Can you get a picture of you holding it, just want to be able to get a reference on size and how it is to use it.
I just drag-and-drop from Photobucket, no problems here.
Nice pics, ILIKE !
Give me about 5 min.
No rush, do it at your convenience, just pure curiosity on my part, no real need to see it.
Thanks to my wife for the photo.
Big but not as big as I expected it to be in hand, still not particularly pocketable ;)
Yea it's not small. It's right at 16" in length with the extension tube added to take 4 d cell batteries like shown in the picture above.
Post the "Direct Link" in photobucket in the first line of the "Tree" icon's window and you can post 5 images or more per post.
Speaking of images, I love beamshots but you have got to take control of your camera's shutter speed if you want your photos to give an accurate comparison between flashlights. The camera-on Auto-will compensate for a dim image by staying open longer and forcing an image that is brighter than it should be. The human eye sees flashlight beams more like 1/3 or 1/2 second exposures, not 1.1" to 3.0 seconds, which is what your camera used for those images. That is a LONG exposure!
Example.
Regular image is 2xAA Caveman at 1/2", mouseover is at 1.6" second.
The 1/2 second exposure is what it looks like in my backyard to my eyes.
And this is the Caveman AA light at 2.5 second exposure (your 350yard image was shot at 2.5"). What you see here is actually what your eyes would see if you were looking at this tree and using my TK41, not the Caveman.
Same light, same setting, same camera. But brightness is all over the board depending on what the computer chip in the camera thinks you want to see.
BTW, the really weird part is that your camera used 1/4 second shutter time for the "Control Shot", go figure.
ILF,
Want some belt clip? 
(Dong's belt clip)
Thanks for posting these pics. I'd also agree that, while still incredibly large for my uses, the TK70 doesn't look ridiculously large.
You have got a point there.
But sadly, on most compact cameras you can't manually control shutter speed and aperture, instead you have to rely on predefined programs.
I've got the same problem. Making a good beamshot is a task, making consistent beamshots almost impossible.
Well again I post them all on the same setting. On manual, out at farther distances with my camera I have yet to find a setting that does the flashlight justice. I'm not a professional photographer, nor do I care to be one. And I don't have a camera that I call a super serious one like some may have here. So take it for a what its worth to you. If you don't like looking at my photos, then shop elsewhere. I have told you that before. And here we are again shoppers.
Rather than just say anything positive like nice light, or not say nothing at all, you have to make a wreck again of my thread.
What gives?
This is exactly why I told Rick that I don't like posting photos here because of the photo pros that try to analyze too dang much.
Now no more replies are needed. Thanks in advance.
Could one put their camera card in the printer and run the photo thru the computer and then drop it in the post? I have never really had a need to post pics but would like to know the easiest way. Don"t really want to fool with photo bucket if i don"t need too. I would like to be able to post pics. Any pointers would be welcome. Thanks. Again, nice pics!
Keith (who is low-tech red neck)
Nice, can’t wait for mine to get here.
What D cell TENERGY would you suggest? Blue cell or white premium? Both 10.000 NIMH
Hey Brad!! :) I thought your pictures turned out great don't worry about it...
Just use tinypic. It works great, is simple and you don't have to register. It just has to be hosted on the internet somewhere.
I have used both blue and white. On my Turnigy Accucel-8 the ”White Premium” average 10400ma capacity. Blue have never exceeded 9500ma and usually less some @ 8000ma. Direct Drive they are about equal with a full charge on an amp pull. If you are buying new from BJ or All-Star buy the White premium as they are worth the extra Penny. Marrsinc on Ebay was selling blue Ds 8@$25 delivered (US only).
"I post them all on the same setting" No, you set the camera on Automatic or NightMode. It chooses whatever setting it thinks is correct to make the image look like a daylight photo.
When you post a 3.5 second exposure and imply that is what the beam looks like in real life, that's just false advertising. I tried to be subtle once, I tried to be a little more direct this time. What you are posting is not reality, it is a digital lie.
Automatic settings on a camera are just not a fair comparison as to what different flashlight beams look like. Cameras will try to make candlelight look like daylight if you let them. I understand that you aren't a professional photographer, but anyone looking at your photos on the web can run the EXIF data with free browser tools and see the settings. You do have manual controls on the Fuji you use, I recommend you read the owners manual.
