Yes, most people should know that the positive always goes in the tube first and the negative goes towards the tail cap. Even though Lumintop has that picture above, I think they should make it a bit clearer.
Generally it could be said that most of my exsitance is an example of “Operator Error ”. If I fried my new flashlight it would have been because I was simply not paying attention to what I was doing.
I think every flashlight that uses lithium ions should come with a salesperson. Few people pay attention to signs. You should see how many people blow the red light at the off ramp by my job
I was used to push the battery positive into in the tube then screw the tail cap on my other lights ... except D20 has no tail cap and is filled "by the mouth"
For "electrical" (as opposed to mechanical) polarity protection, one has to insert something in the current path and this something will add resistance.
The "something" may be a simple diode but then the voltage drop is pretty high or something more sophisticated with MOS and polarity detection circuit but even the best MOS still add some resistance.
A very common theme in circuits is that they can be explained with a water analogy.
Battery protections are all basically valves.
A bathroom faucet can block or pass a small amount of current.
A bathroom faucet can block but not pass a large amount of current at a low pressure.
A creek sluice gate can block or pass a large amount of current.
In this scale — 7 amps in electronics the size of a coin — you need more of a sluice gate than a faucet. Not impossible but not trivial either.
It’s easy to become spoiled by modern high-performance devices and forget that the electronics are becoming somewhat brutalized by current to size ratios.