:quest:
What is the best heatsinking to use in a
SolarForce L 2 M?
I have copper tubing, could one make copper filings someway and put into a carrier that would stick together and move the heat out?
Looking for suggestions still trying to learn, butt may be too late? 
I use good old aluminium foil made into strips then wrap the pill until it’s snug…seems to work
This looks good Improving heat sinking on P60 style drop ins. | Candle Power Flashlight Forum
Haven’t tried it though.
Ya beat me to it…I usually do the same, cut strips from pop cans. I’m not so anal as to clean the graphics off the aluminum…if my P60’s are that close to eternal doom, I’ll go with another form factor 
great idea. think i will do that onto my Solarforce L2T.
I’ve always wondered exactly how far down one is suppose to wrap the drop-in. All the pictures I’ve seen around here hasn’t really helped me since they show the wrapped drop-in already in the host.
Did you look at the CPF link? it has some clear pictures of the depth of the wrap.
It still doesn’t seem very clear but I’m guessing that you’re not suppose to wrap the spring at the bottom of the drop-in.
you can wrap it down as far as you want. just don’t let the wrap touch the center spring on the driver.
if you do a good enough wrap job, you can remove the outer spring altogether. that actually helps with making the fit as tight as possible.
Silver > Copper > Gold > Aluminum > Brass
If you don’t have copper, aluminum works pretty well IME, tape or foil. If you use food grade foil, it help to acetone the shiny side before application. They put oil on it that burns off and clouds your lens the first few times you use the light.
Also, if you can’t find a proper sized heat sink for some odd mod, medium/fine aluminum or copper filing mixed with high thermal transfer epoxy fiberglass resin is a good long-term gap filler. Make it as thick as possible, 50/50 resin and filings.
I have made a wax casting of the inside if the light, the a negative mold of this with rtv casting resin. Coat the sides of the dropin with 50/50 filings and thermal adhesive and push it into the mold. When it sets it will be a perfect fit.
Numbers from matweb.com
Silver:
Specific Heat Capacity 0.234 J/g-°C 0.0559 BTU/lb-°F
Thermal Conductivity 419 W/m-K 2910 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F
Copper:
Specific Heat Capacity 0.385 J/g-°C 0.0920 BTU/lb-°F
Thermal Conductivity 385 W/m-K 2670 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F
Gold:
Specific Heat Capacity 0.128 J/g-°C 0.0306 BTU/lb-°F
Thermal Conductivity 301 W/m-K 2090 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F
Aluminum:
Specific Heat Capacity 0.900 J/g-°C 0.215 BTU/lb-°F
Thermal Conductivity 210 W/m-K 1460 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F
Red Brass:
Specific Heat Capacity 0.380 J/g-°C 0.0908 BTU/lb-°F
Thermal Conductivity 159 W/m-K 1100 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F
90-10 Bronze:
Specific Heat Capacity 0.376 J/g-°C 0.0899 BTU/lb-°F
Thermal Conductivity 189 W/m-K 1310 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F
Tin(solder):
Specific Heat Capacity 0.213 J/g-°C 0.0509 BTU/lb-°F
Thermal Conductivity 63.2 W/m-K 439 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F
Steel:
Specific Heat Capacity 0.448 - 0.502 J/g-°C 0.107 - 0.120 BTU/lb-°F
Thermal Conductivity 27.1 - 65.2 W/m-K 188 - 452 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F
Stainless:
Specific Heat Capacity 0.200 - 0.620 J/g-°C 0.0478 - 0.148 BTU/lb-°F
Thermal Conductivity 1.24 - 30.0 W/m-K 8.60 - 208 BTU-in/hr-ft²-°F
I use copper tape.
I think mine works a little better. It looks quite a bit like this example, but I use aluminum cut from cans of beer. The best aluminum is found in the 4th or 5th can.
YMMV 
The only problem with Copper is that it’s thermal conductivity goes down as the temp goes up, so the hotter it gets the less efficiently it conducts heat. Not sure if the temps involved here would ever make this a practical issue, but Aluminum just seems tailored for this kind of stuff. It’s conductive efficiency goes up as it gets hotter, plus it’s obviously far more economical that any of the Group 11 metals.
Light heat sinked yesterday.
Shadow JM-07 model “Pro” in Stone White.
Cut beer can strips 5/8” used two strips.
Then heavy duty alumumin cooking foil from
store bought Itialian food products.
Cut this alumunium and flatted out all the little
square bends that are add to strenight the pan.
Used two or three strips. Was surprized at all the
room in and around the pill.
Resulits: this light starts to get hot (at 1 1.2 minutes) faster than even the two SolarForce L2p and the L2M my favorite light with a
1,000 lumen drop-in that had the same heat-sinking.
Problem: knocked off the white plastic/nylon ring with the square inside it. Used to center the LED. Which side goes up and how to fix?
Thanks for the great advise and help found here.
Started off at the other forum they have some good
people butt a terabble sight go there when directed from BLF to look at something.
They talk about how great the ShitFire is and you get a
lot for the money. Well, SolarForce L2M with 1,000 lumens drop in that cost about $27.00 (United States dollars) total is the way to go. :8)
I use Cu because I don’t have a lathe and Cu is easy to solder, file, sand, dremel, etc, without clogging tools. If I had a lathe, I’d use Al. BLF; use what you have and share what you know. Thanks for the low down on Cu and heat. I don’t think very many know about that but I’m pretty sure warm Cu is still better than warm Al.