You don't want any pressure on the die dome, including the flat portion on at the bottom. The MT-G2 does not give you a clean dedome that way and it always takes some phosphor with it.
My test MT-G2 is one that I accidentally dedomed like that.
Lol as is mine, tho I’ve been a little to hard on it and now don’t run it <5A (it’s got a huge burned spot on the die).
What I did (in a Shadow tc300 mod) is cutting the thin layer of silicon around the dome away and replace it with a cardboard ring (I needed the cardboard to electrically insulate the led from the reflector). That way no pressure is leftover on the silicone. It runs at 8A (for short runs, it gets bloody hot fast) without damage.
^ Nice idea.
We really need a couple MT-G2 isolators to become available.
But if it’s a plastic reflector, no isolation is required.
You think I am crazy but the truth is that the reflector has melted.
eebowler wrote:
But if it’s a plastic reflector, no isolation is required.
Hi eebowler. In this case an isolater could be useful to keep the reflector from putting physical stress on the silicone dome (dome material extends out over the whole emitter die). But also, most plastic reflectors have a metalized finish that does conduct electricity. Of course, it could be sanded off the back of the reflector.
Oh man. Zeremefico, your TK61 reflecter has been melted? Man, that totally sucks. Can you drill out the damaged area and just have a bigger emitter hole? Still totally sucks, but may be all you can do at this point.
I believe the damage is not big.
When I return home, I will have the full picture.
OP updated with some melted reflector images
That's not too bad, I think you can salvage it. Just enlarge the hole so that it clears the entire die (using extreme caution!)
I need a lathe for that 
Just to drill or enlarge a small hole in plastic? No, you don't. You can use a bridge reamer, drill bit, or some careful and deliberate freehand with a rotary tool. The main thing is to not get the plastic you are working too hot so that it distorts or melts onto the reflective coating.
I use a 90 degree chamfering (countersink) bit at slow rpm in a drill press or handrill to enlarge hole’s in aluminum reflectors, and it works better than anything else, it won’t grab and chatter, and it leaves a nice beveled, burr free edge. Use the full body bit. not the multiple tooth bits.
So far, the best approach for me is to use drill bits, but no drill. I step up one size at a time and just drill out the hole by turning the bits by hand. It actually goes pretty fast for both aluminum and plastic reflectors. I just use normal low cost bits that come in sets that range from like 1/8" up to 1/2" (12.7 mm). A half inch will just clear all 4 corners of an MT-G2.
The smaller the step up in drill bit size the better.
I like that approach IM4w, I’ll give that a shot next time. Currently I’m using diamond files to do it by hand, gotten pretty good keeping the hole in round.
Diamond files will yield the finest quality result if you are good at keeping a true circle and are more patient. Less risk of chipping the finish. Your approach, C_K, is what I consider a mark of a fine craftsman.
When this light come out I commented plastic reflector, wasn’t too happy about it considering the price. People said: don’t worry it’s Fenix, they know what they are doing, if it is plastic it’s the best plastic money can buy. Obviously this design is not meant for using with some new stronger lights…
Ceramic’s is far Superior to any diamond when it comes to finish on alloys. We use ceramic inserts cooled/lubricated by liquid nitrogen to produce the best finish in aluminum on our CNC’s. We use PCD (diamond)inserts for roughing. Pushing a file results pushing the vapor coating away from the aluminum or plastic. Cutting it and them spinning a ceramic stone thru the hole results in micro smooth finish with out chipping, and can be done more precise and in minutes not hours. But then I have the equipment to do it.