Hello guys! This picture shocked me
So all new fw3a are crap with fet+1 driver from now? Or was it only one batch?
I’m looking for polished titanium short 18350 tube for fw3t
It seems like they stopped production of it and the batch was not big.
I checked lumintops aliexpress, ebay, amazon, lumintoplighting, lumintoponline.com, jlhawaii808, jc customs, illumn.com, nealsgadgets everywhere it is out of stock. Do you guys know where I can check else or whom I can ask about this part?
Lets see if Hank can make a FW1A rival, a sort of mini-KR1.
Let’s call it the LK1A…lumintop killer.
Great, thanks for the info! I guess I’m glad to have a more usable firmware in comparison to fw3a-219?
I noticed that the original temperature settings were very conservative - the light started stepping down at 45C so I changed it to 55C. One more oddity is that a double click from a low ramp level seems to go to the top end of the ramp instead of turbo. I found this out when checking the candela using my light meter. But from the top half of the ramp, it actually goes into turbo.
It would appear that Lumintop has been using varying versions of Anduril firmware, and some are probably “modded” due to weird version check.
For instance, I’ve also note a new HL3A that comes with Anduril 2, with the same firmware 2021-01-25 model 322 (so they use the GT Mini firmware for the HL3A with triple-LED?)
I recently ordered a GT Mini with Osram NM1 LED variant, which came with Anduril (the former GT Mini with XPL-Hi uses NarsilM), but when I tried doing 15-clicks-from-off version check, it blinks out 1969-07-20.
At first, I thought this “1969-07-20” may just be an incorrect flash… but later on I asked someone who got a Lumintop GT3 (3x XHP70.2) with Anduril to do a version check, and it also blinks out 1969-07-20. (earlier GT3 used NarsilM, but later GT3 appears to have switched to this 1969-07-20 Anduril version)
I don’t see any firmware with “1969-07-20”, so my guess is (Lumintop?) may have modded the firmware but the date code was some bogus date…
~
To summarize:
so the new FW3A now comes with Anduril 2, firmware version 2021-01-25 model 322.
the new HL3A also comes with Anduril 2, firmware version 2021-01-25 model 322
GT Mini (Osram NM1) comes with Anduril 1, firmware version “1969-07-20”
later GT3 comes with Anduril 1, firmware version “1969-07-20”
That build date means they (or someone) compiled the sources themselves and didn’t use the build script. It also means they’re probably violating the license.
It’s a value I put into the default code to catch cases like this where someone built it incorrectly. It’s like how a debug version of a program will fill RAM with a value of “DEADBEEF”, because it stands out in a debugger and clearly indicates when a variable hasn’t been initialized properly.
Here’s the version.h file before it gets overridden by the build script:
// this file is replaced automatically by the build script
// set your own date here if you're not using the build script
// otherwise, default to first human contact with the moon
#define VERSION_NUMBER "19690720"
But instead of first human contact with the moon, it’s first Lumintop contact with the code.
If you ever see this date in a production light, it means someone screwed up. Like, someone at that company made a noob mistake. And if they made that mistake, it’s probably not the only one.
This makes me very sad.
I have 2 FW3A’s (first run and one from when the st-20’s first went live) and I love both of them though one of the wires going from the driver to the led board on the XP-L light broke so I’ve been looking into a ti or cu variant, guess now I have to look elsewhere. 
Sounds like an easy fix. You don’t have a solder iron?
The Noctigon KR4 is a good tail switch FW3A alternative. But there is no compact tail switch, single LED, Anduril based alternative to the FW1A.
nope no solder iron, and at this time I’m wondering if it is even worth it though if I can get a fancy replacement board with aux I’ll consider it
Can I put 4xE21A on Noctigon into my FW3A?
Mike
FET will need to be disabled
Thanks.
Also the FW3A is sized for 20mm triple stars. If you want put a 24mm quad star inside you will need to file down the edge of the star and optic.
Centrally grouped “quadrix” arrays could work. I ran a 3500+4500k mix of e17s in my fw1a for a under a frosted ledil leila. Beautiful beam, but the emitters kept getting damaged. Those little things are DELICATE.
That can work, but the FW3A is designed for Carclo optics and only has 7mm of clearance between the star and the lens.
I suppose you could buy a stainless steel FW1A bezel if they are available. Maybe you could convert an FW3A into an FW1A this way. If you can source an appropriate reflector.
FW1A vs FW3A have holes drilled through the shelf in different places for led wires.
Oh yeah.
But fortunately that’s easy to fix. Aluminum is quite soft and drills easily with any hand drill.
I’ve turned my FW1A into a kind of “mule” light but with a lens from a cheappo zoomie flashlight.
I am not using a reflector and I am actually using the FW3A bezel instead of the FW1A (the FW3A’s is shorter so it makes pressure and keeps the lens in place.
The beam is completely round, without hotspot in the center, and it quite nice for close/mid range (max. 30 - 40 m, as it looses throw). I have a Luxeon V2 4000K there, so it is a nice tint although not High CRI.
Something like this, but warmer:
Maybe those “quadtrix” LEDs could be used in the same way 