It's a lottery with the SRK's. The Supfire M6 is the light I recommend to folks that want this format of light. Very nice quality light.
Another option would be to pack aluminum foil around the reflector and pill. The tighter the better. May actually move heat halfway decent. Wouldn't go crazy with amping it up though. Not sure what current level to tell you where to stop though. If you get a light meter (they are very affordable) you can measure for thermal sag to determine what is the max current it can take with aluminum foil pack. Maybe someone here has a rough idea off the top of their head.
The reflector is not making contact with the led pcb at all. The led isolators are holding it off. I measured 3.8 amps at the tail cap and the leds are wired in parallel. I measured 2800 lumens with my redneck lumen meter box.
Even though there is only one screw connecting the mcpcb to the reflector, packing foil around the reflector will help in 2 ways:
The larger mass of aluminum foil will absorb more heat in and of itself.
Packing foil up around the reflector will provide more surface area for the aluminum foil to contact. Obviously, the upper area of the head is where you want the heat to go, but the reflector will also absorb and emit some of this heat too.
Yours looks like it has a thread for a screw in shelf, but no shelf. I guess that is why the reflector is glued to the emitters - or else it would be loose.
I had this on a sky ray kung I got off eBay, but mine had no threading there, so was clearly designed to not have a shelf in there.
I got a CPU heat sink off an old computer. The copper was about 6mm. Used an angle grinder to get it to within about 1mm of diameter of tube, then filed it to size. Tapped in the copper with a hammer. Now its excellent. But it was a fair bit of work.
Its not glued it has a screw. It does have threads for a shelf, i wish i knew where i could get one. But if i cant i will use a cpu heatsink also and grind the threads out and press it in, but i really hate to do that. I wish i had a lathe.
Oh yes screwed in of course - I got 4hrs sleep last night! So I guess in the second pic the plastic on the back of the mcpcb is there because their screw was too long without the shelf!
Had the same thing happen when I bought 10 SRK’s (made a thread in the dealer experience sub-forum if you want to look threw how it all played out). You have a PayPal claim for SNAD if the seller won’t hook you up with a heatsink. You can see the treads where it should screw into the head meaning it’s expected to be there meaning item SNAD.
If the light operates correctly in stock form you have no grounds for filing a claim. If the driver output is low it's entirely possible that the LEDs will suffer no ill effects.
Imagine you go buy a new car, bolt on a huge turbo and crank the boost to 30PSI, and proceed to knock all the connecting rods out the side of the block. Then you file a lemon law claim because the factory didn't install conrods strong enough to handle a 300% power increase over stock.
Driver current is not low, 3.8 amps at the tail cap with the tiny tail cap wire. The leds are in parallel, so i would say that is way to much current for no sinks. If the leds were in series then it would probably be ok and the output would be alot less.
It measures 2800 lumens in my crappy light box that i assume is close. My convoy s8 with 10 7135 chips measure 930 lumens and my direct drive ultrafire f13 with sanyo laptop pulls measures 1100 lumens. So i think those numbers are close.
3.8 amps to 3 LEDs in parallel is 1.25A per. 3.8A to 3 in series would be 3x higher and definitely not 'ok'. But at 1.25A each those LEDs will last forever in that setup.
Your analogy doesnt apply because the light is stock.
If you bought a new car half price that the maker had left a rod nut off because they said you didnt need it you were going to be driving slow anyway and 500 miles later it slung a rod cap through the oil pan would you keep it or demand it be fixed?
i would rather spend a little more for something better.
The car with no turbo installed doesn't kick the rods out, just like your light operates as intended in stock form. Perfect analogy. If the LEDs were burning out then you would be right but by your own words the light works, you are just disappointed your new car didn't come with extra beefy conrods. Now suck it up and get to modding.