Something like this should work…
#!/bin/sh
# Usage: ./read-tiny13.sh foo
BASE=$1
avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -n -Uflash:r:${BASE}.hex:i
avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -n -Uflash:r:${BASE}.raw:r
avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -n -Ulfuse:r:${BASE}.lf:h
avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -n -Uhfuse:r:${BASE}.hf:h
Need help with hex files please.
I currently have no way to compile a hex file since my tablet and laptop both has recently been stolen. I am able to flash a driver with my phone but I can not compile a hex, I can edit the code and calibrate the voltages and the otc and send them to whom ever is willing to help. Litterally I can do everything to the point ready to make a hex file and even flash the driver with the generated hex. If anyone is willing to help please send me a P.M., the help would be appreciated greatly since I’m bashing my face trying to find a way to do it with Android OS.
Please tell how. Is there some Android app that will allow you to use a stabdard USB AVR programmer (with a USB adapter)?
To generate hex files, you could rent a $5/month Linux VPS from somewhere like Digital Ocean and compile it remotely. There are other cheaper VPS providers but I know Digital Ocean are good. You can also pay hourly, which works out low cost for just a few hours. Once you’ve generated the file, you should be able to download it on your Android device.
I have a usb otg adaptor, asp ii, and use ZFlasher AVR.
Thanks to all that helped me here. I’ve got NarsilMQ to run on the BLFA6 driver successfully. The switch was the big downfall. The driver is very sensitive to the switch and running a modified forward clicky switch was the biggest issue.
Hi TK,
The other day I was surfing around and came across a thread here on BLF that listed all the current ATTiny based FWs (yours and others) with a brief description. I believe you were the thread starter but that may not be true…
All my searching now only brings me back to this thread. Any idea what thread I’m talking about?
I’m interested in the list because I’d like to compare all FW options with some sort of battery check function.
Edit: flashlight FW cheatsheat
You might also find the INDEX file useful, linked from the first post:
http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/view/head:/INDEX
Hi, yes I read that several times, thank you for the well organized list!
Another question regarding cypreus, I flashed it then got frustrated trying to follow this diagram
Till I realized cypreus2 is pretty different from the single channel version! Full disclosure I gave up pretty quickly and flashed that light to biscotti but then started reading threw the actual OG cypreus.txt and my interest is still piqued. Are you aware of any diagrams / flow charts anyones made for the original cypreus?
No, I don’t think I made a diagram for the older cypreus. It was only used briefly before I upgraded to a FET+1. A FET by itself was not good at low modes, and most of my original-cypreus time was spent trying to work around that.
Is there any soft available that has the double click for turbo option (100)? I have one driver with guppy3drv and in Deck 5 there is one group that interests me, namely Firefly/1/5/25/double click for 100. Unfortunately, there is no memory.
http://i.imgur.com/0uHztoE.png
For e-switch lights, yes.
For clicky-switch lights, not exactly. But there is another shortcut to turbo in blf-a6 and bistro. Instead of click-tap to get to turbo from off, it’s click-mediumtap. Basically just hold the button half-pressed a little bit longer, and it’ll go backward from moon to turbo.
On clicky-switch lights, I prefer this method to the double-tap-for-turbo. Because on my guppydrv light, I’m constantly trying to turn it on and go to, like, level 2 or 3… and instead it goes to turbo. It’s really annoying. I don’t have that problem on lights which use medium-press instead of double-tap to get to turbo, because I can cycle through modes as fast as I want without any unintended side effects.
I have asked DrJones to make his firmware open-source, but he is not interested. So his interfaces will remain closed and proprietary, with no means of modifying the parts you want to change.
TK. Is there a version of Biscotti that can be used with an E switch?
Nope.
But Flintrock made BistroHD work with an e-switch, and it’s a lot like Biscotti. It acts almost exactly like it does with a clicky switch, except, since it can’t actually click, it uses long-press for off. It even turns off the emitters while the button is down, as if power had been disconnected like it is on a clicky switch.
Honestly I find it a bit weird emulating a clicky switch with an e-switch, but it does exist if that’s what you want.
For attiny13, there aren’t a lot of options for e-switch firmware. Mostly STAR and STAR-like UIs, plus I made a ramping one and a Baton clone. But with tiny25 you can also use BistroHD, and with tiny85, there are several fuller-featured interfaces to choose from. Mainly Narsil and the entire family of FSM-based interfaces.
Thanks TK. 
I know that for e-switches there is. I have your Baton firmware in one flashlight. I like it very much because of its simplicity. Thanks for that!
I know about the med-tap, because I am trying to embrace the Bistro HD for all my flashlights. But I wanted to have one diffrent.
Guppy3drv would be nice if DrJones make the memory as an option for each group.
Anyway, thanks for the answer.
TK, just a heads up, never ran into this with any other FW.c file (cypress 1 & 2, bistro, biscotti, some others) but I tried to download BLF-A6.C today and windows defender wouldn’t allow me, said virus detected.
I opened up the file and copy / pasted it no problem so I was still able to flash it to the driver I was working on (seeming to confirm the file was fine). As an afterthought I tried to re-download bistro less than 5 minutes later and had no issues, went back and retried blf-a6 and the same thing happened again.
Windows 10, no aftermarket anti-virus just windows defender. Browser is chrome.
On the bottom side of a Qlite driver in the C1 position. I assume that is a capacitor. Does anyone know the value and footprint of it?
Thanks!
Most likely an 0805 footprint and 10uf but I do not have a driver to test it myself.
Yup, TA’s right. I just grabbed a standard nanjg105c / qlite and removed the C1 from it. It indeed tested out to be a 10 uF 0805 capacitor. Cheers!
Thank you!
