The glow fobs are small, 22mm x 4.8mm made the same way as the GITD gaskets. I thought it would be a good size indicator picturing them together.
I received my two FW3A lights on 5/28 after ordering on 4/29. Overall I’m pretty impressed with the aesthetics and I love the UI. You have to make sure its screwed together tight though otherwise the button loses contact, or “bounces” causing false clicks. It would be cool to machine a spiral cut on the sleeve to give it more compliance to stay in contact with the board, but that is another operation. If the compliance could be increased it would be much easier to keep the button electrical path in good contact.
I unfortunately received a FW2A instead of a FW3A for the 3D tint. I already emailed Neal to hopefully rectify it but it is what it is.
The FW3A has a known fairly large tolerance on its voltage measurments due to limits of the MCU. I don’t remember the exact specification, but I know one of my lights based on the same MCU measures 0.2V high, while I think another was within 0.1V last time a checked. Consider the voltage the light reports to be approximate.
You can not safely charge a lithium-ion battery with that large of a tolerance. Battery manufacturers specify charging tolerances of +/- 0.05V, so the charger should be at least that good.
But a digital multimeter can confirm this. From talking to calibration techs at work, even the cheap Harbor Freight meters are usually accurate to something like +/- 0.02V, except for the caveat that most digital multimeters read high if their internal battery falls below 6V.
That looks neat saypat!! 
. Is that one of those ‘vape ring’ things??
thanks Teacher. I thought the contrasting colors looked good. It’s just a piece of cloth. Trying to find some way to embellish the light 
I mentioned liking purple, so Bluzie made one in photoshop…
I think it was based on a color sample I found:
I love it! I would get another if it looked like that. Just got mine. 1 of each initial option. Both worked out of the box. The only thing I’ve done is the thermal calibration. Well that and print a couple party hats.
_
“A piece of cloth”!! Very nice… you nailed it… 
Yeah, I got them off CPF over 10 years ago, only have two working ones left.
Just like you, my FW3A was perfect (after I charged the battery...)
Cheers!
I hope some clever person picks up on Andygold’s GITD keyfob design and starts making them.
As I recall he gave himself bad carpal tunnel from the repetitive work making them
and he never charged enough for them either.
https://www.edcforums.com/threads/gitd-keychain-recommandations.62108/
I would love an option for that when the high CRI comes out!!!
Agreed
Something like this?
CRX Mk II Glow Fob
Or the Mk III Brass 
I received mine today after ordering on 04/28.
The design, build and UI are amazing!
Thank you!!
Received my 219C FW3A today.
The firmware is still the old one, same as my 3D and 7A, no momentary strobes (well, I think they should care about this and update existing drivers before assembling, because I believe many of us do care). So this may imply that the max brightness (level 150) is simply 100% FET driven, and you should be careful of the battery used to avoid possible damages to the emitters.
The tint is beautiful, a little bit pinky, not greenish at all. I’m unable to measure the exact CCT, but I would say it’s 4000K~4500K if compared to my Manker MK34 219C 4000K.
The driver retaining ring in this one appears to be made of brass instead of aluminum, making it much more visible. This retaining ring was already tightened. The tail switch, however, is not assembled well, so I must take it apart and put it back again.
(left to right) FW3A XP-L HI 3D, 219C 4000K, XP-L HI 7A
So…when does the copper/brass version come out?
With people getting such green results from the 3D flavor, I have to wonder if they might actually be 3C tint emitters. Or maybe even a random mix of 3A/3B/3C/3D. Cree normally sells all four mixed together as a generic “5000K” tint.
The 219C flavor looks nice though. I probably should have ordered one.
I have no idea.
I received a copper prototype today, but the parts don’t really fit right and, when I asked Neal, he told me it was an old prototype from last year and doesn’t accurately represent how the copper version will be. So it’s kind of neat, but it also doesn’t really work because it has issues from way back in proto2, only more so. It took half an hour of fiddling to even get it to turn on. And since it’s an old obsoleted prototype I can’t really do anything meaningful for the project with it.
So I think I’ll give it a silly hat and name it Wilbert Stinkyhands.
Pretty much.
I just want a bunch of the clear ones with small split rings on them.