That’s the idea!
Did you do that yourself DBC? I think I’ve seen photos of that setup somewhere but not sure who did it.
I’ve thought about trying it myself, I could probably cut a piece small enough and rig up some wire for the + and - connections. What I know I would not be able to do is get the top and bottom sides parallel.
No need to make those for the connections too, just solder leads directly to the electrical pads on the bottom of the emitter.
I did this for an HD2010 last year, also cut the inner head so the pill would seat about an 1/8” deeper. There was no danger of the reflector shorting and the focus was good on it.
how do y’all focus ’em quickly and efficiently?
Eyeball it and guesstimate. 
But seriously, I usually try the reflector over the emitter I plan to use and get a good idea of the beam profile in action, then do what I have to do in order to get the correct distances. Fortunate for me that I have a good sense of measurement from what I see and can usually hit it based purely on that alone.
I’ve been known to look at my parts, then go outside to where I use a dremel and do my cuts, take it back in the house when I’m convinced it’s right and it just fits. That’s happened so often I just take it as a blessing and run with it.
I have done a ton of these and I simply take a round file and file out the entire flat bottom of the reflector. Then I use a good thermal epoxy and use a 16mm noctigon or sink pad it will then fit down around the sinkpad and can be focused perfectly. Also for maximum throw you do not want to get rid of the doughnut hole completely. About 18 inches seems to be pretty good. You can tell because the light actually focuses perfectly that way at a farther distance. Right now when I do these I use two 2.8 amp drivers. The throw is simply unreal for this size light. It will smack down a stock TN-32 or even the new TK61.
The flat bottom on any of these drivers can be removed to allow more light to reach the reflector. Also on just about any type of SST-50 or SST-90 light this is needed to properly focus a de-domed XM-L2 or XP-G2.
If you don’t want the hassle of putting two drivers together you can also simply buy a FET driver and run them that way. 5amps is great on this light, same thing for the HD2010. Although I can get much more throw out of the T08.
I added a spacer that is 1/4” thick and swapped the AL star the came in the light for an dedomed XML2 on a noctigon. It looks like I need to remove most of the spacer, I had to screw the pill out .21” to get it to focus. It is brighter that it was, the spot I get running direct drive on one cell that’s at 3.8v blows away my jacob A60.
1/4” thick copper was used to make the pedestal, the contacts are from sheet copper. Once everything was cut to fit the pad, I clamped the 3 pieces together and filed top and bottom for flat equal surfaces. Reflowed the entire assembly, including emitter, simultaneously. To ensure no shorts, I cut a strip from a soda can and folded it over into a “c” shape that fit around the pedestal and between it and the connection pieces, then slid it out when finished.
Cutting off the rear of the reflector also has the same effect as moving the LED farther forward. Might be easier on some designs, it will really depend on the light.