Congrats… 
but what do you mean by little box? If you meant the capacitor, no, it should stay where it is otherwise your light becomes one mode only (always High).
If you short the cap out, it also will stay always High.
For soldering, I just melt some solder on the iron tip and “dip” the resistor/capacitor end for 3 seconds or so. This method works on small components.
As surface mount parts go these days, that one is rather large!
Yes the capacitor, my vocabulary on these electronic components is rather limited :).
So I just connect the ends of the resistor on the 2 sides where the capacitor is attached to the driver?
I see my friend who has some resistors next week, so then I shall give it a try, this light really deserves ‘no’ memory
This might be more what i’m looking for, a high and low mode.`
These drivers are 17mm while the one in the zoomie is 19mm, that might be a problem.
I have the same light, really like the light, but also dislike the goofy 5 mode and the next mode memory. I’m a newb but others on the thread are trying to mod and help me in my quest to do so. I want a 3 mode, that always comes on in Lo. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/15002
Just look above your post. It is exactly what I said. 
Marc.
oh sorry, must have only read ‘direct drive’ and assumed it was a 1 mode, i’m sorry
still the 17mm vs 19mm would be problematic i think
No problem. It may well be a problem being only 17mm. I have just ordered one for the same reason.
Marc.
i’ll try to add a resistor first, if that fails i’ll look forward to your result
Hahaha, nice work, I almost regret I bought them as gifts and have already passed them away 
I got one today, and it is indeed a nice light. For 6$ I am happy.
But it’s a lot bigger than a sk98, because of the 3xAAA compatibility it’s thicker too.
But it focuses better than the sk98, zoomed in die projection is half as big.
I will add resistor later.
Who said the heatsink was superior?
No heatsink at all…never seen so bad connection, it’s just 1mm contact.
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I added a 120k Ohm resistor.
Thanks for this tip, now I have a nice no memory light.
I ordered four and three have a solid pill, the other was just like yours. You lost the heatsink roulette game 
I took one of mine apart and it was hollow. Will have to check out the other now didnt know that some had a reagular pill!
I am starting to like this light! If my other one has a solid pill then i will be modding it, if not then i guess that will have to find something to fill the hole up.
The result is what’s important, even with the hollow pill, heatsinking is not bad. Mine is hollow pill too, but running ceiling bounce for five minutes does not drop the lux too much.
I’m not converting to lumens as this result is not calibrated, but it begins with 25 lux, dropping slowly, and ended with around 23. That’s about 8% drop.
Compare that to a (tightly wrapped) P60 - 40 lux in the beginning and a bit under 30 in the end. Over 25% drop.
So the retaining ring seem to do its part pushing the bare alum-alum connection, until it conducts heat quite well.
100k resistor resets the memory intstantly…Now the capacitor has fallen off so i guess i leave the light 1 mode :). Looking forward to the result with the 17mm fasttech high/low mode driver but i’m afraid that one will just fall into the pill.
120k works fine for me. I can switch modes by half press but if I switch it off and on again it starts in high.
is the resistor added to the 2 points the capacitor is connected to or is the resistor just on top of the cap?
That’s the same.
Look at my picture above.
The resistor is on top of the capacitor. It “shorts” the cap so that it discharges and resets the controller.
capacitor went airborne, modding is not for me