Hey, guyz, found these leads @eBay. I have sent an email to seller and he told me that the core is copper.
What else did you think the core would be?
They look very much like the leads I’m, currently using.
Well, for 3 bucks a pair… anything but copper :bigsmile:
And? Are they good? 
Well, I’m still not getting the current readings I want from my 2010, but they seem to be working better than the stock DMM leads. No way to compare with even better leads yet. 
SashiX -
TrustFire flame 2400mAh: 3.0 amps (charged to 4.19 volts)
This battery is the only flame I have left and it has been cycled more than all my other batteries so, may not be a great representative of the brand.
Foy
Just now -
Solarforce 2600mAh charged to 4.15v- 2.9A.
TFF v3 3000mAh at 4.22v - 2.8A.
Humph.
Lol, fair enough. I assumed all were copper cable but must admit I never really thought about it before. Why don’t you just buy the banana plugs and make your own with thicker cable, it’s pretty simple and prob give the best results. You could use house hold wire I guess, maybe the lead off of a high power appliance…
I always get high readings with the DD Trustfire flames 18650 ( you know the ones with invisible protection)
#$@%!!! My HD2010 is DEAD! Popped in 3 different cells (all above 4.14v), click the switch and NOTHING! Argh! The light was working last I knew! Last thing I did was put packing tape on the backside of the reflector to protect from shorts on the LED leads. Then it just sat for weeks untouched. Seems the LED is blown. The LED looks normal, no discoloring at all. When I put a battery in with the switch on and measure voltage across the wires attached to the star I am getting 4.15v. When I turn the switch off I get 0.00v like I expect. This does indicate the LED is bad/blown, right? Shouldn't the driver be sending lower voltage where I am measuring though? Or does the driver pass the full battery voltage to the LED? Oh, my driver was the "East-092" variety.
In any case, I was able to get some measurements on my protected 18650 TF Flame 2400mAh (from KD) with my 3 mode Manafont Ultrafire XM-L drop-in. Battery fully charged at 4.20v gives me 4.80A when pressing in on the driver spring a bit. My protected Tenergy 18650 2600mAh gives me 5.02A. Wish I could have gotten measurements in the HD2010 though!
Argh,
-Garry
Literally just finished sending Erik a request seconds ago for this exact setup! Although I am wondering whether or not to choose a T6 3C for "neutral white". I hear people like/prefer cool white for throwers.
-Garry
I’m on it (buying from online stores will be quite expensive for just a simple leads, so looks like the only way will be… buy all that stuff in local store 
)
I can not ever get reading that high on my MF TFF 3000mah batteries in anything (dont like them and wish I had spent the money on something else |( ) ! I get high readings off my SF blue and white, and the cgr18650ea panasonics unprotected are always the highest especially right off the charger.
Thanks, Foy 
Good result for old and abused batt 
apt -
It's nice to see I'm not the only one getting high current from Solarforce blues. For whatever reason, those original protected 18650's almost always read higher than every other cell I have. (except King Kongs)
Foy
I have some unprotected pink samsungs from a laptop battery that give amazing amp readings. I hit 5 amp once in my KD C8 and it scared me.
Watch some of that ebay crap, they might look nice and thick, but oftenn it’s thick plastic with very little copper