It looks like the resistor is labeled R08, piggybacked on the existing, I'm thinking, or maybe replaced the original? Interesting because it's on the negative LED wire connection -- even though the wire is red... It's a nice bump, but not sure what the wiring setup is in that test configuration, where the meter is measuring those amps. Typically, I was measuring across the switch with the light fully assembled, and you do see a good drop at that point - the solder wick in the battery springs helps, but wondering if solder wick on the two springs making contact to the driver would help as well.
Ohh sorry, so the pics were from him? I'm just really interested in maybe doing this same resistor mod because it's the best of both worlds - power with the best driver (3 mins on turbo, no PWM's on med/lo).
Yep, mine does it for sure. But it’s does it slowly and not so much of a drop. I had it drop at least 5 times during a 22 min video I did when mine was stock. I never seen it drop a single one of those times, and I only knew it did drop by putting it in my light box about every 30-45 seconds. And sure enough, about every 3 minutes the meter would read roughly 6-700 lumens less, meaning it kicked down from turbo into high.
very cool dale - i got my ucl the other day as well - tom built me a new xml2 shocker which should be here friday… and it already has a ucl so now i got a spare
Here’s what was done… This was the message I sent to Dale right after doing the mods…
——————————————————————————————————————-
Surgery went well. Should I send it back to the return address on the box?
What I did and what I used
TexPad CT801 wipes for cleaning the reflector
Wakefield DeltaBOND 155 for mounting the emitter stars on the body
The original Current Sense Resistor was 25mOhm. I added an 80mOhm in parallel with it for 19mOhm total.
This increased drive strength from 3 Amps to 4 Amps.
XML-2 U2 Emitters Installed
Isolation Rings installed on reflector to prevent shorting to wires
Emitter Stars Removed from Body, Crap Fujik Scraped off, Re-Attached with DeltaBOND
Ha PPtk, figured you were the mystery modder , u the man! I just so happen to have 19 spare 1206 SMD 0.082 Ohm resistors from Digikey (p/n: P.082AVCT-ND) - these were pricey, like 90 cents each. Do you think they will do the same? Really close... I used one of these on my TN31 to crank up the amps.
Did you keep the wires and battery carrier stock? Wonder with 20 gauge wires and battery carrier mod, whether I'd get way over 4 amps then, maybe too much. Also, I'm doing XM-L2's on SinkPAD's, AS5 and touch of crappy Fujik on the sides of the stars just to set the SinkPAD's in place. I also sand/polish the pill surface and bottom of stars up to 2500 grit - the pill top has those machining marks/rings.
Ok, did the math - I cheat, used: http://www.1728.org/resistrs.htm. Yours with a 0.08 resistor is 0.019048, and mine with a 0.082 resistor comes out to 0.019159. So in theory, I'm thinking we are adding 24% to the amp limit, so boosting it from 3.8A to 4.7A in theory?
If this is correct, wow, effectively direct drive with a theoretical high limit, because probably 4.7A is not achievable with resistances in the driver and overall circuit. Am I in the ballpark with all this?
4,000 lumens - 200 kcd, here we come... Got really close with a DRY driver Shocker: 4,114 @start - 3,944 @30 secs, 190 kcd on Panasonic PD's... Much better if you could do it with a BTU driver though...
I'm telling you, this thread was overlooked or missed by many.
Awesome light Dale, Awesome work PPtk!
When you think about it, 4,000 lumens is over 1,330 lumens per emitter - it's like 3 super mod'ed C8's all-in-one, and the reflector sizes are pretty close to a C8.
, u the man! I just so happen to have 19 spare 1206 SMD 0.082 Ohm resistors from Digikey (p/n: P.082AVCT-ND) - these were pricey, like 90 cents each. Do you think they will do the same? Really close... I used one of these on my TN31 to crank up the amps.