XinTD C8 from IOS. It has a forward clicky and 1 inch body. And you also get a powerful light around 1K lumens.
And yes, for the record, this advice is pretty spot on. It doesn’t need to be SUPER bright, because at night, that will kill my eyes as well as theirs.
Looking at Solarforce’s site, there a quite a few different L2 bodies available. Do any of them stand out against the rest as being the best?
I call the L2M the best. Either 18650 or two 18350’s, and tons of P60 style pills you can get. And the one that stands up to the MOST abuse on a rifle (even 7.62) = WTS: P60 Drop in Light Engine | Candle Power Flashlight Forum
They are solder filled and fully potted so NOTHING can move inside the pill 
-Jamie M.
Yeah, I guess I really need to make sure whatever I put on it is potted, since it’s gonna be on a 12ga shotgun… lol. The drop-ins from Solarforce are not potted I assume? So I should pick up a head/body/tail cap from them and get a drop-in elsewhere?
My first “good” light was a Solarforce “L2”, with it I bought a 3-mode XP-G drop-in, 4 - 18650 batteries and a charger. I was looking forward to getting this 320 lumens for 3.5 hours in high mode.
I charged the batteries, assembled the light, turned it on high and set it on my desk.
I returned in about 30 minutes and sat at my computer. In a few minutes I noticed a ionized air smell, and picked the light up, just for a moment because this light was roasting hot !
I put it down, in a few more minutes it went out…… never to turn on again.
So, I got about 55 minutes on high with new, everything, and it killed the led.
I’d heard the claimed run-times were exaggerated, but I just witnessed a run-time of just over 26% of their website claim of 3.5 hours, (210 minutes).
In Solarforce’s behalf, I emailed them and explained my problem and they did send me a replacement drop-in.
BTW, all that cost about $63.00 delivered.
I must be doing something wrong…
Links? Sounds like that would be a decent setup, although the story above makes me wonder…
Also, I’m a DIY light idiot… I assumed that with a ‘drop-in’, that’s all I would need in conjuction with, for instance, the $11 L2M from solarforce. Looks like I’m wrong, judging by your list. I have a lot to learn, so it seems.
Make sure you wrap the dropin very tight with regular aluminum foil (not adhesive backed). That’ll allow the heat from the LED/driver to be wicked out!
-Jamie M.
Hey upSLIDEdown,
I was poking at skyrider1 mostly. I didn’t want you to get the impression that this was a cheap endeavor, it is really cost effective though.
Some examples…
Solarforce L2M
L2m-L2M2012-BK $10.99
Solarforce XP-G 1-mode LED
Cree Input Volt (0.8v-4.2v)-XP-G_1MOP $12.99
Solarforce
Solarforce 18650 Car & Home Charger $12.99
Shipping and handling is usually $2.00
The Solarforce website isn’t showing batteries right now but you can figure between $10 & $15 delivered for a pair of 18650 lithium batteries. Another plus of the SF-L2M is that the body tube is in two sections and by removing the rearmost portion you can use a 16350 or 18350 battery. I don’t run 2 battery lights, it’s more effort than I choose to pursue.
For around $50 you’ll have a more than decent quality hand-held light. As far as mounting it to a 12 gauge, I haven’t done that yet. This LED “drop-in” listed isn’t hardened for that kind of use.
I do have one on an AR and one on a “plastic pistol”, and I carry a single mode light in my “belly-bag”.
I’m pretty sure there are members of this forum that have working solutions to high recoil forces like you’re proposing.
The real pitfall is the one that many of us fell into some time ago.
I came here, like you did, to build a good flashlight/weapons-light. I still have 6 or 7 left after giving away at least that many.
This is your last warning…
RUN AWAY NOW !
toysareforboys
Thanks!
That was a sarcastic jab at skyrider1. But thanks for the video!
A drop-in at 1.4A should be manageable in terms of heat for a p60 host. Combined with a pana3400 cell and the low Vf of an xpg-2, it should be around 2 hrs. But this is all theoretical.
Heat also highly depends on condition of use. Leaving a light tailstanding is one of the hottest ways to run a light. Held in the hand or just moving around on the end of a weapon would increase the rate at which heat leaves the light.
Also if you have a light mounted to a gun, the heat could potentially travel from the host to the gun. This could render heat a non issue depending on the thermal path to the gun. I guess if the light is on a gun in the first place, heat wouldn’t entirely matter since you are not holding the light. I think the LED and electronics themselves can handle the heat without too much problem if you are not over driving it.
This weapon lights build can be built up without spending much money. Since you need to pot it, a DIY route is best.
