Now we just need to convert that table into the normal percentages.
The real percentages are a bit pointless, because they can vary greatly from LED to LED (219B, XP-L HI, …) and from light to light. This is because the 100% output of the light is purely driven by FET, and that number is not stable at all.
How is the average person going to relate? Most folks are not going to understand your chart. That’s all I’m saying.
The best way is simply measure the lumen numbers of each mode in each mode-set and then create separate tables, for each LED versions. This is what should be done by the manufacturer.
Thanks a lot! Nice to see that every mode set actually has the 7135 100% modes included. Also quite interesting that one of them (#3) only has the 6x7135 while all the other are 7x7135. Also the mode set #7 level 6. Are you sure it’s 0|100|39.2 and not 100|100|39.2?
Exactly. The definition from Lexel:
// 3 modes (7135-7135s-max) ~10% ~50% max
PROGMEM const byte mode7135Set3 = { 255, 0, 0};
PROGMEM const byte mode7135sSet3 ={ 0, 255, 0};
PROGMEM const byte modeFetSet3 = { 0, 0, 255};
// 7 modes (0.5-2.5-5-10-25-50-max) ~0.4% ~2% ~8% ~20% ~50% ~80% max
PROGMEM const byte mode7135Set7 = { 8, 200, 255, 255, 255, 0, 0};
PROGMEM const byte mode7135sSet7 ={ 0, 0, 40, 120, 255, 255, 0};
PROGMEM const byte modeFetSet7 = { 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 100, 255};
Here you can find all of them.
Well can’t argue with the source, thanks!
Nice table.
So it’s possible to also get No PWM from 7135x6 (100%).
I would presume the 7135x6(100) will also have a nice output, just a tad lower than the 7135x7(100).
If one wants to cycle through all NoPWM modes, then that would have to be 7135x1(100) - 7135x6(100) - 7135x7(100) - FET (100%), although the visible difference between 7135x6(100) and 7135x7(100%) might not be that noticeable.
Mode-set #7 has the most (7) brightness levels — is this supposed to match the “BLF A6” 7-evenly-spaced-brightness-levels ?
I converted toobadorz table into the following (actually, the following I did may not necessarily be more easy to read…)
Mode-set
- : FET (100%)
- : 7135x1 (100) - FET (100)
- : 7135x1 (100) - 7135x6 (100) - FET (100%)
- : 7135x1 (9.8) - 7135x1 (100) - 7135x7 (100) - FET (100)
- : 7135x1 (9.8) - 7135x1 (39.2) - 7135x7 (100) - FET (100)
- : 7135x1 (6.7) - 7135x1 (31.4) - 7135x1 (100) - [7135x1(100)+7135x6(39.2)] - 7135x7 (100) - FET (100%)
- : 7135x1 (3.1) - 7135x1 (78.4) - [7135x1(100)+7135x6(15.7)] - [7135x1(100)+7135x6(47.1)] - 7135x7 (100) - [7135x6(100)+FET (39.2%)] - FET (100%)
- : 7135x7 (100) - FET (100)
No “muggle mode” mode-set? (eg. where the max level is say 7135x6(100) or 7135x7(100) 
That 7135x6 (100) mode is ~600 lumens. It may be useful when you feel the light can be too hot to be held at 7135x7 (100)
And, one important thing to be aware of: though only 8 mode-sets are available, the firmware still accepts an input value between 9~12. But if you give this the result can be unpredictable, since this can trigger a memory read from an unknown block.
Has anybody a Maukka calibrated lumintube. and Hi Version of the ROT66?
And can you measure Modeset 3?
It’s (moon) — max7135 — max7135s — FET
And which LEDs you have:
XPL Hi V3 1A Cool White
XPL Hi V3 3A 5000K Neutral White
XPL HI U6 5B 4000K
Thank you
This request will like take a while to compile… I suppose no one tried ordering all the different configurations of the ROT66, but it would be nice to also see the beamshots (and tint differences) of the ROT66 219B and those 3 different XPL-Hi tints…
Even if someone has all those ROT66 variants, the lumen numbers measured may still be a bit far from the one you really get. I’m saying so because on my XP-L HI 3A V3 ROT66, the LEDs are also crushed like Vinh described at CPF . And after removing some of the obvious white fragments on the LED the numbers I got were indeed improved.
So don’t expect you can get one with similar lumen numbers as reported by other people.
I see… so that’s why sales of the ROT66 XPL-Hi have been suspended for the meantime. Hoping they’ll be able to fix the issues with XPL-Hi soon.
So they traced the problem to be with the XPL HI version. That makes a little sense considering the ones Vinh and toobadorz were XPL HI, and the ones the reviewers got that were fine were Nichias. That gives me a little more ease while waiting for my Nichia version to come in. Still though, aren’t those emitters very similar size? They have domes on them so I would think they’d be even easier to crush.
The xpl-hi emitters have a taller base, the white part of the LED, then the Nichia emitters. I believe the xpl-hi are 1mm tall and the 219C are 0.4mm tall.
The 3 legs built into the TIR lens is what’s supposed to prevent the lens from crushing the emitters. I guess they drilled the holes in the mcpcb too deep.
I was thinking about ordering this flashligh. I need a replacement for my Nitecore TM06.
But with this light ive seen and heard of some quality problems… So im not sure…
It stands between three flashlights, what do you guys think? in need of some input thanks guys :+1: 
Its either this flashlight(ROT66), Emisar D4S, or Noctigon Meteor M43.
I have the D4S and M43 and ROT66 on order since the first day it was announced :weary:
The M43 is a very nice light and the XPG3 measures 1,000 lumens brighter than the XP-L HI version. I am very impressed with the premium quality of the light. However, due to the size, it’s not convenient to EDC for my work, so I stopped using it. I just got the D4S and it is a beautiful light. The auxiliary leds are absolutely brilliant. I love the light. I say it is a must get for all Flashlight enthusiasts. The ROT66 is the first and last flashlight to use the discontinued 219b 9080 emitters, which is considered to have the best looking tint by HI CRI folks. You can get this and use it as a benchmark to compare with all your other lights. It also has a Lexel designed driver, which is better than the other two flashlights. Also the 3x18650 size should make it much more pocket friendly yet still have very good runtime to be practicable. It is also brighter than the D4S and brighter than the M43 with the same emitter due to the better driver. I bought two for myself since this will definitely be a collector’s item when it gets discontinued.
Thank you very much for your input.
Im not going to EDC this one though. This light is going to be used when walking our dog. So the size of the m43 for example, is not a problem since im going to have it in my jacket.
I do REALLY like high CRI flashlights though… i have a D4 with 219c 5000k 90cri, which i love the tint of…
Maybe if i order the ROT66 with 219B, and test it out. If i dont like it, i’ll order a M43 maybe?
Pretty good breakdown. As an owner of an M43, I can admit that due to its size and 4 cells, I don’t use it as much as my more practical single cell lights.
I would have to say that brighter does not equate to a better driver. The Lexel driver I am sure is great, but it’s a linear/Fet driver that is not nearly as efficient as the boost driver in the M43. The lexel driver is brighter only because it pushes the LEDs harder using FET and pwm.
My view is in no particular order:
-M43 for best efficiency and runtime
-ROT66 for best tint and CRI.
-D4S for balance of price, size and single cell.
Am I the only one who thinks that this light looks kinda cheap with the silvery tail?
Also, for 98$ there should be a screw-in plug for the thread.