I posted over in Racer86's M6 resistor mod thread here some details on the driver. They changed the driver design, but still looks resistor moddable, but not sure I'd take it too much higher without converting to copper stars.
Considering the amps, XM-L2's, superior aluminum 1 piece star, better heat sinking, etc., the #'s I measured are not surprising comparing them to the other 3 LED lights I've tested.
This is a definite bump up from the original XML M6, which _the_ measured at about 2,200 lumens @30 secs.
Based on Racer86's heat tests, I'd be willing to give 4A+ per LED a try on this light. Dale got about 3,900 lumens on the M6 he modded for manxbuggy1, so I know I can beat that, no prob... It would take 1,400 per LED to get 4,200, which I'm guessing is about 4.2-4.5A with XM-L2 U2 1A's.
Hey Tom, let me know what you think of the heat sinking capabilities of the plate the emitters are mounted on. And y’all wanna bump power? lol Yeah, right. Be my guest
The light is built like a tank, but where it matters there’s almost no material. Nice light, to be sure, I just wish there were more to that mount for the emitters.
I have an extra body and driver, but no head. If you need the backend or a new driver, let me know.
Please disregard, I was thinking of another light. The SupFire M6 is built like a tank. Dang memory
Took a rough look at that pill top area. Good that it's a uni-body construction type - direct connect to the outside shell. It looked fairly thick to me, guessing maybe 2.5 mm?
By plate, do you mean the one piece MCPCB or the pill top? The aluminum MCPCB has to go...
That large aluminum mcpcb is on an aluminum plate, what you called the pill top, that is threaded into the head. Maybe 3 threads, very thin, it comes out and the head is a tube. Unless I’m remembering something totally wrong, let me look back at my disassembly pics and see if I can find it…
sorry, I was remembering that wrong, the Supfire M6 was the only one of about 4 lights of similar build that I actually liked, now that the pics have jarred my memory I recall that it was solid, thickly built and I contacted SupFire for one of my own. They wanted $30 for the light, $30 to ship it! I declined. I did, however, end up with a driver and a battery tube for one. So if you manage to damage the tailcap trying to get it off (I mangled one! Took it off eventually with 16” channel locks, had to do some file work to make it right) I do have the backend and driver.
Once again, my memory failed. This is getting really old…
I also have a complete spring board that goes in the tailcap. My driver is labeled HK4L-T6-1 and has 3 R056 resistors at each station with one blank space at each. It’s dated 6-11-2013
I guess only lights with XM-L2 comes with the new driver, both of mine that came with regular XM-L still have the old driver.
simple 3 R120 resistor mod
Oh ok, thanks Dale, hoping I won't need spare parts... Got pictures posted here, including the new driver.
Kenny - think this still can be modded easily, just need to piggyback or replace resistors. I'll be figuring out how to really crank it up, based on what I measured at the tail, and what I would want - 12A at the tail sounds crazy, but, maybe do-able.
Dale, I hate asking you this, but, can't recall seeing your posts on the M6 you modded - saw a post where you noted and manxbuggy1 notes the measured output, but do you recall what the amps measurements were, or what resistors you used? I assume you used copper MCPCB's and replaced the akuminum big one? Sorry again... If too much trouble don't go nuts tracking it down.
I didn't do a thread on it, I put de-domed XM-L2 U2 1A's in it on Noctigons, stacked R056 resistors and I think it ended up around 11.75A or something in that neighborhood. As a matter of fact, I don't think I measured it at it's full potential with the better cells as I was, ahem, a bit afraid to. :) I should be able to come up with more accurate numbers, let me have a look.
Edit: I used Sanyo UR18350FJ lap pulls and got a 9.38A reading on it. Ricky tested it at a start lumens of 4000 and 3875 at 30 seconds. That should give you an idea what it's capable of. I stacked 2 more R056 resistors on each section, one flat down in the empty space and one on top.
Thanx! Ok, this all sounds about right. 1,300 per LED at maybe close to 4A. Not sure yet what I'll do. I would think you had some tinkering to do to get the LED's into the reflectors, because of the flat back side of the reflector and low profile LED alignment plastics, as RaceR86 has described.
Quick 1/8 turn of the head turns it off fine, much simpler than any 3 second hold.
And yes, getting the Noctigon mounted emitters lined up with the reflector can be a challenge. I think I used Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive, a dollop on the back of the Noctigon, while the emitter and it's centering ring are inside the reflector, held upside down, then slid in place in the head very carefully...no wires at this point. Then press it down firm, even screw on the bezel, let it set up. The wires come in from outside the smaller Noctigons so that isn't a problem. I think I used narrow strips of brass soldered onto the pads of the Noctigon to reach out to the wires and avoid the reflector, with an insulation pad under those and over them as well.
(I cut a ring off a .45 Long Colt cartridge for the brass, about the width of the pad on the star)
A bit tricky, yes, but works like a charm. (finally)
I shorted it out when first attempting all this, rainbowed the tail springs. So I HAD to get the tail cap off and replace the springs, put bypass wire inside em while I was there. I did manage to procure a new board with springs on it, as well as the entire new body with it's glued on tail cap, and a new driver as well. But it wasn't needed in the end as Ricky liked the way it was finished out. I had tried to freeze the glue, instead of heating it (what do I know?) and it was a bear to get that tailcap off!
I ordered 3 of the supfire m6 and they showed up today. All 3 were xm-l2 leds. “Good Lord this thing is bright”. I’ve owned quite a few sky ray kings in the past and they were never this bright. The m6 definitely comes out on top with its brightness. Has a decent amount of throw compared to sky ray king. The machining is above avg, just a little sharp edge near the front knurling. They could of done better on the grade of anodizing, I’m an anodizing snob and this reminds me of semi gloss black paint. I’ve seen other lights for a lot less $ that had nice flat anodizing.
it is definitely a hefty light. I don’t mind the weight but they could of slimmed it down a tad and made it a little less bulky. The button modes are awful, all they had to do is hide strobe and sos to make it somewhat tolerable.
Received my m6 today.
Don’t know if it’s xm-l or xm-l2
It seems real solid and what an impressive amount of light.
Only sad part is that wallbuys put the real value on the package.
Not many sellers do this and did not expect this.
Result is I had to pay around 25$ in administration fee and taxes, had I known this I would not have bought it.
But it happened, not much I can do about it anymore and the light is impressive.
Got mine, XM-Ls.
It was opened by Customs, probably because it went via Swiss Post.
Wallbuys put “Value = $42 USD” on the parcel, which does not affect us here,
as the Duty threshold is $1000 in Australia.
It would take 1,400 per LED to get 4,200, which I'm guessing is about 4.2-4.5A with XM-L2 U2 1A's.
This is getting really old…
