Generic 3W Recoil Led Flashlight CREE Q5 - from ebay - Torn down to see how it works.

[ohaya]

@comfychair

I have one with 2.8A 105C (luxdrv .030), dedomed XPG2 on a little sliver of what used to be a Sinkpad. Setting the focus correctly is not fun. J)

When the focus is right it will project a near perfect image of the LED, the wires, the outline of the board, the solder points, everything. So everything but the die itself has to be painted flat black. (out of the box, they are focused on the fuzzy side which mostly avoids that image-projection issue)

Hi,

Thanks. How do you get the reflector, etc. out of the head?

[Chloe]

Ohaya, I have the same Goread light. It just unscrews and the glass reflector is press fit into the aluminium insert:

Goread recoil/reflect lightsaber (CK-36 clone)

Just some pics for now as I don’t have any 18650s yet to make beamshots. ;_; [image] Light came really quickly via CN post, arrived in seven days! For ~5 GBP shipped I was really not expecting much. It has a glass lens (with a tiny scratch!) sealed by silicone ring spacer, two o-rings on body tube, anodized threads, even a lanyard. It was a little dirty inside the reflector part; spotless now after some window cleaner and a spray with compressed air. Next to a Sipik SK-68 clone for idea of s…

[ohaya]

@Chloe

Ohaya, I have the same Goread light. It just unscrews and the reflector is press fit into the aluminium insert:
Goread recoil/reflect lightsaber (CK-36 clone)

I’m probably being dense, but does the assembly come out through the front of the head, because the reflector, etc. looks wider than the opening at the other end, so not sure how it’d come out that way?

[Chloe]

Yes, you have to unscrew the bezel from the head, remove the lens and it should come out that way. Oh, I was missing this picture:

What is the switch and boot like on yours? Mine feels a bit mushy. I’d like to replace the boot but I don’t want to damage the retaining ring.

[ohaya]

@Chloe

Yes, you have to unscrew the bezel from the head, remove the lens and it should come out that way. Oh, I was missing this picture:

What is the switch and boot like on yours? Mine feels a bit mushy. I’d like to replace the boot but I don’t want to damage the retaining ring.

Oh! There’s a BEZEL :)! Sorry, it looked like the head was one piece, and the bezel was even pretty tight.

Does the aluminum assembly come apart? Is it screwed together?

EDIT: Switch on my is “squishy” also…

[Chloe]

Just pull the smaller diameter part of the aluminium “insert”, that holds the mirror. It sort of push-fit. Mine was a little dirty inside but it was easy to clean.

[comfychair]

The assembly is just press fit together, the pic in post #38 shows the bottom driver housing laid off to the side, the glass mirror isn't shown. Mirror is just clamped between the two pieces when pressed together. Get a screwdriver or something in the gap where the wires pass through and pop it apart.

The brass pin the LED is soldered to just drives out, pressing from the lens side. The hole is off center on both mine (same model as O-L's in the first post), so it's a real P.I.T.A. if you want to keep that pin system to allow changing the focus, you have to solder the pin onto whatever new LED you use slightly off center to match the mis-machined housing. One solution would be to drill a new larger hole that's properly centered, and make a new pin out of copper.

edit: Toss that lame spring, replace it with 3/4" copper pipe. Correct length for a good fit is .400".

[ohaya]

@comfychair

The assembly is just press fit together, the pic in post #38 shows the bottom driver housing laid off to the side, the glass mirror isn’t shown. Mirror is just clamped between the two pieces when pressed together. Get a screwdriver or something in the gap where the wires pass through and pop it apart.

The brass pin the LED is soldered to just drives out, pressing from the lens side. The hole is off center on both mine (same model as O-L’s in the first post), so it’s a real P.I.T.A. if you want to keep that pin system to allow changing the focus, you have to solder the pin onto whatever new LED you use slightly off center to match the mis-machined housing. One solution would be to drill a new larger hole that’s properly centered, and make a new pin out of copper.

edit: Toss that lame spring, replace it with 3/4” copper pipe. Correct length for a good fit is .400”.

Comfy,

Thanks for that info!

[DBSAR]

i like the concept of these Recoil Throwers, but as you mentioned the heat sinking is a real issue. if the head was much larger on a larger light, ( say 3 inches in diameter) a two-post support using heat-pipes from a high performance CPU cooler may be the answer, then it may handle an upgrade with a XP-G2 or XM-L2 driven harder.

[comfychair]

The single strut is beefier than you'd think and with an XPG2 at 2.8A the body of the light heats up nicely which it wouldn't do if the LED weren't shedding that heat somewhere. In a perfect world everything would be made of copper... sometimes 'good enough' really is good enough.

For a scratch-build with everything scaled up and built around a 3-4" mirror of course there's no reason not to design it better than this dinky little toy thing. But for this light with just upgraded parts the stock housing works fine.

[ohaya]

@Chloe

Just pull the smaller diameter part of the aluminium “insert”, that holds the mirror. It sort of push-fit. Mine was a little dirty inside but it was easy to clean.

Hi,

In that other thread, you were guessing it was using an XR-E emitter, but did you ever figure out the actual emitter? I’m wondering if just swapping in a 2.8a 7135 driver would be ok/better than original?