Flashlight Firmware Repository

[moderator007]

@ToyKeeper

Moon is easy to do without a 7135 or FET. All it needs is a pin to a resistor to an emitter. The attiny’s internal pullup resistor can then be used to set the emitter into three states — high, low, and off. Or you could use PWM on it, but that requires keeping the attiny awake so it’s a lot less efficient.

Several lights, like the BLF Q8, use this method to light up a button while the light is otherwise asleep. At only 0.1 mA it can be bright enough to work as a moon mode of sorts, and at 0.03 mA it works well as a locator light.

You could do the same thing on the main emitter(s), possibly using less resistance, to produce an incredibly efficient moon mode.

Thank you Toykeeper.
I kept having this crazy idea in my head. So we really don’t even need a amc7135 to achieve moonlight mode, just one resistor, FET and dual channel FW. But its more efficient to use the pull up resistor.
I believe a 8.4k resistor gives .5ma and uses .0021 watts. I would need to test to see just how low that is.

[ToyKeeper]

Moon plus FET still isn’t very good at the low/med modes. I’d recommend doing FET+1 (or FET+N) on pins 5 and 6, and using pin 2 or 3 for a dedicated moon channel.

[Flashy_Mike]

@moderator007

I kept having this crazy idea in my head. So we really don’t even need a amc7135 to achieve moonlight mode, just one resistor, FET and dual channel FW. But its more efficient to use the pull up resistor.
I believe a 8.4k resistor gives .5ma and uses .0021 watts. I would need to test to see just how low that is.

Resistance also depends on the type of the LEDs. E. g. 3k is a good value for a decent moonlight with Nichia 219C. You shouldn’t do PWM, just power the i/o-pin and let the MCU sleep. And you can’t use the internal pull up resistor with main LEDs, since in our usual FET and 7135 drivers the anodes are connected to batt+ and the cathodes have to be pulled down. With several resistors at different pins you can even have different levels of low moon.

What did you mod today?

Emisar D4 Beacon/Indicator/Extreme-Moonlight-Mod After adding switch LED support to my Q8 momentary firmware I wanted something similar for my Emisar D4. Instead of using real switch LEDs I decided to use the ordinary front LEDs. PWMing them would prevent sleep mode of mcu, so I soldered two 10k SMD resistors in parallel (=5K) and wired them between LED- and PIN 3 of mcu (don’t have 4.7k currently). With low level at PIN 3 the front LEDs are powered with a current of about 360 uA (Nichia 219C). …

[ToyKeeper]

Ah, interesting. I’ve only tried the internal resistor on aux LEDs, not the main ones. So I guess that’s not an option after all.

[TheOnlyDocc]

gchart
I think it will be your simply named “ramping UI”. Thats all i need. But i will have to find someone that can mod the PCB layout. I got one light open and now i can see that i have to go singel side. But without the FET this should work. If it is not possible i have to try a few things, but i am not sure that it will fit.
ToyKeeper
I checked djozz tests. And with one 7135 i can get ~180 lumen 350mA and ~200 380mA from a XP-G3 S5. That is nearly 2x standart output. Thats really enough. And i do not have to use copper DTP Boards because heat should not be a problem.

But i am searching for a really small reverse clicky switch. I hope there is something small that i can find. The max draw is 380mA. If someone know something please let me know!

[Lexel]

@ToyKeeper

Ah, interesting. I’ve only tried the internal resistor on aux LEDs, not the main ones. So I guess that’s not an option after all.

I have this with my recent P-Fet driver for Black Flats, I used a single inverter with very low idle current, so you can use this for a MCU driven Moonlight while it is in sleep mode

On another occasion I asked for 2 other things for my new driver developments

1. tk calibration file making a 2.2-4.4 1S and 5.6-8.8V 2S LVP for new Boost drivers, this should also have some sort of safe code that reads out the voltage before the boost output starts but give some time for the input caps to charge

2. MCUs like Attiny 841 to support more switches
Like ramp up/ ramp down on separate switch
Or auxillary switches that can store the actual level that is currently output (taggle or momentary)

[MascaratumB]

Sorry if this has been answered before or if it is a dumb question, but I wanted to know how to set thermal configuration on my light with Crescendo FW (MTN DD15m driver).

I know that I have to do +15 taps, then wait for the 2 blinks. But when I turn ON the light again, it only starts to ramp up and down. Is it supposed to act like this or was it supposed to stop on highest “level” and then I would turn OFF to memorize the thermal “value” I want?

Thanks in advance :+1:

[ToyKeeper]

Oh, um, that sounds like you’re doing a long-press or full click instead of a short press. All long-presses go back to the initial state, so it needs a short-press to enter thermal calibration mode.

[MascaratumB]

@ToyKeeper

Oh, um, that sounds like you’re doing a long-press or full click instead of a short press. All long-presses go back to the initial state, so it needs a short-press to enter thermal calibration mode.