So, am I correct in thinking I will need more than a drop-in and an $11 light? Or is there an intro/basics thread someone can point me to so I’m not asking for a explanation of something that’s been explained 10000000s of times. All the shorthand and acronyms are hard to decipher if you’re not used to the lingo.
That is all you will need. $11 host and a complete drop-in.
Host - solarforceflashlight-sales.com
Complete Drop-in (Recommended by many) - http://intl-outdoor.com/xml2-p60-dropin-module-alxm2-p-740.html
He listed the pieces of a drop-in if you wanted to make your own:
Of course you’ll also need a battery and charger if you don’t already have those.
Ahhh, I gotcha. Sorry for the stupid questions. I appreciate you ‘dumbing it down’ for me, so to speak. I’ll have to pick up batteries and a charger as well. My current setup is the little cheap $3 lights from Hong Kong that have been all over slickdeals and amazon for the last 6 months or a year, and they use a single AA, or a 14500, which is what I’ve been using with them.
The L2M can be run short, or long with the extra battery tube. What would the batt configs be for both? I like the shortness of my current light, but I’d also like to have something with a longer run time. I assume the short setup would be a CR123? And the extension would be an 18650? And the 18650 will give the best battery life?
Also, is there a reason not to buy the light already assmebled from Solarforce with their drop-in? Is it not as good/nice/bright?
It looks like the one from intl’s medium mode is 25-30, where Solarforce’s is 60… Seems odd to me that they’d be so different.
So 1x CR123A/16340 without the extension tube, 2x CR123A/16340 with extension tube, or 1x 18650 with extension tube.
For the Intl drop in you’re looking at roughly 1000 lumens at 3amps with XML2 on aluminum. So 1000 at high, 250-300 medium.
The advantage here is sheer output, plus a substantial amount of customization options.
OP vs SMO reflector for very clean beam vs maximum throw
Various tints ranging from Cool to Warm
Various mode options
For the Solarforce drop ins you’re looking at ~670 lumens (can’t find an amperage listing to confirm) with XML2 presumably on aluminum. 670 at high, 260-350 medium.
I believe all XML2 modules at SF are OP.
Unlisted tint (Cool/neutral white, maybe?)
Various mode options
It really just depends what exactly you want. There’s definitely trade offs for either option.
More heat and less runtime with higher output. Less heat and more runtime with lower output.
More throw, more defined ‘rings’ from hotspot to spill with SMO reflector.
Cleaner beam, less throw with OP reflector.
Favorable tint for you.
Also note: I believe the IntlOD dropin cannot be used with 2x CR123A (Possibly not 1x either…). The module’s input voltage is 2.9V-4.5V (for Lithium-Ion: 1x 16340 or 1x 18650)!
Where are you seeing 1000 lumens from the IntlOD unit? And why does the SF site you posted say 670 lumens, but this site says 980?
http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=53&id=573
I need a few different lights, the weapon light not really needing to be that bright. I may go with a lower power drop-in that won’t kill my eyes for that one, but I’d also like to have a bright EDC light, and I need a replacement light for work, which right now is the little ultrafire with a 14500 I spoke of earlier.
The IntlOD unit looks like a great option for the EDC, and work, but I’m not sure I need that much output on the weapon light, or that it would stand up to the recoil of a 12ga shotgun.
This is the light I’d be replacing for a work. I’ve got quite a few of them. Claim 300 lumens max, no clue how accurate that is.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006E0QAFY/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also just ran across this guy…
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CE1EFCM/ref=cm_cd_asin_lnk
In all the times I’ve gone to the SF site I never saw that drop down box. Wow. I always hated it because I could never find what I was looking for. 
Anyway, I’ll have to look into those options I didn’t see before.
The 1000lumens is roughly what you get with 3amps to an XML2 on an aluminum star.
That Ultrafire 300lm is an sk68 clone; I think just about everyone here has a few of them (and if they don’t they need one!). They’re great little lights for $3-5.
Have you seen the big brother of the 18650 version you linked?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290874165450
Wow, never knew they made a similar one in 26650! Looks awesome!
-Jamie M.
Mine actually arrived today (branded “Aleto”), it’s a bit under driven for the size (1.8 amps), but the build quality is outstanding especially for $13. Clean square threads, rubber o-ring instead of metal for zoom. The pill feels exceptionally hefty. The only negatives are the clip (it’s painted or poorly anodized) and the low current.
Sweet You going to mod it for say 3 amps or so? How does the thermal path look, have you had the pill apart?
-Jamie M.