OMG they are out! Did not see them announced.
Is there a list for the 219b 9080’s. I don’t see any info anywhere so I’ve just been waiting. But if there is a list, I would like to get on it for 10pcs. 
Hello, i have never buy here but will be very glad you to help me to purchase 9pc of 4500K 9080 Nichias, thank you.
Well, just in case it helps - I will take five 9080s.
The were sold out pretty quick last time 
I’m interested in 4000K 9080 if available.
Same with me, but let’s see if clemence can get his hands on them in the first place
I don’t mean to be presumptuous, but it seems like an unofficial interest list is starting.
So if this counts, I would like:
12 x 4500K 9080.
Thanks
Yep. I’m only commenting on it because everyone seems to be pushing for it. I don’t mean to be presumptuous.
I am pretty sure the LED’s can not be reserved. They will most likely be first come, first served once they are actually in hand and ready to ship. It is simply too hard to keep track of things otherwise.
Yep. Agreed. Just like before.
Just got swept up in the madness. 
Those would be awesome! 4000k is my favorite color temperature.
anyone know why nichia 219b r9080 are so rare? is it a discontinued model? I can’t find anywhere else sold this.
I’m not so sure but I think Nichia were good enough with 9050.
When 9080 came along, I jumped on just in case it was a one off batch!.
Clemence would surely have a better reply!.
My opinion: As I’ve been following non flashlight LEDs trend more than portable lightings, the price - performance - cost of 219B is what making it’s not so popular. Portable lighting are just a tiny fraction from the total sales for most LED manufacturers. And the trend is going towards less current - more LED as the LED component’s price in a system is getting so much cheaper compared to several years ago. For example, even those monstrous COB consists of hundreds of tiny LEDs driven at much lower current but at much higher voltage to boost efficiency in 120V or 230V AC/DC driver. Bucking down to 36-60V is more economical, efficient, and cooler running than to 12-24V running at higher current.
When a designer opt for small point source lighting it’s easier to choose 219C for it’s popular footprints and higher performance. In actual real world cases, high 80 CRI is the best compromise between adequate CRI and efficiency - best selling. I see that the biggest market for 219 series is streetlights and coloured lights. Now, ask yourself where do you find a CRI 9080 fits any streetlights? CRI <= 70 is the most common option to reduce energy consumption/carbon footprint, where CRI 80 streetlight is already considered as a premium. But I can imagine CRI 9080 BLF edition streetlight, who knows? I did my scooter with some 9080 just because BLF and (now) Nichia had turned me into a CRI snobs! 3 years ago I would go for the brightest bin no matter how low the CRI is.
When designers use 90+ CRI they usually don’t need high power LED (less than 1 watt power/LED) as more likely they need evenly distributed beam pattern with the easiest and cheapest possible optics available. Rather than using “red enhanced” high CRI (9080) it’s cheaper to just use CRI 95 medium power LED because the spectrum characteristic between them are pretty close if not better. Nichia’s flagship in this niche is the 757 series and the COB series. FYI 757 series designed to run very efficient up to more than 200lumen/watt (real world case) at less than 50mA current/LED.
Note:
- I just realized that the BBL binned version tint is closer to metal halide lamp while the normal “yellowish” tint that most tint snobs here hate, is closer to good old halogen incandescent.
- 219B 9080 only available in warm temp 2700K - 4500K.
- E21A 9080 available in 2700K - 6500K
- 757 series Ra95 available in 2700 - 5000K
With such a small market it’s really make sense that the already limited big players who distribute Nichia don’t stock 219B Ra9080 to reduce dead stock risk in the inventory. Unlike Cree, Osram, Lumileds, etc…, Nichia limits it’s distributor list. Nichia tend to partner directly with manufacturers (let’s hope modders like us included). This further explains the limited 219B 9080 availability.
Below is the spectrum comparison between CRI 95+ (NFSL757G) and CRI 9080 (NVSL219B-V1)
- Clemence
My biggest issue is that most of the tints int he latest nichia products are above the BBL and it drives me up the wall. The 219B still has some tints from below the BBL that are so much nicer to look at.
There is a solution to that if you can accept a loss in light level of 13-14%. I often use a circular piece of this filter (behind the lens) to correct a tint 0.004-0.005 (yc) down across the BBL curve.
Specs is here.
Can be bought here and many other places.
thanks Clemence for your answer!
so the only thing that make the 219b r9080 special is that it has sw45k tint, and nobody care about that except us in BLF
That R95 looks weaker in the blue-green range and deep red than the R9080. It’s probably pretty minor, but I’d have to compare them in person to form a solid opinion.
I agree on the tints, though I find the commonly used 80 CRI 5000K 219C to be very nice on a white wall - a very pure white similar to sunlight nicer than the 90 CRI 5000K. It’s different though when I illuminate anything that isn’t a white wall. The extra CRI makes everything a little more vivid, and the bit of extra green isn’t really noticeable.
This is so interesting! What is BBL, I couldnt get far with google searches.
Also, I notice a shift to green/yellow tint around 0~35 degrees on my Nichia 9050s. Since I put these in line like a light bar, what would be a good way to deal with this? I was thinking of 3d printing a block to cut off the green. I am afraid to use optics because that basically means mixing in that green. What do you guys think?
Is this a good spot to be asking this question?
Here is a picture:
BBL: Black Body Locus.
Type this in google: BBL site:budgetlightforum.com
For maximum blend use colour mixing TIR optics instead of bare LEDs, or smooth shiny reflector, avoid AR coatings too.
Any frosted or rippled surface TIR usually does the job well since 219C has minimum tint shift. Actually 219C is one of the best in terms of tint consistency across the beam even with plain smooth reflector. Some reports 5700K 5000K 9050 to be greenish, people have different green sensitivity. For me the green problem (at lower current level) starts in 5700K not at 5000K. Try to increase the current as this is usually more pronounced below 350mA.
Mixing the green doesn’t necessarily creates greenish colour in your beam. Colour is unlike paint
- Clemence