Do you mean that you’d wish the default is not the Auto mode but the Manual?
then how many Amps of default is better? 0.5A? 1.0A?
Auto or Manual as default? Maybe a toggle switch on the side or bottom would be a good way for people to choose Auto or Manual as default. I would set mine to Manual.
Maybe 1A would be good start. That is a common 18650 charging rate.
I don’t like that my 30Q automatically start charging at 3A. That is a safe charge rate for them, but it’s stressful. I usually set them manually to about 2A. They are only 3000mah, so they still charge in about the same time as my 26650 5000mah at 3A. I might be paranoid on that one. Maybe 3A for 30Q is just fine.
(30Q:
standard charge rate - 1.5A
rapid charge rate - 4A)
No, I meant— are the poorly-welded button tops from Mountain Electronics safe to use “as is”?
Lexel my charger has a laptop looking power brick in the charger cable.
Maybe 1A would be good start. That is a common 18650 charging rate.
I don’t like that my 30Q automatically start charging at 3A. That is a safe charge rate for them, but it’s stressful. I usually set them manually to about 2A. They are only 3000mah, so they still charge in about the same time as my 26650 5000mah at 3A. I might be paranoid on that one. Maybe 3A for 30Q is just fine.
(30Q:
standard charge rate - 1.5A
rapid charge rate - 4A)
[/quote]
+1 :+1:
I also charge at 1.5A
0.5A is fine by me as I have many NCR18650 cells. It all depends what each user has mostly.
I bought C4-12 mainly for my 26650 cells. Works wonders charging 4 of them at once. I just let auto mode do its thing for them bigger cells.
They should be safe. Remember that when you put them in the flashlight they are under a lot more tension than in the charger. So the button tops are pushed harder onto the battery. So it’s possible that the internal resistance goes down to normal levels when inside the light.
The voltage is always balanced among the 4 cells so you don’t have to worry about that.
If some cells still have high resistance while in the light it would just reduce the amp draw a little bit. So if 4 solder top 30Q each draw 4A on turbo in the Q8 equalling 16A total then these cells might only draw 3.5A and only give 14A total. Kind of like the extra resistance you get in a protected cell. I don’t think it would hurt anything. Just reduce max output.
Thank you very much, Jason. 
I finished the solder blobs on Mike’s 30Q’s (and made videos of that as well) and the new results are great. Check out the resistance I’m getting in my C4-12 with his cells.
If you don’t have time to watch, they are:
23, 27, 26 and 26 milli ohm.
That’s pretty darn consistent, I checked a few times and I might see a 35 or 40, but it never got higher than 40. :+1:
:+1: 
If anyone is interested, here are some other videos that I made showing how to do a solder blob as well as installing shrink wrap.
They are not professional videos, but they show the important stuff.
Please put a battery storage function on it. It would be nice to load the charger with cells, hit one button, and have them discharge or charge to 3.67v for longer term storage. If you did that, you would be the only charger on the market that did this. (other than the $80 skyrc)
Wow!Nice job Jason and thank you 
I’m thinking you all were right about the bad button tops.
Btw…. what were you getting before you did the solder blobs?
Answer in post 481.
Lol teacher I am and think we all are a little crazy
Crazy can be fun and yes very great detective work Jason! Thanks for the help, I haven’t soldered in years and honestly forgot how. My old solder kit broke on me when I was in middle school but that don’t matter.
I think so too Mike, at least I know I am……
Lol. Might explain why i got the crazy cells 
:+1: