Thanks for all the input, guys. I'll wait a bit until driver issues are sorted...
Maybe you guys need the Uranus Fire WF801 at $22.48
This should throw.If your too embarrassed get it brother Uniquefire HS-801 at $24.99
ok last night i could not sleep and it stoped raining so i gave it a quick test at 0.44 amp draw it still could throw 200 odd meters (200 + yards) from my back patio across a couple of houses across the road and i could see i tight bright hot spot on a tree in the corner of the park.
because of the tight hot spot it looked like it out threw my TR-1200 and TR C8 and jetbeam BC40 but they all had much more spill.
i popped the driver out and on the inside its marked with TR-0011A i soldered it back in and gained a couple of mAh in current draw.
on friday or saterday ill take it to the farm where we have the trees marked out as my above distantance measurment is a guestermation, but i still think it will throw very well.
ive measured the screw in (pill) its 23.08 mm wide and 15.31 mm deep aprox and going from manafont the R2 LED Emitter Module for UniqueFire HS-801 thats this is a copy from is 23.55 mm wide and 15.17 mm deep aprox.
so if any one has already brought this light and is not happy with the driver that might be a cheap and easy fix easyer then swaping a driver and the R2 emmiters are close on papper to the Q5 maybe a tad better
i think they would be interchangible maybe a bit of sanding at the worse case but it would be dam close, but i suggest to double check every thing before buying one and normaly a little bit of solder can improve a driver and a torches performance even though some feel we souldnt have to even at budget prices (me).
i dont think i will mess with this one yet as it still seams like its going to throw very well (i think im learning throwing is not about max current and lumens) and i like the high and mid modes and it has one of the fastest flashy modes ive every seen im not sure if its becuase of the driver or the super deep reflector, but i normaly hate flashy modes i call them epo modes but this ones not to bad cause its so dam fast.
i think the torch is well made and has a sweet reflector (same as the hs-801) but it makes me wonder if i was not such a tight arse and spent a few more bucks and brought the UniqueFire HS-801 R2 as i had a couple buck worth of points in my manafont account from my last orders so it would of worked out cheaper then manafont seller them for, but ive seen them cheaper else where like the above link in the above post, but i think unique is ruffer the trustfire or i might of been unlucky in the past....
i got an email back from manafont they said they could not find any spec,s on the light or current draw, but asked me to test it and report back and they would look into it, but i think ill leave it and just use it for fun and make an reveiw on there site.
I guess we're back to my opening post then. Nice light, well build and a good buy if you're prepared to swap the driver for one of your own choice. That is to say. this light plus a good driver costs the same as other better driven HS-801 clones.
@ benckie
Remember - Driven at 1.4A that's getting on for 3.5x the current of yours presently. So if you slipped a 1.4A driver in it then it would throw getting on for twice as far. Worth thinking about. 
yes and no (not rying to be dificult) any more then 1 amp you will just be making heat imo with very little increase in light out put and the more and more i resurch lights im leaning to wards more current does not make them throw more light over a greater distance.
my playing around in the shed shows me a xm-l driven at 1 amp does not realy throw any less then a 1.5 amp driven xm-l to the human eye and a 3 amp xm-l has about the same throw as a 1.5 amp xm-l the only diffrence realy and it comes all comes down to is the reflectors and that 1,5 amp makes double the heat then a 1 amp xm-l and a 3 amp xm-l makes more then 4 times the heat for a tighter hot spot, this is to my eye a human eye not a light meter as im sure a light meter will pick up alot more of a diffrence.
i know we are talking about diffrent light,s emmiters and reflectors and i have a weird way of putting things but i dont think if you tripple the current your going to tripple the throw, but i know you will tripple + the heat build up and shorten the maxium run time of the torch and the life of the emiiter, once that emmiter heats up its going to drop in lumens very quickly so it might start of decent but it will all be down hill as the heat builds up.
say if yours will throw 400 yards on a dark good clear night doubling the out put imho will not double the distance to 800 yards i think its more about optic,s and reflector size and depth in away and im not convinced there has to be a driver swap realy not yet, with a quick test if i easly got 200 yards im thinking 300 will be easy, now if yours has more draw then mine (this also will depend on the batteries i also know if i wacked in some crap batteries i would have around 700 mAh + current draw) yours should throw more then that easy, i would like to do more range testing first.
