The 10v version I can find but the 25v is what I have been using and is what seems to be drying up.
I think I saw a 33uf 16v version on my search somewhere and maybe what I end up going with.
I’m going to try a xhp35.2 someday with this driver so I’ll need 16v or higher with it. Seems kind of counter productive though making less lumens but I guess more throw.
China specs are usually not up to spec . I ordered from 2 different places on ali, I’ll let you know how these are if you haven’t ordered anything when they get here. I payed extra for e-packet so it shouldn’t be to long. Still was half what I paid for my last order with tti for 16 capacitors.
I figured I will probably end up using the 16v. I don’t want to buy any 10v because I may end building a few to run a 12v xhp35.2.
Stacking could smooth out the ripple even more if it’s needed. Thanks for the idea . That’s exactly what I did in the V11R mod.
I hope from the 2 ali stores that at least one of them will be a decent capacitor. I payed with paypal so I can always dispute “not as advertised” to a paypal claim.
I’m give it a shot anyway.
I don’t like to wait weeks for components, so I try to order all my parts in the US. But the price and unavailability has me looking for a cheaper source.
Edited: I did a little more digging and came up with a better alternative in the US that is in stock. Buy 10 or more to reduce the price.
The loneoceans designed pogoprog boards arrived yesterday. Soldered on the pogo pins and the header pins. I’am only using the board to make the connection between the usbasp and the 6 programming pads easier. There’s no need to populate the board, all the pin connections run straight to the header connections.
I use a usbasp and avrdude just like all the other firmware’s.
This is the command line I use with the fuse settings to flash.
Edit the “gxb172.hex” in this command above to what ever name you have given your hex file.
The pogoprog makes flashing very convenient, It can be reflashed by just simply screwing the head off the light and lining up the pogoprog pins to the gxb172 pads and flash. No need to disassemble anything, Nice .
Here’s my set up.
Ah that is good, yes I also use pogoprog but I notice you using thicker pcb? Loneoceans recommended use 0.8mm thick pcb, so you don't need to bend the pogo-pin. I notice when use pogo-pin to flash 841 when it is in brass pill, it is easy to short VCC and GND, so I recommend a small tape on side of pogopin which may touch the retaining ring.
I solder up pogoprog so it can supply 3.3V to VCC, using power from USB. I notice it come with small poly-fuse in case there is some short circuit on board, good addition! So may need to be careful if you only use VCC from USBISP.
Wish I had saw that a week ago. I never even noticed he recommended .8mm pcb. Thanks for the letting me know. I will order a couple .8mm in a day or two.
I was wondering why I had to bend the pins to get it to work.
The usbasp doesn’t seemed bothered by touching the vcc to ground, It just turns off and restarts. I can take a small screwdriver, short the pins, it just turns off, then restarts when I remove the screwdriver.