I have been reading a lot recently about people modding their flashlights. So I thought, what the heck, I will give it a go myself. I am pretty handy with soldering and electronics in general so don’t think I will have a problem.
I have just bought a few things which from my research I believe are all compatible.
From Intl-Outdoor I have bought:
22AWG Silicone Wire
XM-L Insulation Gaskets (I realised afterwards these aren’t necessary as it doesnt have a reflector, handy to have I suppose)
20mm Forward Clicky Switch
Qlite Rev.A 7135*8 Driver 3.04A
Cyan GITD Switch Boot (Just for something different!)
The emitter I got from Illumination Supply and went for an XM-L2 U2 1C copper MCPCB
I am going to put it all into a UniqueFire UF-T20. I chose this torch because my only other torches are a TN30, TN31, XinTD C8 V4, M10 Maverick and S10 Baton, all of which I do not want to be pulling apart for my first try at modding. Also it is pretty well made and has a semi-decent brass pill. Anyway, I understand how it all goes together, I have already pulled the torch apart so have all the components in front of me and I measured them all to ensure what I was buying was the correct size. I have a tube of Arctic Silver 5 here from assembling PCs. So I think I am virtually all set.
However, I am not 100% on one thing. The wiring of the driver to change the modes. I am only after 2-modes (15% - 100%) which is the third star. If it is not too much to ask, could someone indicate on the picture below (or a better one if you have it) what I will need to change/solder to get the 2-modes from the driver. I would really appreciate it!
Also if it makes a difference I use Panasonic 3100mAh protected cells from Fasttech.
Yep. My main aim is to make a great flooder out of it. However it’s throw at the moment is pretty impressive for its price etc and I figure if it can only get better with what I have planned.
keltex78… thanks for that link!! Thats exactly what I was after. It is even easier that I thought it was! I am pretty sure their layouts are the same, the Qlite driver has 105c on it as well, will just check which star I need to use. A question though, is it necessary to break the connection between the default and ground as shown in that picture? Some comments after that picture say its not necessary?
Edit… did a bit more reading and noticed that the three mode is the default set up. I might just leave it at that just to save having to do anything to it; 2 or 3 modes doesnt really make much difference. Basically just didn’t want a strobe mode!! haha
I have modded mine with the 105C 3,04A driver and a dedomed XP-G2 for extreme throw, but your set-up will be generally more useful. The flood is a just a bit less uniform in this torch than in a Sipik sk68 (I guess it is because of the glass lens), but still nice.
No need to break a connection... Quick tip, just tin the star and the ground lip on the edge of the driver and use a small piece of single-strand wire to bridge the star, then just cut off the excess. Makes it a lot easier than trying to make a solder bridge...
Cheers for the comments. I sent an email to Hank at intl-outdoor and he confirmed that I only need to bridge the star and ground. Now just need to play the waiting game!!
I just run a solder bridge from the star to the ground ring. Though as mentioned earlier a strand of wire would also be great and probably neater. I’ll have to try that next.
