FW3A Useful Information.....

Ah, for the days when such lights connected by USB would allow for programmatic access, and a backup of settings. This way if the config ever got screwed up, you reset and simply reload your backup. :+1:

Thanks Teacher and all other contributors.

Just thinking

How to remove driver with pill and Led MCPCBs after unscrewing the driver retaining ring to be swapped with another FW3A/B/T?

I guess it is just by pushing the driver/pill/led MCPCP from head to tail direction or not that simple ?

I want to purchase a few extra FW3A drivers because I mod and break things often. I have FW3A comming soon in the mail so I am unfamiliar with how it works.
I am unable to find where to purchase the drivers directly.

Also, are there other drivers that are compatible? The drivers I have are only the click ON/OFF tail switches.

I dont know what type of switch the FW3A uses. Is it always connected with momentary clicking, or direct ON/OFF, or something else entirely.

You would have to go to Neal or Lumintop directly for this. The driver is eswitch (“direct on/off” = mechanical switch) and an unusual size and placement of the eswitch area since it is not connected via a wire like most eswitch drivers.

Wait, doesn’t FW3A Andúril already have a ‘factory reset’ option? I know a lot of Narsil lights have that. I don’t own a FW3A, so I can’t test.

I believe it does now, but the original FW3A’s don’t have it. I’m not sure if the ones shipping now have the updated firmware with the reset function. Probably, but get confirmation before ordering if it’s important to you.

Yes, Illumn has been checking and calibrating each light. This is an awesome and helpful thing for them to do, but it’d be really nice if the factory would do it instead.

In any case, that makes Illumn the best place to buy from, if you’re in their shipping area.

Not that simple. :slight_smile:

There is a ‘shelf’ between the driver and LED MCPCB. This light is not a ‘pill’ design.

Remove bezel, lens, and optic from head.

Unsolder red and black wires from LED MCPCB.

Remove LED MCPCB.

If you are swapping just the LEDs, you can leave the driver in place. Otherwise, remove driver ring and remove driver.

Clean the old thermal compound from the shelf and the MCPCB. Use a small amount of new thermal compound.

Be careful not to twist the red and black wires when reinstalling the optic/lens/bezel.

Here is a photo from CRX’s FW3A Mods & Teardown thread:

and thank you for that heads up… most helpful regarding this noob’s purchasing decision…

Thank you for great info. Is anyone able to help which emitters should I pick. What are the pro and cons between XP-L HI 3D , SST 20, Nichia 219c for this beast?

Would like to have high lumen, high cri (will this matter?), good flood with enough throw, and keep it low temperature. But I know I cannot have it all.
I don’t have any experience other than XP-G2 S3 with my Mecarmy SGN5.

What is the good balance for overall EDC around the house and night street walk?

I sure do like the xp-l HI 3d’s…brightest of the bunch, “least” heat…

The XPL 3D is not high CRI, but to me, it is the best emitter for this light.

Yes, it’s more neutral white, but a very “clean” tint without being clinical. I find it very powerful and considering the turbo output plus form factor, it performs very well.

I suspect that illumn.com is NOT calibrating the copper version which is vacumn sealed to prevent tarnishing. (There was someone in another thread reporting an electrical contact problem with their new copper FW3 they purchased from illumn. com. Had illumn calibrated that light, I am sure that they would have noticed the problem and fixed it.) But if you are ordering the FW3A, illumn.com is the place to go in the USA. Perhaps, even with the copper version, you should go there, because their custumer service is great should you ever have a problem.

ok… thank you for that referral as well, BabyDoc…

I agree . I was the one with the problem, and it got resolved in a couple of hours.
They are in the USA and ship quickly.
I am certain the copper is not calibrated by them because it is indeed vacuum sealed.
In fact, the clip corroded the copper a bit on the tube. I cleaned it up with a salt/vinegar combo, and a little toothpaste!
I have not calibrated the heat, but it gets so hot so fast you can not keep it above 800 lumens for more than a few seconds.

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Thank you very much for the helpfull info and instructions.

Exactly the advice I was looking for without trying pushing it first and damage the LED MCPCB and the driver in the process.

Much appreciated :-)MonkeyLight

That's correct, we are NOT calibrating copper models to preserve the seal on the light. There should have been a note in each box saying so.

Calvin, can we tell by our order date/order number which version of Anduil is installed on a flashligh?