FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Ok so I did do a side by side comparison and to my eye the eo3h is slightly warmer, so I’d say you’re right with your guess at 4000k.

I definitely have to say though, @ToyKeeper did a stellar job on the iu,
I can’t stop playing with it, :smiley:
Now that I’ve slept on it I’ve realized that a significant part of my disappointment is that candle mode doesn’t look that good in a neutral white tint,
Though I did have some lighting gells laying around,
I wonder if a piece of CTO can fix that…

One dead flashlight, manufacturer error. TWO dead-on-arrival? You must be doing something wrong. Cheack the troubleshooting thread. Maybe your batteries are too long.

Battery stickers maybe?

Please list details of exactly what you did, known good batts, etc., maybe we can help. I got the 3D and 7A and one was DOA but the driver retaining ring was loose - tightened up and never gave me a problem again.

Well that’s a bit of a mystery. I run my light in stepped ramping (not smooth). When I switched to muggle mode, it showed smooth ramping instead of stepped. Triple click would not switch from smooth to stepped. When I took the light out of muggle mode, it remembered that primary mode was set for stepped ramping. So I’m really puzzled how you got into stepped ramping while in muggle mode. :sushi:

Hi…. Go HERE . Read it, do what is says, and hopefully that will fix you up. :+1:

If you have not already, be sure to READ & DO exactly what is said in post #1 & post #2.

It would be a good idea to read all the first 7 posts.

The likelihood of you getting two, truly DOA FW3A’s; is very slim.

Keep us posted. :+1:

Inclined to agree it’s operator error, but one shows no life and the other immediately goes to 100% with no control as soon as threads make contact. I’ll be continuing in the troubleshooting thread as my details are already posted there, unless I run out of options. Then I’ll be back to cause trouble here.

Two known good 30Q, cleaned threads, tightened tail cap in order, both retaining rings tight on arrival, loosened then tightened both to confirm driver alignment, disassembled and reassembled switches, checked and cleaned switch contact tube, swapped heads and tails between bodies. Problems follow each head - one has never illuminated with either switch and tube, x the other has always gone to 100% with no control.

Ahh, ok. The one goin to 100% sounds like a short if it goes to 100% without even activating the switch. Not sure how comfortable you are with looking int to the head, but the easiest thing to check is the wire connections to the MCPCB perhaps, if you are ok with removing the bezel, then getting out the optics - should give you a clear view of the wire solder connections, and then inspect for anything loose, bare wire, ground shorts, etc.

Also from the back of the driver, be sure the brass colored ring around the edge of the driver is not making contact with the driver retaining ring - they need to be separated. That ring on the driver is for the black inner tube contact for the switch signal, while the driver retaining ring should be the batt- signal.

I had a similar issue, I removed the clip and straightened out the ring as it was slightly deformed and caused the tail to feel tight but not sit flush.

Thanks, TK.

Any chance of making the driver blink out a self-identification including a revision number?

I think it was decided that because of constant development there are too many revisions for it to be helpful and it would end up being some confusing series of a lot of blinks for not much real benefit.

Thanks for the answer Jason. It was more a theoretical question that practical as I wouldn’t polish it for sure. No tools nor know-how! I just wanted to perceive how the materials would change and how it would look after polishing !
Thanks again :+1:

Does anyone know how to track shipments from Neil’s Gadgets? I was provided with a number and I am used to tracking packages from abroad (Asia, Europe, Russia) but can’t get any services to recognize the number. Thanks in advance.

Try this:

I had good luck with ALL-IN-ONE PACKAGE TRACKING | 17TRACK. Keep in mind that there’s a DHL hand-off to USPS near the end (in the USA that is) and the USPS website doesn’t track it. You will see updates on 17 Track.

I haven’t been to SF in a long time. How’s the sygyzy club these days? Is the giant octopus still alive?

I got notification from DHL that my FW3A should get in… by the end of May, I guess a month wait isn’t the end of the world right?

So I got thinking, if I don’t want to stick with my tint, or I just REALLY want the LH351D emitter, has anyone done emitter swaps already? I was looking at: (3) Samsung LH351D 4000K 90+ CRI LEDs on 20mm 3XP MTN Copper DTP MCPCB but wasn’t sure of the size pcb I’d need.

Anyone got advice on that? Full disclosure: I am something of an idiot.

That should be compatible. That will come with wires pre-soldered on that you wont need but no big deal. If you have a little soldering experience it should be fairly straightforward.

I never got my tracking number to be recognized. I eventually got my light though!