Those clickies are not available any more so got this - http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1090
Also got this LED for my tk40- Loading...
and this one for my lumintop td15x(mine current one is NW)- http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1771
Diameter:20mm is this correct? dont have access to my tk40 right now
You're going to love it here, andrew_canada!
Andrew , wlecome to blf 
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-the xml you got is awesome . extreme cool white :). I tend to go more towards neutral.
-if your driver is ok then you dont have to change switch ! ( i screwed up my tk40 driver , and thats the reason i had to change switch since i cudnt find a 3 wire driver that works coa electronic switch .
And yes the diameter of the star on the tk40 is 20mm . Warning . Make sure to place the place insulation since the aluminum refelctor base makes direct contact with the top of the led or buy this Insulation Spacer for T6 Emitter
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i placed the old mce star below the xml star ( thermal paste a must)
reason is since the xml isnt the same height as the mce , it stays way low inside reflector even with the head fully tightened
Im not sure what’s broken, flashlight still has all its modes, run time is still about 2 hours on Turbo…But Turbo looks like Low, even my TK15 on Medium is brighter then my TK40 on Turbo.
Just measured resistance of TD15x, TK35 and TK40, all working lights read some steady number in M ohm, TK40 reading always floating and in low K ohm’s so something is shot in there.
How come these new LED’s take 2.9V~3.5V??? TK40 is giving out about 6 volts, will that be a problem?
the voltage is steped down!!! All 6 volts from the battery carrier will blow the led
*the maximum drive current: of the MCE is
700 mA per LeD die (3.5 volts) giving 750 lumens
*maximum drive current : of the XML you bought is 3 amps
At 3.1 volts giving 1000 lumens
that tk40 driver wont drive the xml well enough . Youl have to change it if you want 800 to 900 lumens output
:~ Got all the parts for my tk40…Still cant take the head apart, tried everything already, broke a few wrench straps, tried heating it with heat gun to help the glue get unstuck. Almost giving up, already…Tried some heavy-duty equipment at work, vice and huge wrenches, there’s no grip on the driver side so all that i get is adding scratches and damage to the head…
I think the cute chinese assembly girl droped too much thread lock in your light
take yo time bro . try not to damage the light
place a thick rubber around and then tighten in vice . Place another piece rubber and place pipe wrench . Turn anti clockwise . it opens at the 3rd cooling fin from top
i also have 2 of these GrooveLock Pliers .great for opening flashlights
It sounds like the MC-E itself is the problem andrew, so if you do not want to also replace the driver circuit and switch you won’t be able to use a normal XM-L as the voltage input for it should lower than what the last LED needed and so what the circuit puts out.
You might want to look into replacing with an XM-L EZW with 6v input, then you can keep the driver circuit and switch the same.
You could go all out like shaquille’s mod which turned out great in the end, but it would require significantly more effort and parts, and more risk of going wrong.