It is funy but I tryed old 18650s and there is no buzzes and flickers in 50% cases. fet mode consumption is 13A-16A i.e. all batteries have higher resistans than 50E. In one case there are buzzes and flickers on medium mode but no buzzes and flickers at max modes ~6A.
It looks like this is a bug in the design of the driver. Perhaps some kind of resonant phenomena.
Absolutely there is some ringing/feedback in the circuit, you can hear it if you listen closely at least on my model but only at certain power levels and batteries it seems.
Same! I had to use 40T and all flickering is gone.
I just tested my Nov-mu with 40t using my camera to film at all but the lowest two levels. Zero flickering and no pwm. Definitely constant current.
It is surely not PWM. It is noticeable trembling it makes using a flashlight almost impossible at some levels…
There is also disgusting ringing at different levels.
Its a “Lume” not “Lume1” . Completely different driver.
It have two 1210 size coils, 4 layers and probably 1.oz cooper PCB, and…
Not completely. They both don’t work well)
Small components but not out of specs, the TPS62480 has a 2.5mHz frequency allowing to use small inductances, it has 2 phases so each coils sees only half the current. They looks like 1008/2520 rather than 1210/3225, it is likely they are the same or very similar to the one tested in the datasheet : DFE252012P-R47M
Rated for 4A and Isat(~25%) = 5.7A , max DCR = 27mΩ : should be adequate.
But now that you mention it AEDe, my E12R also loudly buzzed and heavily flickered when plugged to my bench PSU, I thought it was due to my (switching) PSU, but maybe not actually, perhaps the feedback loop has stability issues.
It seems faulty. We need Fireflies and Loneoceans explanation here. Keep us updated.
I also looked at the heating of the LEDs.
Possibly poor soldering or poorly seated mcpcb
6A
fet 18A
This is perhaps the most disgusting beeping flashlight I have ever seen.
It is very loud at 14-19KHz.
Can you share link to topic on Fonarevka?
Thank you!
I have two NOV-MU and a E07x (same driver) and they do this if I use a cell with a high internal resistance, like a 50E. It gets worse as the cell voltage drops. If I use a 40T or 50S, the flickering and buzzing stops.
Can confirm with the higher constant current outputs causing buzzing with 50e. 40t is fine however.
Has anybody measured the cri and duv of this light? The light quality of the 4500k version is so nice.
yep. here
I also just received the 2000k version of the NOV-MU and absolutely love it for night time use. Just got the T9R SBT90.2 also. Will measure them later when I have a chance.
Ah, thanks! That makes sense then. I found the light output to be very white and pleasant looking— definitely looked more like 4800-5000k than 4500k. It also looked neutral enough. Definitely not green, and definitely not as rosy as the SW45k.
2000k seems very nice as well, but I worry it might be a little too warm for my tastes. I would love a 3000k version.
4500k version for worklight fluorescent replacement
3000k version for nightlight halogen replacement
2000k version for candlelight/campfire replacement
One last thing: have you measured the cri, cct, and duv of the light with diffuser on?
+1
3000K would be a really good addition to the tint choices.
I would also welcome a flashlight with many E21A emitters with a moderately tight beam TIR optic (as it is an array, the optic could be selected from those optics made for COB emitters as well).
You can mix 4500k with 2000k to achieve a really nice 3000k!
I just tested top of ramp of NOV-MU with 4500k with difffuser on for you so you can compare it.
CCT 4176K
DUV –0.0003
CRI (Ra) 97.3
R9 95.9
R12 75.9
Rf 93
Rg 101
The 2000k is not too warm if you use it before bed time or for camping. Once your eyes adapt everything looks natural. It is the closest to candle light there is but candle light is even warmer.
Another important use case for the 2000K E21A: picking fruit during nighttime - it attracts much less insects, than higher CCT whites.