As a member here for 9 years you should be halfway up to speed on convoy S2+. Quit playing around with the AA stuff and get with the program. If you’re not going to be crawling and no water involved then you can take almost anything except those AA map readers. Unless of course there are maps, then by all means bring your favorites.
You can work out the current on Convoys, and thus expected runtime for a given battery. Anyway, the headlamp is the most critical light in a cave as that will be on all the time unlike handheld torches, and you really should be looking at professional headlamps for caving that can last longer than 8 hours or so. This thread is turning into an epic case of analysis paralysis.
I’ve been in a fair few caves but have never done proper organised “caving”. I carry at least 3, maybe 4 lights for going underground for more than an hour. These might not be right for you but I know they world well for me.
Zebralight H53 - this has been in many caves with me. An 18650 one would be better for the runtime. I have it configured so hold=low, click=medium, double click=high. Been knocked around but never fallen out of its strap. Alternatively an Acebeam, Armytek or Fenix right angled headlamp, with regulated output. I can’t recommend right angle headlamps enough.
Emisar D4V2. Or any small EDC floody light, clipped to my pocket for quick access. Other options might be more reliable and have better regulated output but I like my Emisar.
Astrolux FT02S in a holster. A fair bit of throw (600m) and lumens (7000 lm) for lighting up a cavern.
Sofirn SD05 - Spare light with simple UI in case someone else needs to borrow one. Also 100m waterproof, just in case.
I’ve taken a LEP (Lumintop Thor II) in a cave (actually an underground canal), which was fun but to be honest not super useful.
Whatever you end up doing, make sure you have 3 light sources on you, just in case, even if one is a tiny cheap one.
Actually, I am aware that light runtimes do not often show level/constant light output depending on the design of the electronics. The manufacturer quoted runtimes are taken at face value, and are used as a starting point for further investigation of lights performance.
Yes. I am concentrating more on lights that use 18650, 21700, and 26650 cells for principal illumination, including first/second backup lights. Lights with smaller cells would only be used in backup/emergency situations if all the larger cell lights were to fail or become unavailable for whatever reason(s).
I am checking that the (head)light runtimes should be at least around 8 hours (for the wanted light output). And I am also checking lights durability/reliability under wet, muddy, and dusty conditions as far as possible.
Actually my intent is aimed more at investigating mines/tunnels rather than going into caves. The reason being that mines usually have more to see.
Regardless, the lights chosen will have to be quite durable and reliable anyway for instances when I get into wet, dirty, and muddy environments (even within some mines).
Well, maybe more than that I think he was pointing out that testing graphs show the best truth about output. The ANSI run times are of course ridiculous because they allow the light to run down to levels that are far from useful. Often you'll find a light that due to a temperature sensor or a time will step down quickly from the brightest settings (turbo or high), and then what it does at that point it what can make or break a model for your use/needs. Say two lights with the same output advertise one hour of run time on high. Light A gives you 900 lumens for one minute and then tapers down somewhat quickly to 800 and 700 over five minutes where it then settles and will run another thirty minutes there before tapering on down to no joy. But Light B gives you 900 lumens for a minute and a half and then drastically steps down to 700 or even 600 lumens where it then does it's thing. Rough example but the behaviors of lights just depend on the driver and they can be all over the board. Actual regulated lights that give a somewhat consistent output over most of the life of the battery charge are less common but they're out there...have to watch those closely as well in both those initial lumens and especially their shut-off characteristics. All of this is one reason I mentioned the models I did...they have pretty good output and runtime combined. Of course running lowest levels that get you by is best usually. As you narrow down your choices, look up good reviews if they have some. This site is great of course but other websites like Zeroair's and some others also provide this excellent graph data. (There's a lot of that on here for various Convoy models, too....one of the trickier things for those is that there are just so many option at point of purchase, plus they're modder's heaven...but with his stock drivers you generally get a real bargain in terms of tech-for-dollar with great or reasonable run times and good light output without being hotrods.)
