Yup, OP reflector and 1.4A current afects the throw. Just get full current drop-in with SMO reflector and then interchange parts so you'll find the best combination for you.
As a mount I would suggest this - plain, simple and good grip for 18650 based lights. We are using it on several bikes. For biger dia hadle bars use some tight strip insted of screw.
+1
Thanks for your explanation and the link.
I will check and come back with the current.
What is the difference between OP and SMO reflector?
How can you remove the felector from the dropin? Just pull it down?
Is there any other 1x 18650 flashlight with a bigger refelctor than the P60s that makes a better throw than a directdriven WF504B?
I can't imagine that the flashlight should hold tightly on this mount at it doesn't get fixed on it at all.
I prefer the mount with the veclro stip because it can be removed fast and span the flashlight completely.
You can just unscrew reflector from drop-in. Find all about drop-in at http://flashlight-wiki.com/P60 and http://flashlight-wiki.com/DIY_P60.
There are a lot of bigger reflector ones like C8 style. They have thighter hotspot but you still have to chose which reflector suits you best SMO or OP - same game as with P60. I like it SMO more because it gives more even beam and you see more surroundings. But you have to try it by yourself - depends also on speed. The higher speed - more throw is needed ie. tighter hotspot.
Belive me, rubber mount is better and holds flashlight very tight. I use it on downhill through woods on very bumpy trails. You need a lot of power to pull flashlight off. Welcro mount might be slipy (depends on flashlight body surface) and can be better for smaler lighter flashlights.
Is there any flashlight with a bigger reflector than P60 that makes more throw and the same flood and however at the same time is not too big to still wear it in a cargo pant pocket?
This flashlight should be at same price level as the W504B is.
I think I will try both of the mounts a see which one is the better for me.
I tried to check the voltage of the dropin today with a noname DMM at 20mA.
The DMM showed me values between 7 and 9A. That can’t be possible.
Is it just because of the bad quality of the DMM?
Or could I have done something wrong?
You need a DMM with a 10A plug so you can measure up to 10 amps. Setting your DMM at 20ma will not give you a valid reading. So you need a better DMM to answer your question.
Okay, thanks for your reply, E1320.
So I will check with a friend's DMM that has a 10A mode.
By the way, can the dropin be damaged while checking.
Especially at the beginning when the contact to the battery tube was not so good, the light flickered a bit.
It is pretty unlikely you shorted out the drop in testing the amperage draw with a DMM the flickering was probably damage being done to the DMM not the drop in.
Could that be the reason for the inexact data?
I think the flickering was only beacuse I pushed the -pin on the thread and there was no proper contact.
Later it worked and the light was permanently on.
I only wanted to know if this flickering is not good for the dropin.
So I finally measurd that amps draw of the dropin today and I am surprised that it is 4,66 A in high mode!
And course the flickering was only because of the different mode that changed when the contact of one pin was interrupted.
So the dropin is not underdriven at all and the flashlight should make the bst light possible for this configuration.
The flashlight is very bright, not a question. But the beam should be thrown around 50 metres further.
In order to get a further beam I need a flashlight ith a bigger reflector, right?
What 18650 flashlight do you recomend that still fits into a pocket of a cargo short?
I have been using a pill from UF XM-L dropin in this host. Throws like an animal, but gives you some usable flood as well.
You already have a well performing dropin, so you can just buy the host and replace the pill. Easy mod, no soldering, grinding or whatsoever. Just separate the pill from dropin, screw in the pill to the new host and you are done.
That might be the best alternative, if it fits your pocket. Should fit?
Thanks for the recommendation.
Is this also a clone of the Ultrafire U80 as the Keygos EK5 XM-LT6?
If so the Keygos should be the better bang for buck light.
Are there any other U80 mutation that could come into consideration?
TF-R2 is actually a Dereelight DBS clone. It's a bit larger than Keygos, which is unbelievably small (just received mine), and has bigger hotspot. Keygos has small, very focused hotspot.
TF-R2 feels better in hand and seems to be higher quality. Keygos feels like a toy to me :)
Is there another thrower that has also an acceptable flood?
Is the flood much worse compared to the WF504B?
I don’t like this hotsport of the TF-R2.
Does this stand out outside, in normal condition, also?
The WF504B has a more even beam and not such a hotsport what is an advantage.
Is there a thrower like the TF-R2 with a more ven beam like the WF504B?
Throwers tend to have a tight hotspot. That's what makes them throw so well..
If you want throw without tight hotspot, you need lumens. Many many lumens. For example any of the 3xXM-L will throw quite well AND make some kind of "wall of light" as flood.
A flashlight’s reflector with 3 XM-L is probably to big for carrying in a cargo pant pocket.
And it will be too expensive, too.
Are there any action pics of the TF-R2?
I have used the Ultrafire C2 http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafire-c2-t60-cree-xm-lt6-3-mode-1200-lumen-white-led-flashlight-w-strap-1-x-18650-1-x-17670-90777 on my bike this week, and it is really very good.
Are there any action pics of the Ultrfire C2 available?
Does this light also has this issue with the hotspot?
The C2 XML-T6 has no issues with the hotspot. The SSC P7 of the Magicshine MJ-816 has a visible donuthole in the hotspot, the hotspot of the C2 has no donuthole, it is brighter, and the hotspot is a little bit wider.