This is what the EXIF data shows in your "bright tank" photo. This data is posted on the Internet, imbedded in your photo
EXIF IFD0
Camera Make = FUJIFILM
Camera Model = FinePix S8000fd
Picture Orientation = normal (1)
X-Resolution = 72/1 ===> 72
Y-Resolution = 72/1 ===> 72
X/Y-Resolution Unit = inch (2)
Software / Firmware Version = Digital Camera FinePix S8000fd Ver1.01
Last Modified Date/Time = 2012:05:22 21:24:49
Y/Cb/Cr Positioning (Subsampling) = centered / center of pixel array (1)
Copyright Owner =
Custom Rendered = normal process (0)
Exposure Mode = auto exposure (0)
White Balance = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type = night scene (3)
Sharpness = normal (0)
Subject Distance Range = unknown (0)
Print Image Matching = PrintIM
version = 0250
EXIF Sub IFD
Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 3/1 second ===> 3 second
Lens F-Number / F-Stop = 4/1 ===> ƒ/4
Exposure Program = landscape mode (8)
ISO Speed Ratings = 200
EXIF Version = 0220
Original Date/Time = 2012:05:22 21:24:49
Digitization Date/Time = 2012:05:22 21:24:49
Components Configuration = 0x01,0x02,0x03,0x00 / YCbCr
Shutter Speed Value (APEX) = -14321/9641
Shutter Speed (Exposure Time) = 1/0.36 second
Aperture Value (APEX) = 4/1
Aperture = ƒ/4
Brightness (APEX) = -39/10
Brightness = 0.07 foot-lambert
Exposure Bias (EV) = 0/1 ===> 0
Max Aperture Value (APEX) = 24361/8200 ===> 2.97
Max Aperture = ƒ/2.8
Metering Mode = pattern / multi-segment (5)
Light Source / White Balance = unknown (0)
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 19/1 mm ===> 19 mm
FlashPix Version = 0100
Colour Space = sRGB (1)
Image Width = 640 pixels
Image Height = 480 pixels
Focal Plane X-Resolution = 2801/1 ===> 2801
Focal Plane Y-Resolution = 2801/1 ===> 2801
Focal Plane X/Y-Resolution Unit = centimeter (3)
Image Sensing Method = one-chip color area sensor (2)
Image Source = 0x03,0x00,0x00,0x00
Scene Type = directly photographed image
EXIF IFD1
Compression = JPEG compression (6)
Picture Orientation = normal (1)
X-Resolution = 72/1 ===> 72
Y-Resolution = 72/1 ===> 72
X/Y-Resolution Unit = inch (2)
At 3 seconds, I can make moonlight look like broad daylight.
That is some serious light! Not overly big for what it does (I suppose it has wicked runtime with those batteries)
And dont worry about the pics, they're fine. So they are not perfect. So what. This is a flashlight forum and not a photography forum.
I like them so keem em coming ILF :-)
Because when you post a “control shot”, that makes it appear that the images are legit and you know your way around a camera. When the actual images are shot differently than the control shot by an exponential factor (24 times longer shutter speed is HUGE in photographic terms) it can be misleading.
"Control Shot" EXIF data
EXIF Sub IFD
Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 1/4 second ===> 0.25 second
Lens F-Number / F-Stop = 4/1 ===> ƒ/4
Exposure Program = manual control (1)
ISO Speed Ratings = 200
EXIF Version = 0220
Original Date/Time = 2012:05:22 21:19:11
Digitization Date/Time = 2012:05:22 21:19:11
Components Configuration = 0x01,0x02,0x03,0x00 / YCbCr
Shutter Speed Value (APEX) = 2/1
Shutter Speed (Exposure Time) = 1/4 second
Aperture Value (APEX) = 4/1
Aperture = ƒ/4
Brightness (APEX) = -9/10
Brightness = 0.54 foot-lambert
Exposure Bias (EV) = 0/1 ===> 0
Max Aperture Value (APEX) = 24361/8200 ===> 2.97
Max Aperture = ƒ/2.8
Metering Mode = pattern / multi-segment (5)
Light Source / White Balance = unknown (0)
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 91/5 mm ===> 18.2 mm
FlashPix Version = 0100
Colour Space = sRGB (1)
Image Width = 640 pixels
Image Height = 480 pixels
Focal Plane X-Resolution = 2801/1 ===> 2801
Focal Plane Y-Resolution = 2801/1 ===> 2801
Focal Plane X/Y-Resolution Unit = centimeter (3)
Image Sensing Method = one-chip color area sensor (2)
Image Source = 0x03,0x00,0x00,0x00
Scene Type = directly photographed image
OK, I'll stop now. Nothing against ILF personally, I like his posts and his choice in torches. My concern is folks searching the net for info and think that if they buy a torch like that, it will look that way when they turn it on.