What is the old speaker, Pioneer, Kenwood or Mach 1 maybe?
Muto has an eagle eye. It’s a Fisher ST-730. I’m running a pair of them off a 50W Ant class T amp. They get plenty loud enough to drown out the CNC mill when no one is home and I can crank it.
Funny, I was expecting someone to comment on the 1405, being a flashlight forum and all. :bigsmile:
Eagle eye? I saw that speaker too!
I didn’t want to comment anything about your shop but since others are doing it I might as well…
What’s with the electric box on the left with the DC fan with the oversized grill? Is that a Bitcoin mine or something?
It’s the power control box for my mill. It’s got the transformer, VFD, relays, servo speed controller, servo drivers, big caps, etc. Control is done through Mach 3 on a Windows PC.
Funny you mention bitcoin mining. I just sold 14 video cards, 5 motherboards, and 4 power supplies for my dad who (almost) got out of the mining game. He’s still got 2 small miners running.
Was it profitable?
If he holds onto his coins long enough for them to quadruple in value, yes, maybe. 
He did gets some handmade knives for the money he got from the video cards though. :bigsmile:
ZOMG! I got my first free item coupon from the email!!! 
YAY!
That LED light is actually pretty cool… especially at that price… :money_mouth_face:
I have one, it’s a nice portable work light with a magnet on the back, and a hanger.
Those two coupons are now on HFQPDB.
I recently noticed the warning sticker on the new hammer we got from Harbor Freight tools.
Notice the first line:
“1. Do not strike any surface other than face.”
According to this, I must not strike any surface, except someone’s face. So this hammer can only be used for smashing peoples’ faces.
Rule #2 reinforces this:
“2. Do not strike against hardened surface.”
So I cannot use this hammer to hammer in nails or pound chisels. Nor faces that are hardened. I can only use this hammer to pound soft faces.
However, since your safety sticker is chipped, per rule #4, you can’t use this hammer anyway and must discard it. 
KuoH
Depending on what you think of “chipped”, all the hammers are already chipped, a lot. Does that mean all Harbor Freight hammers must be discarded instantly? >.<
Oh they actually put the free coupon and 20% off on their website! Not so special anymore…
Only after you’ve paid for it. Before that point, it is still considered inventory.
KuoH
This light looks like it would be very useful. It has a magnet and a hook.
This light looks like it is very hackable. I had an idea to use these as under cabinet lights or flood lights. You can mount them to something and wire a power supply to them.
I got one of those multimeters for free.
After you take it out of the package you will immediately notice that it is lightweight and feels like a freebie (which is what it is). The test leads are really cheap-feeling.
Here’s something interesting: I was at Walamart and I saw a similar multimeter branded under GE (most or all of the GE stuff at Walmart is just chinese stuff branded).
The multimeter was similar but it had less functions. I think it’s a different model but from the same manufacturer.
Guess how much that multimeter cost?
$17! 
Bloody rip-off! What a markup! It’s outrageous! |( I got a better meter for $10 at the Home Depot.
It’s like that crappy non-contact voltage tester branded under GE and priced $10! And it didn’t look like a proper tester, it looked like a freebie kind of thing (just like the meter). It looked like a plastic stick with an LED sticking out, IIRC.
On the other hand, some of the stuff branded GE at Warmart is actually a good price. They sell nylon blank cover plates for 47¢ each, which was the cheapest I could find until I discovered Cooper blank cover plates at Lowe’s for 39¢ each or something like that (unfortunately lowe’s is not close by).
As I have been saying, that “Harbor Freight” meter is everywhere. Based on the “830” Chip On Board” digital to analog converter.
Here is the “Harbor Freight” meter with a black case in kit form from BangGood.
You can either get this meter for free, with coupon, at HF. Or you can try to save some money and buy it in kit form at BG for $6.61 :Sp
The black dot is the chip on board (COB)
The parts to be soldered onto the circuit board. Notice the current shunt.
^
Very interesting. Kind of cool to see the circuit board traces and components like that. Thanks for sharing.
Sorry for the off-topic, anyone aware of a cheap, reliable device for calibrating our DMM's for DC voltage?
I test mine in a few ways. A new primary cell should be close to 1.5V, a fully charged NiMh should be at 1.2V after a days rest from charging. A good car battery should show 12.6-12.7V after an hour’s rest after driving long enough to get a full charge. This will eliminate most ‘dud’ meters.
For real testing I wait till the electrician is on the job with me then I borrow his Fluke meter to co-test with mine on whatever DC sources I can scrounge and on the AC house current too. I also have one DMM which has been historically quite accurate tested against several different Fluke and Simpson meters. Not a guaranteed calibration but Fluke and Simpson make very good meters so I feel safe enough doing it this way since I’ll be close enough for what I do.
Phil