In europe consider the armytek c2 limited edition from armytek.com.pl
3000k high cri. Latarka czołowa Armytek Wizard C2 Limited Edition USB v4 - Armytek
Merci pour le partage mais ca dépasse mon budget.
This is just me (there are many ways to approach this!) but I’ve got a Lucifer S2X (13°/20° iirc) on my head and a Kogalla RA on the waist running at about 75% output (5 hour burn on their small battery pack).
Love the Lucifer for the combo of distance and flood (doesn’t have that bouncy spot effect), and the waist light highlights the terrain.
They served me well in my last trail race, which had about 13 hours between sundown and dawn.
This isn’t really a budget solution, though. I think of it as two pairs of shoes that don’t really wear out.
Super matériel. J’avais posé la questions du petzl actik core 600l car je peux l’avoir a 10€ neuve !
Does anyone have the olight perrun 2? is this a good headlamp vs armytek??
That has a small battery that for your desired 2 hours, isn’t even good for 250 lumens, which it can hold for only about 1.5 hours.
Skilhunt H04 is an old popular headlamp here. It’s lightweight; you can get the popular-around-here 519A emitter; it can probably do around 350 lumens for over 2 hours based of several reviews of the magnetic rechargeable version; and it’s way under your $70 budget, only $45 for the non-rechargeable version. I’d maybe avoid the rechargeable version because of some reviews that complain about the plastic holder uncomfortably digging into the forehead.
If you don’t mind doing some modifications, the ~$20 Sofirn D25L has good emitters (high CRI LH351D) and this generic (from a bunch of brands like Sofirn, Boruit, etc) D10/D25 is well liked on BLF. It’s not a regulated output, but will still have a decent output at 2 hours being an 18650 light. The main thing would be to make it stable for running. I have a similar “D10” that I found last spring in the snow, and I added an over-the-top strap to make it stable enough for running. There’s a thread here that has a 3D printed holders designs that will work with the light, with choice of over-the-top style or wide band (35mm to 40mm wide) around the head style that would be much more stable.
Can’t tell. You cut off the top part of the runtime graph. ANSI runtime figures are useless without seeing the runtime graph because they count it as running until only 10% initial lumens. What light is this?
It’s not a headlamp but an olight baton 3 pro. olight should create a smaller headlamp than the perrun 2 with run times like the baton
Not sure how well it would work for running, but there are flashlight holders like this:
I tried to rig up something similar for my Convoy S2+, but it didn’t work very well, don’t remember exactly why.
Merci que pensez-vous du graphique de la baton 3 pro?
The 550 lumens for almost 3 hours looks good, but it’s not a headlamp.
I complained about how it looks like you can’t avoid the turbos to get the high sustained modes in the Skilhunt H300, but it still does 450-480 lumens steady for 2.5 hours. Maybe try that or the older H04. Not having tried either, my main concern would be the comfort of the plastic holder. Some people complained about that plastic holder in the H04 magnetic recharging version, and the one for the H300 looks the same to me, but it might not be an issue because it seems many don’t complain too. It’s around your $70 budget, at least in the US.
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Lightest L shape with good balance and autonomy are Zebralghts , Next step down is H04 , same weight but half price, modifiable but minus 8-10% autonomy. Both brands have smaller batterry versions too, but 1/3 autonomy. 18650 is most balanced battery format
Do not focus only on the lumens. The color issue and so-called bad reflections are because of a cold white low-cri LED. So you can rule out just about all 0 lights. You want a warm high cri. Or at least a medium cri somewhere in the 80 plus range. And a color temperature somewhere below 4000k preferably closer to 3000k. And a wide smooth blanket of light is a whole lot better than any sort of light that produces any hotspot of any size. That’s why I provided the link to that armytek limited edition. It is more expensive than most and it is heavier than some although you can get a tail cap without a magnet in it that will reduce the weight a little bit. That just adds to the expense. So it fixes all of your chief complaints but adds some new ones. Off the shelf I still think it’s the best choice.
He might be asking about the full size olight perun 2 in his question. Which is a 21700 right angle light (Unlike the mini 16340 one I mentioned above.) Olight does the extremes on their right angle lights. 600mah or 4000mah.
the armytek price is very high and not found with high cri . The problem I encounter with warm light is the much lower light output. I am currently comparing my olight baton 3 pro NW, I have to set it to TURBO to shine brighter than my simple thrunite saber CW!!!
The link I provided above has a cri of 93. Or you can get the armytek C2 pro nichia with a 4500k and high Cri.
The two flashlights you’re comparing have entirely different beam patterns so you can’t really do that and come to any logical conclusion. Neutral is not warm. If you’ve never experienced 3000K high Cri in the woods then you just don’t know what you’re missing.
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Je possede une sofirn c 01 4000k , je n’est pas le budget élevé pour armytek nichia, merci pour votre conseil.
That is what, eight lumens and 6 m of throw? If that’s your only experience with a neutral light and you have zero experience with 3000k in the woods, again you don’t know what you’re missing.
100L mister