Flashlight Horror

[NeutralFan]

@WillyD

Hey, good choice on the BD06. Are you planning on keeping it stock for him? This is the easiest driver ever to add 7135s to. Also, even if you don’t touch the driver, you might want to bypass the brass cap on top of the driver spring. It has the most resistance of any I have tested. If you have the means, drill a small hole through the top, fill it with solder, tin the top of the cap while you’re at it, and then bypass the spring with braid or wire soldered to driver and cap. This will at least get you to the ~3A stock current. Without it, you are probably looking more at 2A. Of course, they might have a different brass cap now with better conductivity.

I was not planning on making any mods to it. It already has 8 7135s and about 1,000 lumens so it should be plenty good for being stock. If anything, it may be a little too much for him, but should be safe since it’s a bigger flashlight so it shouldn’t get too hot.

Thanks for the insight on bypassing the brass cap. I’ve only bypassed springs to date. Maybe I’ll consider it after I’ve had a chance to test it out.

[NeutralFan]

@EyeballFryer

Please let me know if I should’ve gone with some other flashlight, or if you have any other thoughts.

If he loses the little adapter, he loses his ability to recharge the flashlight. I would have considered a micro USB flashlight, like an Eagle Eye X2R or X5R. The main gotcha for these flashlights is that the flashlight must be turned ON for the recharging to work.

Good point about the specialized charging adapter. I don’t see that Simon sells them separately on the Convoy site. I guess if it did get lost, I could get him a $5 XTAR MC1 charger, but I’ll stress to him not to loose it.

I like your Eagle Eye suggestions. They look pretty good, but I still like the bigger BD06 flashlight for better heat management (and no turbo timeout) and the extra capacity of a 26650 battery.

EDIT - And the BD06 has reverse battery protection.