[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

219C sm273 R9050 vs 219C sm503 R9050
These are my EDC.

Outstanding!
These warm LEDs lend themselves well to full darkness low lumen applications.
iirc you are using Fenix E05 AAA hosts (guessing the lowest mode w 2700k is about 4 lumens)

fwiw the oLight i3s AAA is also a great host. It has a clip that fits on a hat, and a sublumen mode of ~0.02 lumen when modded to 3000k. Very useful, for dark of night bathroom runs.

Just a week ago I had an idea to create another thread in “off chatter topics” dedicated for food porn lovers….

Like with cucumbers and stuff…? never mind…

Must say though, i’m not too thrilled about the 219C 3000K tint.
It’s rather yellow actually, expected more red too, seems like less than R9050.
Maybe it’s just that i miss the extra red in warm tints like 3000K.
But by comparison, i have some Osram Oslon 2700K 95 CRI which do have a lot of red.
It wasn’t specified but those seem to be R9080 and also the tint is more like orange / pink.
(Got some 3500K of them too, but haven’t tested them yet.)

Compared this to the E21 4000K and i get the impression those are rather to the red side of the black locus.
Very nice though. :slight_smile:

…and that’s my ‘anecdotal’ feedback for today :slight_smile:

Yes, oops no, not that kind of porn, it’s that kind of porn.

I haven’t upload any pictures of the E21A sm303 R9080. It’s VERY red compared to those 219C sm303/sm305 R9050. Until the MCPCB arrived I’m not going to test more of these E21A. They’re not the best LED for solder-desolder. The white reflector stuff surrounding the die is too soft. Sometimes the sticky flux residue acts like a hotmelt glue to it.

I’m a high CRI led hoarder, just ordered 8x 219C sm273 R9050 for a Q8 lantern :person_facepalming:

Clemence, Nichia does not make the 219C in 2200K, right?

Djozz, i think you’ll love these:

AFAIK 2700K is the warmest in Nichia’s white LED line. Will ask again later

- Clemence

The first generation Oslon Squares have very good tints, I use a 3500K 80 CRI one in a small EDC and it is very good too. But the output and current handling are way worse than the second and third generation which have too much green in their high CRI versions. Good tint combined with good output and current only gets you to Nichia leds unfortunately.

Nichia has 1870K - 2580K, but not the LED packages which would appeal most of us. Try the product search and opt for “candle like colour”

Anyone have opinions of these?

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1151400

I got one just for s&g, but haven’t played with it yet.

For just over a buk, what do I have to lose?

Wow, those would be really warm! I’m interested… :smiley:

If everything go well with the VR16S1 and VR16SP4 boards, I’ll include the 2000K and 2200K for next E21A batch.

Cool! (i mean warm…)
I’ll definitely try a couple of those.

your words agree with my experience of the sm303, but, I would prefer to see a picture in which you compare your Osram and Nichia side by side in the same beamshot @ daylight white balance, preferably not separately

and thanks for sharing the osram link:

can you show me a photo, since you just completely disagreed with Jerommels comment I quote above :slight_smile:

We do not disagree, the leds on ebay that Jerommel linked are first gen. Squares, and we agree that they have great tint. :slight_smile:

I think they (the old Squares) would do great in a DQG tiny 26650.

thanks for the clarification and education :slight_smile:

how about a photo comparing the LEDs you mention :slight_smile:

I do find the sm303 slightly yellow, but not too bad
I got lucky with one of my sm305, it is slightly less yellow and more pink

From my experience, the 3 step nichias are more likely to be more yellow/green (above BBL) and the 5-step ones are more neutral to rosy (below BBL). The only way to know for sure which side of the black body locus it’s going to be on is to get the ‘70e’ bins (219c sm3070e, sm4070e, sm5070e, etc.) or those 9080 219b emitters Clemence has.

good info, I agree the e bins or B nichias are more likely to be below the BBL, into the pink I like

otoh, every led varies, I have two sm305, one is slightly pink, the other slightly yellow, as are the sm303

a 1/8 minus green filter helps the non pink LEDs :slight_smile:

note about white balance
my photos use auto white balance, so the sw40 being coolest, was captured as white, thus the other led colors are only relative, not absolute
you can compare them to each other, but not to a photo taken with a cooler white balance. the color of the sw40 is different when white balance is set to 6000k than when it is set to a white balance of 4000k as in the two images above