I thought the first post in this thread covered that part, didn’t it?
Note: I recently contact Simon and he confirmed that the new drivers he use have their MCUs locked so you can’t upload your own firmware. Not a problem for me since I can easily replace the MCU with my own unlocked one, but if you’re not good at soldering SMD components then I suggest get an unlocked driver.
About the firmware most firmwares that are stated as reverse clicky will work, if they don;t slight modification in the code will make them work.
Thanks for clarifying some of the points… I haven’t done my homework, I did read the first post, but haven’t checked out the linked pages, plus I have little (or almost none) knowledge at the moment about flashlight drivers… (my notion of “flashing firmware on flashlights” is like flash-updating a PC’s BIOS firmware, or updating the wifi-router firmware, or updating the firmware of YZXStudio USB meter… which I have a little experience of)
So it seems I couldn’t fix the too-fast ‘timing’ issue of my Convoy S2+ Desert Sand Biscotti if that’s the case… 8-( That was one of the first reason I want to learn about flashing flashlight firmware.
The Convoy S2+ (old firmware) uses reverse-clicky tail-switch (this Convoy comes from GearBest flash sale, so I’m guessing they might be older stock and maybe have the still unlocked variant?) How do I confirm if they can be flash-updated with a different firmware? (pardon if there are some points I still don’t understand about flashlight firmwares…)
You could fix the timing issue for your S2+ biscotti, there was another thread here in blf explaining about that, just some modifications in the code it seems.
How do you know if your mcu is unlocked? just upload the code and see if it works.
even if it is locked, you can simply swap the mcu with an unlocked/blank one like I do.
Beware that the S2/S2+ has the driver soldered to the pill (there’s a pic in this review thread) and it can be an absolute pain in the butt to get it removed! (The pill acts as a heatsink pulling away the heat from your soldering iron.) The mcu is on the underside of the driver so you have to remove it from pill to flash. I would suggest you try something like a Convoy M1 that uses a retaining ring to hold the driver rather than solder. For practice and testing purposes you can also simply mount an LED to an old computer heatsink and wire a Nanjg driver to it leaving it dangling (I do this to test my flashing results). Yes, you will want a selection of good tweezers and possibly “”snap-ring pliers”:Amazon.com .
I would recommend trying out “STAR” firmware as it’s pretty basic and easy to adjust modes and such.
Um, but my Convoy S2+ Desert Sand w/ pre-installed Biscotti firmware (that has the too-fast timing issue) was bought direct from Convoy directly (Simon), how would I know that the driver will not have the same issue?
In contrast, the Convoy C8 Clear (also pre-installed with Biscotti) that I bought from Banggood had a normal timing. That was how I discovered that my S2+ Desert Sand operates a bit differently — its timing is too fast, making it very difficult to change modes (because the time in-between-clicks when in ‘configuration mode’ is too short), unlike the C8’s Biscotti where there’s no problem changing modes.
But I’ll try checking out Simon’s Convoy store again for the drivers you mentioned…
~
I have another question, from the flash sale/discount code (I’m spending too much on flashlights now…) in GearBest, aside from the Convoy S2+ (old firmware: 5/3-mode groups), I also got Convoy C8 with old firmware: 5/3 mode groups. Any idea if these C8 old firmware can also be flashed to Biscotti or other firmware? How easy/difficult are they to remove for flashing? I’ll start to get some tools as mentioned above, and hone a bit of my soldering skills…
I thought you said you bought it from Gearbest in post 352. My bad. If it came from Convoy then that is worrying. They got the C8 drivers slowed down and fixed, now it seems the same issue is happening with a different light. Have you contacted Simon about it? What did he say?
The C8 use a larger driver with a retaining ring so they are easy to remove compared to the tiny drivers that are soldered into place on the little lights. Snap ring pliers make it easy to work with. You may need to unsolder the emitter wires to get the driver to drop down enough.
Sorry, I’m not much help here. Maybe others will give more exact advice.
:+1: :+1: Thanks for the link to high voltage arduino programmer, saves me the effort to replace the mcu. This is most likely the case since I’m sure I have seen others complainin about incorrect fuses being set making the mcu unprogrammable.
Are you talking about Convoys 8x7135 driver? I only heard from wrong fuses regarding the BLF A6 driver from Banggood. To reset this driver with high voltage programming it is necessary to remove the OTC (capacitor) termporarily.
Wanna thank everyone that contributed to this thread!
Flashed my first tiny13a today and was successful on the very first try.
Flashed from cmd, on a win10 ×64 using warhawk instructions and RMM bat file.
Used gchart ramping_ui on an old 105D. Pretty cool ckicky UI.
I did, but I’m not sure if I worded it properly and he understood what I was telling him about…
(sorry for my writing, which has been a bit confusing, but to make it clearer:
- my Convoy S2+ Desert Sand = bought directly from Convoy AliExpress sometime September 2017 = pre-installed Biscotti with too fast timing
- my Convoy C8 Clear XP-L Hi = bought from Banggood sometime September 2017 = pre-installed Biscotti with normal timing
my (not-yet-arrived) Convoy S2+ and Convoy C8 (just generic ones with old firmware 5/3-mode groups, according to product description) ordered from recent GearBest flash sale, still waiting for them to arrive, was planning to use these for experimenting with firmware flashing
i am having trouble
i am having an arduino r3, i already uploaded “arduino as ISP” sketch to the uno;
i connect that arduino uno to attiny 13, all pin is connected correctly
i use avrdude that came with arduino ide
when i type “.\avrdude -p t13 -c arduino -n -P COM6”, this is the result
i dont know what is the problem, my guess is somehow the avrdude read the signature of the atmega328 on uno, not the attiny 13 i hooked to arduino uno
can someone help me, already did some research on Google, no help
