Agreed:
I like your new multi emitter six-shooter! :+1:
Five days from SHENZHEN, China to Huntsville, AL, USA
Five days from Huntsville, AL, USA to Birmingham, AL, USA (100 miles or 160 km)
Only 750 miles (1200 km) more till it gets to me.
Mine is on the way currently still, but what type of 10440 is recommended for this? Can someone drop a link of a few high quality ones, thanks!
just ordered and shipped mine yesterday, will wait for further shipping updates… 
Mine finally came in today. Very pleased.
Quick question - or two…
Has anyone done the measurements to know how close to 240 we’re getting with a 10440?
And what is the output with a simple AAA?
Anyone?
Actually, 10440 cells are not recommended. I tried one for a few seconds, but after about 30 seconds the light got VERY hot. Stainless steel is not a good conductor of heat, and there is not much mass there to start with. Usage beyond about 30 seconds and you are running a risk of frying the LED and the electronics. If that fits your usage pattern, then have at it. You have been warned.
I used an Efest 10440 when I tested, and in my other 10440 lights.
^too bad i really want to make this precious light attain its max output. 
well, for AAA what is the output?
I always suggest everyone to use AAA in these, as the ~50lm is a very usable amount of light.
This is kind of “do as I say, not as I do”type of thing… I have one with Efest 10440 always in my jeans pocket. With my usage pattern it works pretty well: Usually I use that light only in short bursts and when using it a bit longer well - my hand will tell me when it’s too hot to hold. 
[and I have plenty of spares if I would happen to cook the emitter… - but my UV-modded one is using AAA because the emitter is too expensive to be cooked…]
However, if you are planning to use the light unattended (or without having it tightly in hand), you really should use AAA.
Just got mine yesterday- love the keychain hole and have already gifted one 
I ran an earlier one on a Trustfire 10440 until the cell was visibly losing energy and it didn’t fry any parts but it got very, very warm in my calloused heat-resistant hands. As that seemed to be the limit I didn’t try with an Efest. And I did this only once with only one light just to see the results, as those were for gifting to muggles without LiIon’s. Can it be done? Yes, but I too would advise not going here . It’s a great little light on AAA’s and Li Primaries and there’s no need to push it that hard since there are many other AAA-format lights which will work better with LiIon’s.
I never bother with tracking when buying from Chinese mega-stores. I seriously doubt they actually ship stuff when they say they do and tracking updates always seem to lag reality. I just let it get here when it gets here and so far everything I’ve ordered has gotten here eventually
Thanks _ the _ for bringing this improved beauty back for another GB well-handled :+1: :+1: :+1: :+1: :+1: This is a must-have light and it is becoming legendary already!
Phil
I run all mine with AAA Eneloops, and even at only about 50 lumens output, the head of the light still gets warm after about 5-10 minutes. Not hot, but warmer than I would expect. I presume that’s because stainless steel’s poor heat conductivity means most of the heat stays near the emitter. Like others, I wouldn’t run this light on a lithium-ion for very long.
I’d love to see this light with a 2-mode interface. Low at about 10 lumens, and high being the max it has now.
The problem is not only the stainless steel.
They have a tiny brass pill,which is just fine, but it kind of floats in the stainless steel tube, it’s not threaded and screwed in there.
So there is poor contact between the pill and the body.
Usually hardly a problem when you use NiMH or alkaleaks in normal use (say 30 seconds), but when used longer it will get quite warm indeed.
You couldput some thermal paste between pill and body tube, or maybe solder the outside of the pill with a thin layer of solder and hammer it back in.
I haven’t yet tried either though.
Mine arrived last night. They are truly “seamless”, you can’t see the joints between the bezel, tube, and tailcap at all. Someone above wondered how this is accomplished; it is not nanometer-precise machining. They just wait to do the burnishing (the scuffed texture) as the very last step on the final fully assembled light.
Sorry for the crappy phone pics, I grabbed a light and battery on the way out the door this morning and just took these pics at work.
Wow, that got some comments! Thanks for the feedback folks.
I only use AAA batteries in these and I was guessing somewhere around 50lm, given the comparison to my streamlight microstream which is supposed to be about 45lm.
Definitely plenty of light for the uses that this torch should be used for.
I bought one of these shortly after I joined the forum, and left it in the box thinking I didn’t really have a use for it. Then I was gifted the streamlight and found it very useful even though I really dislike the switch. So I kept looking at my 348 and thinking about change.
Well, the change has been made, I’ve gifted a few for Christmas, and am very happy.
Thanks again _ the _ for making this happen!
Sully
My opinion on the NiMH vs 10440:
On AA alkaline or NiMH, honestly this light doesn’t put out enough extra lumens than the LED on the phone I have in my pocket, so why carry an extra piece of gear that doesn’t really serve a purpose?
(note: this is my personal opinion, I like to keep my EDC setup fairly minimal when possible. I know others prefer to EDC multiple flashlights, one for every conceivable doomsday scenario they could imagine, and that’s fine - for them.)
So I put a 10440 in it and will attach it to my keychain, because with a 10440 it actually differentiates itself from the phone LED and adds usefulness to my setup. If I need constant lighting, I’ll use the 20lm from my phone. If I need 200Lm, I’ll use the BLF 348 and I won’t use it for more than 30 seconds at a time, I know it can’t handle that. Really the 348 is on my keychain for the times when I leave the house without a more powerful light in the holster on my belt - due to the work I do, I frequently have a high-power 1x18650 on my belt as my workhorse.
Nice pics, how did you take it apart? I have considered a 219C LED swap but could not figure out how to get it apart.
Does the bezel screw off? It looks like it was all installed from the rear on my old one but I didn’t look that close.
It just screws apart, nothing special. See the attached pic for the bezel and tail cap turned out one full turn, then you can see where it comes apart.
The brass pill OD measures 10.82mm, the body ID is 10.98mm and it definitely not a snug fit at all. I agree, some thermal paste or something to fill the air gap would help a lot.
The star is aluminum and has some white thermal paste under it. The thermal paste is paste I think, not adhesive, because it was getting on my hands as I handled the pill.
Another observation I had: The pocket clip has a REALLY strong grip on the tail cap, so much so that I think there’s a good chance that removing the clip will scratch the tailcap.
Edit: I just took mine apart and put one wrap of aluminum foil (because I had some on hand from lunch, lol) around the pill and was able to fiddle the pill back in. Can’t really tell much of a difference, maybe if I had another light here next to it I might be able to feel the foil’d light get warmer a little quicker? Or maybe not.
No, it’s okay to remove. I repositioned the clip on all my lights, because I don’t like the way it makes screwing on the tailcap rather difficult. So, I just slid it down to the body section. It’s tight, but you can wiggle it down (or off) without any scratching.
Goes to show how seamless that bezel is, I didn’t even see it when I looked at mine!