add me - one at LH351D
Toykeeper, you have mail
Edit: You think it is long? Then don’t open the PDF
Looks good! I finally got round to playing with Anduril last night and figured most of it out from looking at the diagram and reading anduril.txt. I got stuck in muggle mode for a while because I thought I was in momentary mode but that’s definitely user error . The only things I would’ve added are brief explanations and default/min/max values, which you’ve done!
This part might be a bit confusing.
At first I thought you could set the Floor between 1 and 150.
Then the Ceiling was only settable between 120 and 150.
But that’s not right at all. 1/150 means 1 OF 150, not 1 TO 150.
So the Ceiling can be any of 150 steps, but the default just happens to be at 120.
Trap for young players.
Thank you! Do you mind if I translate it into German? I'm not sure if joechina is already up to creating something comparable (printable pdf in a nice layout).
I would like a second light as well to give to a friend at work. Please add another light for me.
The last prototype looks amazing in grey.
Therein lies the problem though Jason, she DID state default was set at 1/150, so any REASONABLY intelligent individual would see that the term default showed 1 out of a possible 150 steps, so how do you idiot proof for all the different idiots? I know my own idiocy can, many times, be quite different from the normal… just saying. Once you start configuring the light it becomes pretty evident.
And with this adjustability it becomes easy to set the momentary in lockout to whatever level suits your fancy. It is also easy to set the stepped mode for however many levels one wants, one or three or whatever. So it can suit the needs of a lot of different appetites.
Stepped mode can’t be configured for one mode. See here but you could probably set the ramp min and max values to the same level and effectively have a 1 mode light.
As to optical sensing….
Oveready Boss / Lux-RC use this feature to accomplish more than programming.
When the light accidentally activates, it’s usually in a confined space (i.e. pocket) and that space reflects a lot of light back towards the head. They sense this light and act upon this knowledge ( I don’t remember how, but I remember they do it wrong ).
Anyway, it’s the best solution to the problems with accidental activation that I’ve seen.
Now….would it be possible to port it to FW3A?
I don’t think so, you can’t drive a LED and make it sense at the same time. It works on Lux-RC because they have an auxiliary LED that they use as a sensor.
But we have more and more lights which feature aux LEDs as well…
Can we just stick with programming pins + USB for the foreseeable future? We aren’t going to make a Lux-RC clone with $0 budget at a random Chinese factory
And I’m wondering what the people that want it all would be willing to pay ToyKeeper to write it up… so far it’s a VERY
Thank you again ToyKeeper for all that you do.
I bet that question puts things in perspective.
It’s kinda interesting to read about, but in the ’real world’ how many people would even use the features that have been mentioned??
I’m thinking, in the big scheme of things; not very many.
Most of this was addressed about a page ago: FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #6228 by ToyKeeper
OTOH, I’ve heard it’s difficult to configure the sensitivity in a way which doesn’t get false positives or false negatives. I’ve heard the reflection sensor has a tendency to either fail to detect reflections from dark surfaces, which are the most likely to start fires… or a tendency to trigger itself when it shouldn’t. It’s neat, but due to the light-absorbing and heat-absorbing properties of black matte materials, the types of surfaces it really needs to respond to are exactly the ones it has difficulty with.
I think that is exactly what the Oveready Boss does.
I’m not sure the default values really fit in a generic manual though, since they are different for each model of flashlight. A lot of options really depend on which light it’s being used on. So I mostly tried to write it in a way which can be copy/pasted into the middle of a printed user manual with only minimal need for editing.
That’s the first report of how it works in practice that I’ve seen. Thank you.
I’m interested. Looks great!
I am in for 1 please! Reading back through I didnt see my name on the list. My wife is gonna throw me out of the house soon, also waiting on a Convoy L6 and an Emisar D1s……. Really debating the D1s since I keep hoping Hank will do a 26650 or 27700 version like with the D4s….