First time SRK build tech help!

You end up with more of a flooder which won’t seem as bright even though lumen output is greater. That’s ok if flood is what you want from your lumens. One mod that’s been relegated is the gorilla DTP where a hole is drilled through the heat pad and filled with copper wire. That would allow the use of the stock board at increased output though not as high as full copper DTP. So far I’ve just switched everything to copper DTP but the expense goes up with bigger multi-die lights

It is not possible to reflow a single LED on a mutiple LED MCPCB. They will all reflow at about the same time regardless of where you apply heat. Makes sense as the entire point of the mcpcb is to spread heat.

Small mcpcb’s are easy to reflow, I use my reflow gun set to around 400c for those, since you are heating from the bottom as long as you stop applying heat once the solder melts (by pulling the reflow gun further away) it will be just fine.

Even if you think you have the right amount of solder, I would still tap the led to squirt out excess. If there are any air gaps under the LED it will drastically reduce the thermal path and cause it to overheat. I tried to get the solder paste perfect at first but I think I got about 25% right to the point I was happy with it without tapping.

I have the SRK 32x 7135 Driver - V2 in now and getting right around 2 amps each with stock emitters. It’s almost as bright as my L6 which is not bad. I’m looking for that, are you kidding me lumen output. That’s why a bought the SRK V2 FET + 7135 Driver and new emitters for my SRK. I will use the SRK 32x 7135 Driver - V2 in another SRK, I really like this driver. I think it might go well in a 4 emitter SRK. I purchased my 6 emitter SRK about 5+ years ago so its the real one, now trying to find one is hit and miss with all the clones.

The Annual Contest? Please do explain, if you don’t mind.

Each year for the past 4 years there’s been a contest devoted to scratch built lights consisting of two separate types, hand made, and machine made. Basically you can use any of the parts that go into a light but you have to make the host from scratch. It’s a hoot with lots of unique and outrageous participation.

OK, so the heat is applied from the bottom and not the top, good to know. Sorry, very green at this. I’ll use my heat gun for better distribution and even heat. I will definitely tap each emitter, I would hate any of them to ground out or not make proper contact. You have Been a great help Texas Ace and most certainly saved me from much grief. I appreciate your patients with this green horn.

This sounds like great fun. When do I begin lol.

The VOB video is a big help, I use a butane torch under a 1.5mm thick scrap of aluminum but other methods of supplying sufficient heat work as well. Examine them afterwards under magnification, they should sit flat and even without any gap underneath.

Just got done watching the video, this was a big help! I like the skillet method. It makes perfect scene to heat slowly and then let cool the same way. Thank you Rufusbduck! Between You and Texas Ace, You guys have been great in taking your time with me to insure I have a better experience with my project instead of total frustration and out of pocket costs. This is not a cheap hobby but a very rewarding one. in simple, you guys ROCK! :smiley:

I enjoy reading threads like this the most, members pitching in with excellent information and guidance from their own knowledge and experiences! Very informative and entertaining to say the least! Great job all! :beer:

Good luck to you Majoroverkill, enjoy your build!!! Take your time, think the process thru, and if it gets stressful take a break! ( keep all major bludgeoning devices out of arms reach!) :smiley: :+1:

I still cock things up regularly as do others I’m sure so try to take it in stride when it happens. Part of the pleasure is pushing past obstacles. Oh yeah, and practice your reflows on old emitters.

Will do. Thank you once again Rufusbduck for all your helpful experiance, I am very grateful for your knowledge.

Modding and reading about other mods is my entertainment here so anything I can do to help is selfishly motivated. :stuck_out_tongue:

Just got done a couple hours ago with my SRK mod. WOW!! times three! The 3/8’’ copper worked out great. I had to bevel the bottom so the switch wires would clear. I drilled 3 holes threw the copper after shaping it. One was for the wires to pass threw to the MCPCB and the other two to mount the copper and MCPCB to the reflector. The 6 XM L2 U4 A1 emitters with the 46mm - SRK V2 FET + 7135 Driver - SRK V2 Firmware: SRK Spec. | Ext. Tem… - SRK V2 FW Stepdown: 90 Sec. - SRK V2 Input Voltage: 1S (~4.2V) really kicks the dark in the a double ss! I was able to use my ZENY 862D+ to re-flow the emitters and it worked great. 1 gram of silver thermal past between the copper slug and the MCPCB was a bit much lol. messy stuff. I have not yet mounted the external temp sensor and not sure there is room or if its needed. After the 90 second turbo timer kicks down there is barley and increase in heat. I held the SRK to my cheek and it was slightly warm, should have went with the 240 + second timer. Cool thing is, one tap of the switch and it’s back on turbo :smiley: I took it outside and compared it to my X7 Marauder and the SRK out throws it by quit a bit. Can’t wait for the SRK X 4 to get here next week. I’m going to order 4 Sinkpad XP 10mm Copper MCPCB sense I have the XP L2 V5’s already for the new SRK. I could not be happier with the outcome and I owe Texas Ace and Rufusbduck a BIG thank you for all your help! THANK YOU :smiley: When I was outside for the first time tonight, I started at moonlight and worked my way up to turbo. By the 5th mode I was starting to giggle and 6th and 7th I was laughing! still can not believe how much light this SRK puts out. I wish I would have taken pictures during the process. Getting the copper, MCPCB, spacers and the reflector all lined up was a pain! The only tool I had to form the 1.5’’ x 3’’ x 3/8th’’ copper bus bar was my angle grinder. It really was not bad. A 1/16th’’ cutting off wheel, flap sander and a pair of vice grips did the trick. OK now I’m rambling. I’ll order the 10mm MCPCB’s now and let you know how it go’s with the SRK 4. This time I’ll take pictures while I’m modifying it.

Well done! Drum roll , and the beam shots please

+1 on this. Orsm effort. :+1:

Beamshots bud, we need beamshots !!
:beer: :beer:
:smiley:

pics? words only do so much…

we want PICS! we want PICS we want PICS!

lol…

Yeah, pics please