It would be probably no big deal to switch a pin as soon as the device goes into standby (wand out of cradle for by default more than 10mins), but then you still have to connect some sort of buzzer with less than 20mA or an extra transistor to that pin.
Is that what you had in mind?
1sec per increment is much too slow, I don’t want to wait half a minute to go from 50 to 350. But it’s a bit slower now.
Yes, that’s what I had in mind, a small buzzer…
1 sec is indeed too long, but you got what I mean… Prob I can look through the codes and change them, but prob I am not the only one who needs that…
I’ll see if I can find some time for this.
Did you test the latest 1.43 release? I’m very happy with the speed now, but if you want it really slower, just increment REPEAT_NEXT in the header file: Youyue-858D-plus/youyue858d.h at master · maugsburger/Youyue-858D-plus · GitHub
I haven’t updated yet, but I’ll give it a try. Thanks for the hint.
Just wanted to thank all involved in this project!
I’m on v1.43 with a 20140415 v6.0 with a spare 328p MCU I had laying around, and I used avrdude with an arduino as ISP programmer to flash the v1.43 hex file (couldn’t find my usbasp so I used what I had.)
I didn’t have any success with uploading the .ino sketch from the Arduino IDE, even after using avrdude to set the fuses…I kept getting the rST error. But it’s working perfectly now, and it feels like a very professional unit.
Again, a huge THANK YOU to all involved for your hard work!
Hey guys
This thread might help me do the job on my unit (2013 model), but reading the note; “the popular Atten 858D+ is probably not compatible with this firmware”, I wonder if someone finally wrote a firmware compatible for the AT858D+ ?
No, they seem to use a weird Samsung processor…
Is that Amazon-linked rework station still good for modding?
Link to Amazon posted earlier in the thread.
To help lessen the confusion, here some pictures I’ve taken of the specific board and MCU
AFAIK it’s a 28 pin Holtek chip as seen above
I also wanted to thank everybody involved for this great software and the hard work behind it!
I was looking for a cheap hot air station, found this mod on the web and decided almost instantly to get one, too.
Also made some pictures.
What I changed/did (besides changing the MCU and installing the new firmware):
Can anyone help me with the parts needed for programming? I’m deployed right now and I’ll need to order the parts online. Right now I don’t have anything. I have a programmer and clip for an ATTiny that’s on the way, but obviously the clip can’t be used for the ATMega.
What programmer/chip socket are y’all using? And where is the best place to get an ATMega168?
I asked earlier but didn’t get an answer - is the Youyue that Amazon sells still good for hacking?
Unfortunately it seems all the cheaper hot air stations have the problems with temperature overshoot, etc. so there’s no ready-made solution that’s not really expensive.
All you need is a decent programmer for AVR ATmega/ATtiny chips.
One example: “USBASP” + 6pin adapter (vital). Very cheap on ebay.
If you want to support the creator, get one here: USBasp - USB programmer for Atmel AVR controllers - fischl.de (links to ebay)
These cheap programmers will work fine for this job. I don’t know if it is important or not for future projects you might have, but these devices will not work with 3.3V only chips such as the Xmega.
Important: please get an ATmega168 from a reputable source! I’ve had many users contact me about erratic behaviour and it was a bad chip every single time!
Right, I have a programmer comming, this one from Fasttech, but what do I do to connect the programmer to the ATMega168?
I would have bought the one you linked to if I knew about it earlier.
You could just use a solder-less breadboard.
LOL. It seems I have the very same one Hope yours has got the latest firmware…
You’re asking for how to connect to the chip, so I guess you don’t have fitted the hot-air station with one of my adapter boards.
If you don’t plan to pull the station apart on a regular basis, one way would be to just pull the chip out, maybe replace the socket if it is in bad shape (corrosion…), place it on a breadboard and wire it up there for programming.
Another option would be to solder 6 wires + connector to the bottom side of the circuit board.
I can’t recall the pin-out of the 168, so only ask me if you really want to go that way
Well, I don’t have the Youyue yet. 
I was planning for what to get so that I could program it with your firmware. 
I’ll probably get the ATMega168/328 from Digikey/Adafruit/Sparkfun.
I have a breadboard and jumpers, etc. If I go that way, do I need to add anything? I’m looking on Google Images, and some folks have really complicated breadboard setups. Wish there was a board that had a 28 pin socket and a 10 pin header to connect things directly.
Well, there is this:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/m80CaW1F
The holes are enlarged to hold a 28-pin socket with round machined pins.
Tried and tested.
Huh, guess such a board does exist.
It’s a 6 pin header, not 10, but that’s easy enough to adapt. Even comes with 1 blank ATMega328.
edit - I posted just as you were posting.
This has a 10 pin socket.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATMEL-AVR-Programming-Board-ISP-ATmega8-48-88-168-328-/121701392480