Hello guys! Are there any verified people on this forum who take orders on custom fw3 flashlights?
To be more precise - I want to put lume1 driver + warm xpl-hi U4 8A (2700k, 80CRI) in a 18350 tube. Instead of osram rgb in the centre - one SST-20 high powered led 660nm (deep red on aux port).
It’s a pity that fw3X has no any warm light options.
Or maybe this is not very difficult to made by myself? Is there any basic instructions on web how to attach leds to the driver and do everything proper/where to buy components and so on?
I’m completely new in this party, but I know exactly what I want. 
The mix of your questions, like giving very specific emitter specifications for your requirements but then asking about how hard is the process to reflow emitters… is puzzling.
Reflowing emitters is fairly easy to do once you’ve got the right equipment, have learned from example videos + text pages, then practiced it yourself on a few junk lights. But that’s quite an investment of time and effort if it’s just one light you want customized.
I suggest you visit the Flashlight Modding subsection and post a request there. A few BLF members have reflowed emitters and do it for others. If you’re in Europe, you might want to reach out to CRX, who is quite talented in flashlight modding. He’s in the UK.
Btw, I wouldn’t try putting an SST-20 in the center LED position unique to the Lume1 board. There is no optic for it. It won’t add much more to the output you’ve already got.
If he is just after a floody red emitter then that’s not the problem. The problem is making it high power and then heatsinking it.
skylumen.com is a commercial modder, you might ask if he is willing to change LEDs for you, keeping stock driver
if you want a Lume1 driver, ask Loneoceans if he knows anyone that would do that job for you.
Is that just to run them constantly on or is that to make use of the auxiliary function of anduril?
Do you know what size o ring you use for the body? I’m waiting on mine from illumn so I figured might as well get them now so I’ll have them when it gets here.
I have an SST-20 FW3A, considering swapping out for either dedomed 519A or mix tint domed 519A. Which would be better? How’s the difference in throw and beam pattern?
Yes, see this tutorial on installing the O ring
Try 519a 4500K w dome on. Then dedome them to experience the difference first hand. And then remove the 519a, and try sw45k (it is still the best) 
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Does anyone know if the MCPCB thickness has changed throughout the FW3A run? I purchased an MCPCB from a vendor that says it’s out of an FW3A but it’s 3mm thick. My current one is about half that. I used it for a 519a swap because I wanted to retain the original but the gap it’s created is irritating.
The titanium ones have much thicker MCPCBs than the aluminum.
1 Thank
Did you know that you can use your FW3A like a mule? Simply remove the optic and screw the bezel + lens back in place. The only thing is, the glass appears to be pressed between the o-ring in the bezel and the raw aluminum of the battery tube. The o-ring provides a little cushioning, but you have to be careful not to tighten too much because it could put stress on the glass. I wouldn’t run the light like this as-is for long periods. Probably a good idea to get an o-ring that matches the battery tube and install it on top of the glass.
I’m pretty sure the bezel > glass > optic is what maintains pressure on the mcpcb. Without the optic, you may lose the thermal path and fry the emitters.
I printed some new bands for my SFT40 brass FW3A. The one on the front is there to take up a 3mm gap from the deeper OP reflector and thicker lens, but the one on the back is just for symmetry/grip. Previously I had printed flush versions; these are 1mm over flush in the front and 1.5mm over flush on the back. I didn’t want to go full cigar grip but these should make it a little less slippery.
MPJ, is that this reflector?
That’s the one! Takes a little grinding to get it to fit but there’s plenty of excess material.