there is no harm is wanting the best you can have and wanting to improve some thing, if you or any others want to swap drivers.
this would be a quick easy option
LED Emitter Module for UniqueFire HS-801
or a cheaper option if your handy with a soldering iron
any 17mm driver from any supplier would do but i wouldnt push the Q5 to hard an under driven light would run cooler and last longer then over driven light, the cheaper Q5 xr-e bin data sheets ive read are one amp max i dont think they used top self bins in this torch but it does have a nice tint.
or even this light could be a contender but ive never had a Q3
PALIGHT 8014A Q3 LED 5-Mode Memory 350-lumen LED Flashlight
i would like to do some range testing with no questermation before i say ya or na with the torch or about a driver upgrade.
Last things first, so to speak. The Palight you suggest, except that it may have a better driver, is no improvement over the USA168 is has the same size or slightly smaller reflector.
You are totally right that reflectors play a bigger role in throw than current. However, with the same reflector we are back to basic inverse square law. That is to say to double (i.e. x2) the throw you must increase the output four fold (i.e 22). So if you are even going to bother to boost current then it only makes sense if you are going to give it a very good increase.
As regards the XR-E's many many lights come standard at 1.2A, quite a few at 1.5A and its not that unusual to see 1.7A even. This light for example gives 1.7A and has nowhere near the heatsinking that the USA168 has. Truly 1.4A for an XR-E Q5 in a USA168 is if anything on the mild side and not extreme. An Ultrafire SS C3 Q5 at over 2A is extreme, see here. In the hefty USA168 body and with the pill mounted as it is heat will not be a problem in anyway at all at 1.4A.
Re that Manafont HS-801 pill you linked to, I'd be far from sure it would fit a USA168, especially when one has no idea of that module's thread pitch compared to the USA168's tube thread pitch. Anyway, why buy an emitter and driver when one only needs a $3-$4 driver.
As to why I'm doing it, well an HS-802 clone should walk all over an Ultrafire MCU-C88. However, my USA168 on high only just beats my stock MCU-C88 on medium and can't even live with the C88 when that's on high. Besides I've had enough of the USA168's stupid strobe that seems to be laughing its head off at me..............
........
The heat transfer is good in that flashlight?
I'm thinking that it might be a good option to put an XML U2 and 8 * 7135 driver...
Will not have far-reaching as XRE, but powerfull 900 lumens throw.
Any idea why not try? Thanks in advance.
i think it has to do with bins, batteries and how they are driven for your examples not to mention the makers. i have 5 x Q5 driver at 1.7 amps the reflectors is skiny and about 10 mm deep (x5) they are driven at 1.7 amp to 2 an depending on batteries and from what i can tell are wired in parrallel so each emmiter would be sharing the full amount but they are a wc bin the light will throw well over 300 meters.
but ever bin data sheet a read for the Q5 say 700 mAh to 1 amp max but ive found a couple that say 1.05 amp max.
here are some examples of 1 amp max
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/xlamp7090xr-e.pdf
http://www.ledrise.com/p1514/cree-led-mx6-q5-emitter-278lm-white/
http://www.eos-led.com/en/Cree-XLamp-XR-E-Q5-Cool-White.html
700 mAh max (0.7amp)
and read this discription of this 1400 mAh 17mm driver
i can find some more examples for you if you like but you can drive them at 2 amps if you want and they will work for short runs less led life but the date din sheets say 1 amp max for the ones ive read, i would go from the bin sheets and the led,s spec,s more then other budget light makers but thats just me.
thats why i recomended a 1100 mAh (1.1 amp) driver as you most likely would not get the full 1.1 amp and if you did by the time you take out some lose you would be driving the q5 at 1 amp or less.
ive just finshed a 12 hour shift and i have to get up early tomorow but i know i have some more q5 bin sheets stateing 1 amp max ill post them up for you if you like.
We a did range test last night with the TrustFire USA168 with 440 mAh (0.44 amp) current draw at the tail cap on a trustfire flames battery
250 meters (274 yards or 820 feet) of good usible throw with not much usible spill as this is a pencil beam torch.
