This light doesn’t have any third party drivers available right now. It’s designed to run three LEDs in parallel all at once, so the multicolored board you linked wouldn’t really work.
JC (from JC Customs) is putting boards with secondary emitters in the FW3A. I know he’s been recompiling Anduril to allow control over the secondaries.
Supposedly it’s just a flag that needs to be set in the source code. I haven’t downloaded it myself in order to see how easy it is to read (and compile).
For anyone who may have missed it… there’s really a simple, cheap, and effective switch boot mod for reducing - or in my case eliminating - accidental activation.
Carefully disassemble the tailcap, keeping track of the ‘nubin’ (tiny, tiny plastic cylinder) but removing it. Then filling the cavity in the rubber boot with a thin rubber disc. I used an random o-ring and sliced piece of silicon wire insulation. I’ve found the best results with a flush fill level. I can imagine slicing a pencil eraser with a razor blade would be a simple DIY option for almost anyone willing to attempt the mod. Reversible and nearly free. Quiets the switch a bit too, but YMMV
Does it turn on? What carcass parts did you keep and what did you swap out ? Maybe I can copy or we can combine :).
My parts might be still good but just don’t know how to troubleshoot it.
Thanks it is very cool and tough, it needs to be where I work…
You can still find them on E-Bay sometimes dirt cheap… but so far just the silver/gold aluminum bezels, the Black bezel is SS and they polish up nicely… wish I could get a hold of a Black NovaTac…or even something similar…
I made extra pills and purchased extra drivers and boards… just in case…
Yes. I’ll do up a small post with a how to… check back later.
UPDATE
I’ve revisited the design for creating a nubbin’ replacement that is simpler and (hopefully) universal. I had gone through many trial and error iterations and just stopped once I found a working combination. Turns out only one part of that configuration is needed. That’s the o-ring. 1/16” nominal thickness a 3/16” ID. Industry size –008.
Just remove the nubbin’ and insert said o-ring into the nubbin’ cavity of the switch boot. Carefully reassemble tailcap following guidelines mentioned in multiple fw3a threads. Enjoy the switch actuation that should have always been.
I did a quick search and they can be found on eBay for $2.50 per 10 shipped to US. Hardware or automotive stores will likely have something suitable as well.