Hank, a little copper heat sink on top of the mosfet helps keep it from overheating and stepping down. Typically not a problem unless you’re running the ramping mode with an e-switch light and use levels up towards the top end quite a bit. Every little bit helps though, and I’ve thought about doing that with mine from time to time, but so far it really hasn’t seemed necessary.
I stuck a piece of copper on the 7135 chips in this MT-G2 mod back in August of 2013. Seems to have worked, the lights still working…
Yeah, DBCstm explaind it right, sorry for not responding earlier
I had that LD1 issue in Y3 host, and solved it with just a tiny piece of Cu( from a damaged 20mm Cu XML star PCB)
Would someone be so kind to point out where one can get suitable driver brass pillars? Back in 2013 i ordered some from FT, it was for an audio preamp project, they are out of stock atm…for maybe a year already
I just picked up a 3’ long 3/16” brass rod from the lumber store (Lowe’s, here) and cut off a piece with large pliers. Then mount it in a drill and cut it off at the length I need with a rotary tool. Spinning it while using a hack saw would do the same thing, keep the end square.
agarb, I just used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and glued it in place on top of the 4 chips. Pressed down firmly to ensure a thin layer between the copper and top of the chip, with enough ooze to firmly adhere it in place. Could also completely pot it with the copper on the heat source.
Would 3/16” brass brazing rod for gas welding work? Some of you guys might have to find someone who welds that uses rod that size and get some nubbins.
I need an advice: for the 18650 flashlights, LD 1 driver and batteries
How does LG D1 4.35v one perform over VTC5 and Samsung 25r? Is there any point in getting them? Never tested D1 before…
As for 26650 LD1 based lights, i `ve found that :
KP IMR 4200 Black> Efest IMR 3500 Purple > Efest IMR 4200 Green > KingKong 4200 from FT> Trustfire 5000 Protected, the difference between first 3 isnt that big btw