These are fun adventures...you're going to have a blast! Over here you'd run the risk of getting arrested for going in mines, if you could find a way in, and a great many are in such risky shape that...well...careful what you grab or lean on and such, at the very least. :)
You're not going to find headlamps with that kind of run time...well, not typical stuff. Anything that will run that long will have remote batteries and add some weight and bulk there. Depends on your light output setting of course but you won't see that in most lithium-ion 18650 headlamps unless you run a very low setting. For reference, the AAA Black Diamond headlamps...the Spot runs on three cells and generally you can get a good 4-5 hours running it just below high but of course the light is tapering down during that time. At max/high it throws a usable 55 meters or so (maybe a little further useful light in a cave)...after those hours it'll be cut back to maybe 25 meters. That's on good NiMH cells but you can get just a little better run time and slightly more lumens on the taper if you use lithium primaries (Energizer, etc). With alkalines the initial output is better for a half hour or so and then it tapers off poorly. The Storm model uses four cells but you actually don't get a whole lot more run time...a little but mostly some more lumens. The Petzls are either about the same as the Spot or a bit worse, depending on which. Their models that use the removeable lithium "Core" packs do fine, slight increase overall. These may be non-flashaholic models with run of the mill components (decent, though) but they have a pretty good comprehensive package. I keep hoping someone will design a lithium ion headlamp that dumbs down the highest output in favor of extended run times at reasonable light levels but it's like there's always a gap in settings (although ones with Narsil or Anduril firmware might be better...haven't really examined that but I should).
So....spare batteries and practice changing them behind your back in a dark room with your eyes closed.
As mentioned previously, I am not too keen on Zebralights. And I have concerns about the reliability and durability of headband straps that hold right angled lights on to the headband because the lights could be knocked off under certain conditions(?). So I am not not too keen about the use of right angled lights for headlights. My preference is for headlights that have a more "integrated" light on the headbands, so that there is less chance of the light being knocked off.
The other suggested lights will be looked into. Thank you.
As far as possible, any lights of interest are being checked for any online reviews that detail lights runtimes and durability etc. Zeroair site is one review site which I frequent!
Yes, mine exploration is more potentially more hazardous than cave exploration. I am aware of the dangers within mines including gases, animals, holes, pits, old dynamite etc.
I believe I have found some headlights that have sufficient runtime (around 8 hours) although at reduced light output (of course). But more than enough light to navigate with.
Spare cells would definitely be carried as well as spare/backup hand lights. And, yes, practicing changing cells in the dark is mandatory for me!
Don’t be paranoid raccoon city, I do not even know you.
I am only disagreeing with what I consider misinformation & bad advice concerning a light for rugged use.
No need to hate on me. In case you had not noticed, nobody on this thread agrees with your recommendation.
Yes...doesn't really take all that much, but depending on what you're in, sometimes more reach/more light can be more than helpful. Which headlamps are you seeing that you like?
Hmm. Of those I think I'd be inclined to check out the Wuben except for the switch being on the tube end ; the HC60 V2 except apparently it will not take standard/factory flat top cells - button only. I'm not familiar with that Osram emitter both are using but both look to have decent UIs...for the most part. Mode spacing is what kills these for light level/run time, imho (true of most unless they are ramping). That Nitecore HU60 actually looks really interesting other than being a remote battery model. Acebeam in some ways, too, just for the 21700. I think you may be surprised at the actual real life run times on all of those, though, unless you really can get by with the lowest light settings. This is where the graphs would help a lot just to see what their drivers are actually doing (constant current or not...). And take my comments with a grain of salt, too...hard for me to shake the perspective of wild caving. And of course spare batteries are fine even if you have to swap earlier or a couple times.
I don’t believe those lights are particularly rugged/durable, but I’ll check on that later.
Still looking into Petzl and other brands at present.
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The light I mentioned above has springs on both ends, two o-rings on the tail cap and the manufacturer rates it for 10 meters of drop and 10 meters underwater. The max model also. Does that mean it’s more rugged/durable than the others? No. On paper it’s hard to argue. In real life I would bet on it.