removing the white plastic disc.
Isn’t the MF02 supposed to have the same battery carriage as the MF01?
If not it looks like THIS seller may ship the button top 30Q’s to Finland.
Same carrier.
Don’t you remember the people that tried to do that and ended up with only three of the four batteries making contact causing them to drain unevenly? You should do that at your own risk. I would not do it. I would just add solder blobs.
Do you know why it works on your MF01? Are you using flat tops or raised flat tops? Are your white discs doing their job or will they allow a reversed cell to make contact?
It’s kinda simple to make one of those reversed polarity protection if you know how the top of your cell looks like.
I use flat tops. The metal connection on my Samsung 30Q is around 7mm (maybe around 8 counting in the legs) in diameter and are standing on three “metal legs”.
I did a quick measure on the plastic disc and it is 11.2mm in diameter (smaller then 18mm so the protection works) and the inner diameter is 9mm (so the metal + can connect and have some space to spare)
But checking on my cell the 11.2mm outer ring must push down the insulation on + side of the cell (did try press it down and it did that)
Maybe not all cells work. Just googling alittle I see that the metal + diameter or shape is not standardized.
You see the red one in the middle have 4 metal legs (may interfere) and the light green up to the left of the red one have 3 metal legs.
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This Sanyo UR18650A 18650 (also Google search) have 6 legs and seems wider so maybe don’t work.
Just to be sure I have ordered a pack of these that I will solder on top of the cell.
I think it’s better to have a flat surface then an uneven surface that a solder blob makes.
Just havn’t arrived yet.
Made of brass. Checked with the seller.
I think the best thing for Goodfellafin is to either get button top or else get flat top and add solder blob. Assuming he can solder. This way you can keep the polarity protection and not accidentally fry the light.
You also don’t risk getting bad contact from using a flat top that may or may not always make contact. I would rather be safe than sorry.
Solder blobs get excellent contact. They start out as a dome shape but kinda of squish down a little to flatten out the top. Or you can run a file across the dome to make it flat.
If you are not into soldering, use some neodymium magnets will work too.
They will stick quite firmly on batteries, they won’t fly freely around inside battery tube.
Pick the right dimension that suit your battery carrier is important, you don’t want it to short circuit anything in there.
Astrolux MF02 NW Interested
Sent.
Flat top batteries work fine without the need to remove the insulation on the anode end. I personally prefer button top (unprotected) battery because the extra ~1mm creates more compression and contact with the spring.
Paid!
I remember the reports on the MF01 thread where people used flat tops and only had contact on 3 cells. The cells would read 3.8, 3.8, 4.2 and 3.4 volts. 
I guess I’d rather play it safe and add solder blobs. Does this mean I’m getting old? Lol
Thanks for the answers! I know how to solder and also i have neodiym magnets… i guess i will go with solder blobs then. Or can i solder small magnets to positive end?
I wouldn’t solder the magnets. Adding blobs or using the little magnets should both work.
I don’t like the idea of using magnets on high drain lights, but this light should be okay.
It works but i recommend button top as first choice follow by solder blob method.
Looks great! Interested in NW! PM for code?
Ordered NW, thanks freeme!
Lexel, was this on a CW or NW?
This is good news. Hopefully mine will be shipped soon as well.
I’m interested