I’m not too well informed about how batteries work so that should explain why what you said confused me. The Moli has a higher max output of 45A, if it can’t do that upfront and beat a lower maxxed 40T, then when will it ever put out the 45A? Does that mean the Moli’s specs are overblown or do I just not understand how they are supposed to work in the real world? Thank you again for this info
The extra power of the 40T seems very small, and only present at very high amp draws, at least according to HKJ’s testing. Here’s the P42A vs 40T at 5 and 15 amps. But yes, the E12R will draw enough power on turbo to have a slight difference at turn on. Credit to HKJ.
Yes Moli’s specs is overexaggerated. Take a look at the graph posted above. You can see the 40T does better in the beginning. Though the curve is 5A and 15A. At higher amps, the difference should be even more significant. I can’t remember exactly what the difference was between the 40T and P42A when fully charged but it was considerable. Maybe up to 5-10% lumen output difference in the E07 XPLHI. The difference should be more fore the E12R which has more emitters. Though in reality you really can’t tell the difference. If you want the best 21700 battery, I recommend getting the Vapcell T50 which is the Samsung 50T. It’s a much more practical cell than anything else on the market.
I really love my E12R LH351D 5700k sand. I agree with @Lojik above that the feel in the hand of this light is amazing, it’s really compact, has a nice grippy texture, the weight distribution is great and there is a little flat spot on the bezel on the opposite side from the power button that sits perfectly on your index finger. Basically it’s never going to accidentally slip out of your hand. Speaking of the power button I really like it, it feels very high quality compared to the button on my FT02s. Obviously the E12R is all flood but for walking the dog it’s my go to light now. I recently bought the FT02s XHP50.2, T9R 90.2 and the T12R and I have to say this one is my favourite. I kind of wish the T9R had the same texture as the T12R, seems odd they are different considering they were basically developed at the same time.
Do someone have checked it?
Hi, mine is arrived yesterday 
Is a very beautiful flashlight with powerful interface, is not intuitive but for tons of function is normal in my opinion…
Magnet in tail is strong
Desert body color is awesome
Aux led are gorgeous (I hope in future with software TOY add some function)
but…
Why in level 1 and 2 there is flickering? 
This is 100 dollar flashlight. In FW3A there isn’t flicker in moon mode… and is a 30 dollar flashlight… argh
Maybe I hope this problem will be is solved quickly
Cheers from enthusiast user
On the FW series there are 2 constant curent channels, one for high/mid power (7?x7135) and one for low power (1x7135), dimming the mid power channel with 8 bit PWM (1:255) would only get down to an equivalent of around 10mA~3lm, but by dimming the low power channel we can get down to 350mA/255 = 1.4mA~0.5lm. This is an easy way to get low levels because adding a 7135 based channel is trivial, but as we know they are not very efficient.
With the E12R 6A buck driver it is more complicated to add another channel (can’t use a 7135), a small high side linear current source could be used but I don’t think they are common, adding another small power buck led driver (with high side sensing) could be done maybe if a suitable part exists, board space could be an issue, I’m not sure this is would be a good solution.
So here dimming is done on one channel only, this time with 10bit (1:1023) in order to get more resolution and lower minimum : 6A/1023 ~ 6mA~2lm. The problem that arises with a higher resoltion dimming is that the voltage sensed across the current sense resistor becomes very low, let’s say the sense voltage is 60mV at 6A (with a 10mΩ sense resistor), it gets reduced to ~60μV at the minimum level, at this point there might be noise which affect the stability of the current control loop, component variation probably affect this and we get an output that flickers more or less (without taking into account perception variation between people).
One good solution I think is using a bigger sense resistor (= bigger sense voltage) only for low current (we can’t use a big resistor for high current due to power waste), this is what I’ve implemented in the drivers I’m developping, Loneoceans used this too in the LumeX1 driver. I opened a Zebralight H600 II yesterday and they also used this solution (3 sense resistors actually) I would assume they use this on all their lights.
The E12R driver was developped by Loneoceans, I’m sure that if Fireflies want to have reliable (very) low levels, they can ask him for an updated design.
The Moli has a lower peak but is not the inferior cell.
A peak that short is effectively little more than fake news. The moli is the best on the market, it just won’t “hit” as hard on unregulated and FET devices
Best argument for Moli is they are willing to authorize loose sales, while the Shamesungs are likely from unauthorized parties which may be selling disassembled packs in who knows what condition - a recipe for fake batteries which we’ve been dealing with forever.
Sounds like a very biased opinion.
To play devil’s advocate I have heard the cycles/longevity (primarily vapers say this) and self discharge while sitting is higher on Moli (anecdotal but essentially the same as your arguement). What prevents fakes of molicel batteries?
Something something Sony/Murata VTC6A
TL;DR I have all 3 and they all perform well. Buy from a trusted place based on availability/price instead of anecdotes.
Biased how? Runtime reviews seem to support the moli being a good deal, even if the intial spike of power is weaker than something like a 40T.
Every reputable seller of the Moli batteries claims to be an authorized dealer, while Samsung and Sony literally want people to quit selling loose batteries…
Don’t get me wrong, I want a free market, but corpos and bought out legislators will never allow it. And by doing this crap, Samsung are unironically hurting consumers, just to “cover their own asses” because of unreasonable liability implications
If Moli are really authorizing them as dealers, they deserve suport for that alone. It cuts the chance of fakes.
