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FREEME ✌ LUMINTOP FWAA Andúril 2 14500 Titanium+CU★/ Titanium/ Copper Flashlight Group Buy >>> ALIVE
I copied you 
ordered copper SST-20 4000k
+bundle w sapphire lens and battery…
thank you freeme for the great prices
If he offers that, I will order another one!
Ordered Polished Ti SST20 4k, would have liked the Nichia 5k but oh well.
Ordered a polished Ti Nichia 3000K. Thank you Freeme!
Order placed in ti-cu xpg3 Thanks freeme
I have 2 FWAAs and the switches work fine in both of them.
I did think the switches were a bit too easy to depress and might accidentally activate in the pocket, but I performed the same o-ring mod as with the FW3A and the switches in both are now much stiffer.
Overall, I’ve had no problems with my FWAAs. The FWAA’s switch appears to be less finicky than the FW3A’s.
I put the silicone turboglow tail cap switch into my FW3, been working perfectly since, it’s much slicker than the SS button that kept getting caught.
I’m with Freeme on the CU and stonewashed Ti version. Copper head and tail with the ti tube would look fantastic, but I can’t be buying two lights to Lego one into what I want.
This would be great :heart_eyes:
I wonder how hard it is to stonewash or sandblast Ti flashlights.
Can a hobbyist do it simply by buying some blasting media from Amazon, sticking it in a plastic bag with the Titanium flashlight parts, and then shaking vigorously for awhile?
You could be shaking it for quite a long time for mediocre results. I guess some it depends on the media used…?
Do some research on home made vibrating tumblers and see if that could work for you.
Thanks for pointing out the bundle!
I’ve got the same copper SST-20 4000K bundle sitting in my cart, trying to decide whether to hold out for the Ti/Cu. I’m leaning towards just getting the plain copper now.
My biggest concern with all titanium is whether the pill can take the heat. If it gets too hot in there the bondwires might desolder themselves from the star. However, the thermal sensor on the driver should protect against this. Hopefully. I never had any problems with overheating on my pure Ti FW3A so the FWAA should probably be fine.
For pure copper my concern is a bit different. The copper might transmit the heat just a bit too well. Sure it can probably run on turbo longer… but the entire light will heat up at a similar rate leaving no safe place to hold the light. You might need an oven mitt to run it on turbo.
Ti-Cu might be the sweet spot. Good heat conduction from the star, while the back end of the Titanium body tube stays cool so you can actually hold the thing when the head gets hot.
Orderd a copper nichia 4000k fwaa
Thank you for your support! :beer:
Any chance to get not engraved?
I doubt so. Unless you are talking about bulk order exceeding of several hundreds of a same model.
want
He has a lot of nice glow product ideas
I dont mind paying for quality work… cry once…
I just cant cut three perfect circles by hand…, so to make my own glow gaskets would require making molds and jigs, or buying stamping tools, etc…
for diy on a budget, I agree glow tape works well enough
for my Fancy FWAA w Sapphire Lens, a glow gasket would be most attractive to me.
Pity. My FW3A from groupbuy arrived clean.
Mike