Thought the flashlight was bigger (glad it’s not!), and is super light weight, at least comparing with the others I have (Manker E11, Amutorch S3, and Sofirn SF10!
The fluorescent head cap is a bonus
I’m not sure about the twist feature, as it is my first flashlight with it; I have to try it further. The nice thing is that it works twisting the head, twisting the flat tailcap, or even twisting the head with the clicky tail cap :sunglasses:
The Sanyo UR14500P (flat top, unprotected) works well! I’ll probably use it with it or a Ni-MH Panasonic Evolta, depending on the output needed.
About the tint…yeah, it’s not the greatest. A warmer tint would be preferable! But it ain’t the worst ever.
PWM on Low and Medium settings (through camera).
I have the Sofirn SP10A and SF14 on the way, gonna compare them at arrival! Let’s see how companies are doing these AA/14500 lights with different budgets/prices. :+1:
Mine does fine in all modes. Haven’t measured output though.
KP 800mAh protected black w silver label. The top is more of a ‘half raised top’ then a button top.
Thanks for mentioning that. I didn’t like much twisting the tail cap as it’s not very convenient one handed. With the flat tail cap screwed all the way, the head acts as the switch and works well that way. It makes for a shorter light. I like it better like that. :+1:
Yeah, I think is a nice feature too!
But so far, using the clicky tailcap and twisting the head if needed has been my favourite setting, as it allows to switch modes both ways (twisting head, clicking tail)! I just don’t know (and can’t test that :person_facepalming: ) if turning it ON through the clicky tail and twisting the head until it is OFF (while switching modes), has any drain.
Despite the things I mentioned before, I’m liking this light! Just wish there was a lowest level (firefly). I would make it my EDC “pronto”!
Twisting the head breaks contact between the battery tube and the driver outer part or head ground thus opening the circuit so there’s no drain even if the switch is engaged. It’s basically two switch in a serial configuration. Both have to be closed for the light to work.
Nevertheless, if LT would offer the Tool AA without the switch tail cap - only the short one, at a cheaper price, i’d rather buy that one.
the AAA Tool changed to No PWM around December of 2015, with the introduction of the Nichia option. You can recognize older AAA tools that used PWM by the lack of centering ring around the LED, and also the Knurling has dimples in the middle of each peak, and none came w Nichia LED.
The NoPWM AAA Tools don’t have dimples and do have a silver ring around the led. Same is true for AAA Maratacs. All AAA Maratacs and Tools that came w Nichia LEDs are NoPWM models, the CuReyLight was the first to offer Nichia in a Tool.
On the AA Tool there is no centering ring, and it has YesPWM. There is no AA Tool with NoPWM, nor w Nichia. The AA Maratac does offer Nichia, but also has YesPWM.