Thanks for the answer TK, I was making a full click so it wasn’t working :person_facepalming:
Great UI this Crescendo! I would have some suggestions but they may have been mentioned before!
Thanks again

[MRsDNF]

This is the wrong thread but hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
I was reading somewhere that I can no longer find about Narsil M being run on the BLF A6 driver.
I have programed the Atiny 85 MCU and installed it on the driver. From memory the switch was run of pin 2 and earth. From what I can gather pin 2 is the second bottom from the left pin.
I can only get a flashy mode and a low mode with this setup.
Where have I gone wrong?

[ToyKeeper]

I’m not totally sure, but I think you can probably remove the OTC and use its pads for the switch wires. You may also be able to remove the voltage divider resistors to reduce standby power, and have the attiny use VCC to measure voltage instead.

Otherwise I think it should work, assuming you use the FET+1 build with VCC measurement instead of pin7.

The layouts I see are…

BLF-A6:

 *           ---
 *         -|   |- VCC
 *     OTC -|   |- Voltage ADC
 *  Star 3 -|   |- PWM (FET)
 *     GND -|   |- PWM (1x7135)
 *           ---

NarsilM 2-channel:

 *              ---
 *   Reset  1 -|   |- 8  VCC
 *  switch  2 -|   |- 7  Voltage ADC
 * Ind.LED  3 -|   |- 6  FET PWM
 *     GND  4 -|   |- 5  7135 PWM
 *              ---

Oh, er, there may also be an issue with voltage spikes when the FET is active. I’m not sure. That was an issue on older BLF-A6 / BLF-X6v2 drivers. IIRC the solution was to add a tiny resistor to take the edge off each FET pulse.

[Lexel]

I got here a new driver development which works from hardwareside on Bistro and NarsilM wit a P-FET to use Oslon Black flats on DTP stars

But two things for NarsilM needs to be changed

first
all the blinks do not get to the LED as I use MCU Pin 6 over the ramping table to activate the inverter enable chip to keep the parasitic drain low
so adding Pin6 to high permenently as soon as the MCU gets active or adding it to the blink code

second lower the blink brightness as its shown by the MOSFET

I use the 3 channel with modified ramping table so far its workin, but all blinks keep silent as the inverter is shut down

[Billy_X]

Astrolux S1 BLF A6 A17DD-L FET+1 and BLF X6 X5/Astrolux S2 S3 SS SC with attiny85 Transplant is the thread by Moderater.I’ve ordrered an A6 driver to try out.

[MRsDNF]

Thanks TK. I’ll post a picture up when I get time to get some pointers on whats what.

[Billy_X]

I Did Not Finish,my link was for you.

[MRsDNF]

Thanks Billy. I knew it was here somewhere. :+1:

[Billy_X]

You’re welcome.

[ToyKeeper]

@Lexel

I got here a new driver development which works from hardwareside on Bistro and NarsilM wit a P-FET to use Oslon Black flats on DTP stars

But two things for NarsilM needs to be changed

first
all the blinks do not get to the LED as I use MCU Pin 6 over the ramping table to activate the inverter enable chip to keep the parasitic drain low
so adding Pin6 to high permenently as soon as the MCU gets active or adding it to the blink code

second lower the blink brightness as its shown by the MOSFET

I use the 3 channel with modified ramping table so far its workin, but all blinks keep silent as the inverter is shut down

Hi, I’m not really familiar with what you’re doing, and I don’t think I understand what you’re asking. Care to elaborate?

[Lexel]

@ToyKeeper

@Lexel

I got here a new driver development which works from hardwareside on Bistro and NarsilM wit a P-FET to use Oslon Black flats on DTP stars

But two things for NarsilM needs to be changed

first
all the blinks do not get to the LED as I use MCU Pin 6 over the ramping table to activate the inverter enable chip to keep the parasitic drain low
so adding Pin6 to high permenently as soon as the MCU gets active or adding it to the blink code

second lower the blink brightness as its shown by the MOSFET

I use the 3 channel with modified ramping table so far its workin, but all blinks keep silent as the inverter is shut down

Hi, I’m not really familiar with what you’re doing, and I don’t think I understand what you’re asking. Care to elaborate?

I guess the easiest fix would be to move the FET pin for 1 channel version moved to pin 3 Indicator to pin 7
I am totally puzzled looking in the channels file how it works

I have the FET output as in 3 channel, P-FET is one channel only so low blinks should do on the FET channel

[ToyKeeper]

@Lexel

On another occasion I asked for 2 other things for my new driver developments

1. tk calibration file making a 2.2-4.4 1S and 5.6-8.8V 2S LVP for new Boost drivers, this should also have some sort of safe code that reads out the voltage before the boost output starts but give some time for the input caps to charge

2. MCUs like Attiny 841 to support more switches
Like ramp up/ ramp down on separate switch
Or auxillary switches that can store the actual level that is currently output (taggle or momentary)

Calibration files can be generated by following the instructions in battcheck/README. It’s meant to be relatively easy to calibrate any hardware, and relatively easy to plug into each code project, since calibration varies quite a bit from one driver to the next.

I’m not really doing any hardware design yet, so I can’t really make a driver for tiny841. It does look like a nice upgrade though, and I’ll probably port code to such a thing as soon as I have hardware to use for development.