300 meters (328 yards or 984 feet) of throw
yes i think it would be to as mine will do to 250 meters (274 yards or 820 feet) and will spot animal eyes thurther but it will depend on the gun, scope and the shooter.
one thing that i think about is recoil since there is no spring on the driver side recoil might give the driver a hammering but drivers are cheap and easy to replace if you can solder, but the tail cap side is spring loaded with a brash plunger so that should help a bit
i think the host (torch) would be good for heat ransfer, but the pill is very thin i noticed when i removed the driver in mine for a look and the pill is very light weight but becuase its alloy it will heat up very quickly but should transfer heat well and cool down quick.
on another note i have ordered the
LED Emitter Module for UniqueFire HS-801
to see if it fits since i linked it and to see if the pill and driver is any better.
i also ordered the
to have a play around
If the 801 pill doesn't fit and you're going to switch the driver in the USA168 anyway you might as well move the R2 star from the 801 module over to the USA168 at the same time. XR-E R2's put out about 7% more light than a XR-E Q5 does for the same current, IIRC.
Of course I'm assuming that the 801 module is an XR-E R2 being as its designed for a thrower. There is an XP-G R2 as well, which is often forgotten, it puts out more light but is far less throwy than the XR-E R2.
Please let us know if the 801 module fits. I plan an R2 switch later anyway for my USA168, after my 1.4A driver switch. That module may be a better route to the R2 because of its pill being brass rather than the standard alu one. I'll still put the 1.4A driver in it though. Almost all Sipik SK68's run their Q5's at 1.4A off a 14500 so the better heatsinking of the USA168 should have no problems with it whatsoever.
hs802 and hs801 pills are compatible and both were brass
this beast can take even and xm-l, the beam becomes broader and little bit less throwy, but far more useful
True. But is the Trustfire USA168 a perfect HS-802 clone? I'm not certain. The USA168 pill certainly has a slightly deeper star recess than the HS-801 meaning the 801 module has a more protruding emitter and insulator. That shouldn't be a problem but the thread pitch might be different too. That would be an unsolvable problem.
i only brought the R2 module becuase i linked it so i though i better try it out or ive just given a heap of people a bum steer.
the XR-E emiter only produces 14 lumens more, the human eye will not pick that up i know mine will not only a light meter might.
the XR-E R2 emmiter is still only rated at 1000 mAh (1 amp) maxium current with 4 volt max the same as the Q5 so i cant see any realy benifit to swaping them over honestly as on papper there is not much in them and in the real world the diffrence is even less imo.
so if the 801 module does not fit that im only trying cause i linked it i will not bother swaping the emiter star or reflowing the emiter to swap it over, as to me it would be a total waste of time for no gain, but i will let you know if the 801 module fits or not with out re-threading
i brought the 1100 mAh 1 mode driver for some thing else but ill try it in the usa168, im intrested in it to see if it has any regulation or constant current but i realy dont think so.
i already have 5 Xm-l,s and ive had to start giving them away to buy more lolls I've given my old man 3 Xm-l's now, my mum 1 Xm-l and my wife 1 Xm-l I think I've got a Xm-l addiction so i have no plan,s to xm-l the usa168
This light has intrigued me. I just ordered one and will pump this one up with a 4x7135 and see what it can do against my stock C88. It looks like it should beat the C88 when driven properly. The problem with my C88 is that it is way OVERdriven... around 2A. Not very healthy.
If it would be slightly over 2A, you could just swap the emitter with a XM-L and transform your flashlight. Make it healthier?
Actually I assume it is direct drive on high, so if you hook up an XML it will actually go even higher (the XM-Ls lower Vf at work). Besides I already have an XML one. 
I just like playing with the stock one and its pencil thin beam. I could change it to a 1.4A driver but I wanted to keep it stock for a “reference” light.
Exactly what I'm doing with mine. 1.4A should be ideal for this light. Just waiting for the driver to arrive. The price of the light plus the driver costs no more than other HS-802 clones out there and it will be driven just as I want.
I have to correct myself.
My C88 is only 2A+ when fed with a large li-ion (26650 LiMn). It was the last thing I tried and the number stuck in my head.
On 'loops it starts out at 1.7A and settles down under 1.3A after a few short runs.
I didn't mean to overstate my C88. :) (wrong!)
I'm setting up a 10 meter "shooting range" in my garage and hope to do a bunch of lux tests on a number of lights in the next couple months and the 168 and C88 will definitely be included.