LMFAO
but seriously, if it has a clip on the tube, how can it possibly be considered slippery? I mean I get it, but you are now just complaining about the tube material and surface not the grip anymore.
For anyone interested. Ordered April 27th arrived in the UK today. Delivery in 24-48 hours. Super excited! Thanks to all involved
“Your parcel has arrived at your local depot”
Mine arrived this morning, 6 days after the day it was sent, not bad at all for china post!
As first impressions, it seems to be a much better edc than my d4, thinner and lighter.
Also, I find that the firmware works much better than my d4, specially thermal regulation. My d4 (219c) with stock firmware is more inconsistent, sometimes it becomes very hot even with a lower temp set, and then overshoots. My FW3A (7A), when calibrated, and set in my case to 45C, steps down fast and mantains an stable power, and a warm but not burning hot outside temperature. The d4 works very nicely, just have to take a close look, but the FW3A seems more optimized. The extra modes and features are also very nice and cool. ToyKeeper has done a really good job, and the firmware is what in my opinion takes it to the next level.
Overall, I like it more than the d4 as an edc (I also love my d4), it feels more refined in many ways.
Edit: Forgot to mention that the retaining ring was untight, it was the first thing that I checked, and tightened it. My tailcap was nice and tight.
Are you using turbo or the preconfigured ceiling?
I am using turbo (double click from on).
When set to 50C, I found it was a bit too hot for me, but with 45 and holding it tightly it works very well.
For reference. My April 26 order still hasn’t SHIPPED.
Got 2 today from the mailman (Netherlands)!!!
Could somebody please give me some advice for the best 18650???
Sure. For this light Sanyo/Panasonic GA, LG MJ1 or Samsung 35E, unprotected flat top.
Same here.
Got mine today, I’ve spent much more for lesser flashlights. What an accomplishment for all involved.
This flashlight is a milestone and many great designs will move forward on it’s success.
The rear switch signal switch has been done before but never quite like this.
Others have had anodized threads and relied on the ends of the battery tube for the negative signal. The FW3A smartly uses the huge, bare metal threads to carry that to ensure that the switch signal tube always makes a good connection. I won’t link to others pictures but Liteflux had both battery negative and switching signals attempting to connect at the driver. Worked ok most of the time, except when it didn’t. Novatac uses a wonky giant spring for the switch signal. Same results.
The FW3A eliminates one point of failure and in doing so strengthens other connection points. Brilliant!
I’ve turned into a clip snob and was sure I’d be replacing the clip, but the stock clip is great and this one will stay on my D4.
Thanks to all who’ve helped get this light out there!
clip idea from emarkd comment 1713 in TK D4 review.
The miraculous force of whining! Now I have a tracking number. Much better than nothing 
I just got my tracking number (no results yet) and I’ve been staring at some 35e cells while waiting for something to put them into I got to thinking, should I order the mtn triple with 219c’s (link) or do I try to source some high cri 219b’s?
My FW3A just arrived in my mailbox.
would this be the right optic to replace with? 10509 Carclo Lens - 3-Up Frosted Wide Spot LED Optic
has anyone replaced one yet? Is it just a matter of taking the head off, lifting out the optic, and replacing it with another? Would this 10509 give additional flood or not? Noticeable?
thank you for any help……
Yup that one should fit just fine. Unscrew the bezel (the portion of the head above the knurling). Lift it and the lens off. Then lift out the existing optic with a toothpick, paperclip or small screwdriver.
Insert the new optic and reassemble. I think the 10509 should be slightly floodier than the one the light comes with.
Interesting. I measured the two as being slightly closer together:
- 3D: 904 lm
- 7A: 727 lm
Also, some modded versions:
- 219B sw45k: 622 lm
- XP-G2 3D: 952 lm
These are all at start, at the 8x7135 level. I haven’t made a SST-20 version yet.
A forward clicky is like interacting with a desktop computer by plugging its power cord into and out of a wall socket.
An e-switch is like interacting with a computer by pressing a key on the keyboard.
Ahh, ok, close enough for me! Like 3% or under. Didn't know you rcv'd the production LED's. Neal gave me the impression I might be the first receiving the 7A.
Has anyone got a discharge curve for the battery while the light is sitting unused?
I just went through my earthquake cache and found several of the other brand lights I’d forgotten to lock out, and all had drained their batteries below where I’d want them in an emergency (only got a few minutes before low battery blinking).
Charged the cells and locked all of them out via tailcap.
BUT now I wonder:
Is tailcap lockout advised for this flashlight?
In other news, my China Post tracking number is no longer showing a 2017 delivery to an address in Russia; instead the light is moving around in China. I guess they reuse tracking numbers ….