If Moli/NPE get big enough i’m sure they will have the same gray market problem. This exists is so many products/sectors outside of batteries for tons of reasons.
Moli’s “authorized” dealer program was a shit show at the beginning at least as far as US vendors was concerned. It seems like the big few US vendors we buy from got that ironed out I guess?
This was interesting news from yesterday in regards to “free market”. I dont think liability is stopping anyone from selling direct if that is what you are implying. There is so much demand for lithium they can sell as much as they can make it seems like to me so why bother with small fish?
I have to study, thank you
You never seen how frivolous and ridiculous US judgments in civil courts are?
You completely missed all the cancel culture since ~2014? 18650s are wrongfully being attributed with dangers merely from association with unregulated vapes and pocket shorts, even though CR123 are just as dangerous and even Amazon sells its own brand of them after their 18650 ban.
Both scenarios are liabilities for manufacturers, and it’s unfortunate.
Anyway, my point stands, people have reported getting fakes from the popular reputable sellers. It can happen. Even big stores like Newegg and “sold by amazon” have had incidents of fake electronics. For me, I use Moli for my 21700’s, as the runtimes are not worse than Samsung’s, plus I have less worry (I’m a bit ocd with that stuff, and don’t buy any more chargers that can’t show accurate IR).
Not questioning a single thing you stated above, I don’t understand most of it tbh.
I just want to point out a few things and your numbers come in handy:
Nichia recommends operating the 219BT-V1 at a current greater than 10 % of the sorting current (I think that’s 700 mA, so 10 % would be 70 mA) to “stabilize the LED characteristics”.
I know, we normally don’t really care what manufacturers recommend, especially when it comes to maximum currents. We exceed them by factors of 2, 3, 4, 5… as long as it gets brighter.
Now, let’s take a closer look at these minimum ratings: 70 mA x 12 LEDs = 840 mA is what they’d recommend for this set-up, 6 mA is what we through at it. That’s 140 times lower than what Nichia says is fine to have stable LED characteristics. What do they mean with these characteristics? I don’t really know. Could it be related with the flickering? Do the non-Nichia versions have that “issue”? I don’t know. And by “what we through at it” I really meant us flashlight nerds, most of us.
We want the switching driver, we want the great efficiency, we want all modes pwm-free, we want to have moon modes so low that we can look into the dim glowing dies. But we complain when one emitter isn’t as bright as the other in the 0.5 lm mode or when one part of a XHP70.2 isn’t lit at 0.5 lm mode.
The fact is: these LEDs aren’t really meant for that.
I don’t need those super low modes. Do you? Maybe pwm isn’t such a bad thing after all. Adding another channel with low-current-LEDs? Would be even more efficient, but then you couldn’t look at the dim glowing dies of the main emitters. 
I wouldn’t want to pay extra dollars just to have the last box checked.
I just set my E12R so that the lowest mode is a little brighter than default but flicker-free and I’m super super happy with this light.
I have never seen an LED flicker when driven with a low current.
I think ”stabilize the LED characteristics” is more likely to refer to chromacity and maybe forward voltage.
I certainely don’t, and I dont really see people complain about it either, people who ask about this seem to always do so because the wonder if there is a issue with the LED.
Not so much on a flashlight this size, on smaller lights and headlamps yes. But the minimum of the E12R isn’t ”super low” and it should be free of flicker of course, the method I explained would solve that, even if there aren’t any super low modes.
Ultimately this is a Anduril light and and the minimum level is customisable so it’s fine to have super low mode even if some people don’t want them.
I tested flickering on my E12R and Nov-MU. The best way to test it is shine the light on a spinning fan. Some of my bad pwm flashlights will very obviously reveal itself. My new fireflies lights don’t show any flicker on all modes from moonlight to high so it should not be noticeable by the majority of the people. My eyes couldn’t detect any flickering but I’m not overly sensitive. Even some of my other flashlights that showed obvious flickering when tested with the fan, I did not notice any flickering visually.
Personally I would love to have a sublumen fireflies/moonlight mode because I use it often. The moonlight on the nov-mu is about 3 lumens. However
It’s more like a candle flicker (random) but faster, not like a fixed frequency flicker (e.g. from a slow PWM), so it’s not showing the stroboscopic effect. On mine it’s not very pronounced though.
Yes, I noticed when pulling one of mine at the end of a runtime test but before it shut off. It’s almost like it can’t decide between being 1 lumen and 1 1/2 lumens. Like you’ve said, it’s likely caused by that low of a sense voltage when the current is that low. Not a big deal in my book but if you use your light at the lowest of modes very frequently it might be more of an issue.
Part of the reason some people may not notice it is because the default floor is at Level 3 (config link). If you were to change the floor config to be Level 1, you might be more apt to notice it.
Actually I think I was on level 2, I must have not configured it correctly the first time. On level one the flickering is really obvious.
Thank you thefreeman for explain what happen
I think we don’t use E12R in moon mode full day but in small cases for read in the night it would be nice… now there is mini candle flicker party mode in level 1 
I hope they find a solution for future project
I have measure 0.45 uA from off and 6.2 mA in level 1