Can you share link to topic on Fonarevka?
Thank you!
I have two NOV-MU and a E07x (same driver) and they do this if I use a cell with a high internal resistance, like a 50E. It gets worse as the cell voltage drops. If I use a 40T or 50S, the flickering and buzzing stops.
Can confirm with the higher constant current outputs causing buzzing with 50e. 40t is fine however.
Has anybody measured the cri and duv of this light? The light quality of the 4500k version is so nice.
yep. here
I also just received the 2000k version of the NOV-MU and absolutely love it for night time use. Just got the T9R SBT90.2 also. Will measure them later when I have a chance.
Ah, thanks! That makes sense then. I found the light output to be very white and pleasant looking— definitely looked more like 4800-5000k than 4500k. It also looked neutral enough. Definitely not green, and definitely not as rosy as the SW45k.
2000k seems very nice as well, but I worry it might be a little too warm for my tastes. I would love a 3000k version.
4500k version for worklight fluorescent replacement
3000k version for nightlight halogen replacement
2000k version for candlelight/campfire replacement
One last thing: have you measured the cri, cct, and duv of the light with diffuser on?
+1
3000K would be a really good addition to the tint choices.
I would also welcome a flashlight with many E21A emitters with a moderately tight beam TIR optic (as it is an array, the optic could be selected from those optics made for COB emitters as well).
You can mix 4500k with 2000k to achieve a really nice 3000k!
I just tested top of ramp of NOV-MU with 4500k with difffuser on for you so you can compare it.
CCT 4176K
DUV –0.0003
CRI (Ra) 97.3
R9 95.9
R12 75.9
Rf 93
Rg 101
The 2000k is not too warm if you use it before bed time or for camping. Once your eyes adapt everything looks natural. It is the closest to candle light there is but candle light is even warmer.
Another important use case for the 2000K E21A: picking fruit during nighttime - it attracts much less insects, than higher CCT whites.
Thanks for the measurements with the diffuser cap on. It definitely felt like the diffuser took away some of the pinkness to the tint, but I didn’t know it got that much warmer.
I ordered a 2000k version too.
20A battery for good work at 3A it is nonsense.
It is funny that users silently put up with that in 80-100$ light…
Well, if you’ve already purchased the light you either use a compatible cell or throw the light in the trash. I think the former is a better solution.
It isn’t just warmer, the DUV rises a lot. It is merging the annoying high duv green halo with low duv “primary red center beam”
The green halo is annoying imo, and color is much improved overall, cri included, with the diffuser, at a cost of both lumens and lux
What? dont buy batts from fireflies, they are fakes that test bad…
10a high capacity batts work fine at 3a and to a lesser degree 6a,
You do not need a high amp battery, but they also work fine, just buy at a reputable seller in your country.
Genuine Samsung 50E cells (purchased from a reputable US based seller) do not work correctly in any of my FF lights with the Loneoceans driver. They flicker at high current and exhibit audible buzzing/whine. 40T and 50S cells work fine.
Unless you have an outlier, I think you’re exaggerating the green halo a little bit. Yes, the output seems a little greener near the edges of the beam, but the transition is so soft and subtle, especially since the output also tapers off near the edges. It’s really only noticeable on a large, flat, and single colored surface. It’s definitely not something to the effect of a Cree green corona for instance.
Have you tried playing with frosted glass lenses or diffuser film? It would ruin the cool look of the E21A gridded away though. 
I don’t know about that, I use molicel, as on paper they are better than scamsung and i dislike samsung ethically as a company across all their products and copywrongs…
though i admittedly don’t have the 5000mah molicel, because they weren’t available when I bought both batches
w/e it is sounds like an issue with the driver design, or the components used, and frankly, I never heard of audible oscillation causing longevity issues, just annoyance! I’ve had PSUs that oscillate, but they never died. the fan noise was higher, so I just ignored it.
As to film, no, it seems like the output would cause issues. frosting the glass is something i will be willing to try, with pl47g3 if i can get them to send a spare, maybe they will send a spare for my nov-mu to frost too.
Either way, the halo is part of the emitter and having it seperated arguably decreases the quality. no, it is not an outlier, I just notice and have testing gear. I don’t like oversaturated or not-neutral beams, but I don’t bother with the diffuser because the intensity is way too low (and it causes blindness from contraction)
I’m not as worried about the noise as I am the flickering. It’s pretty significant, like it’s on candle mode. Luckily a cell swap is an easy fix.
I am curious about your claim that fireflies sells fake batteries? Do you have any examples that demonstrate that?