Heck with using Heat/Gas for de-doming

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
21

Thats the truth,acetone is quite agressive, even the Noctiogon`s red paint started to “melt”

Things i tested so far:

- gas: slow, great shift tint, you need to “bath” the emitter afterthat in order to remove the gas residue

- acetone: faster than gas but more dangerous, lesser tint shift

- heat( heats comes from the emitter itself,while working): fastest method, lowest tint shift, dangerous one, the dome dont fell off at 100% usualy

- heat( the heat comes from a heat gun or a hot air solder station) a fast method, but its main issue is that the metal pad under the sillicone isnt heated enough and usualy there are lotsa sillicone leftovers

  • heat combined( the working blade is heated too)…relatively good results here

In the matter of fact when i use gas or acetone method i usualy bath the emitter and the pcb with a hot(50+deg) water - believe or not it doesnt affect its work, of course to clear the gas and water residues i bath again with 100% alcohol afterthat

22

The one fluid I use is a Imron paint thinner, very fast and clean, usually 20 minutes to 30 minutes max. Smaller emitter’s even quicker?? A couple blast of canned air, a couple squirts of fresh clean Imron thinner and one more blast of air, done. Haven’t noticed any green tint /hue yet? This is what me and a couple other friends (also BLF members) agreed works best for us! :wink:

23

Excellent statement.

Wanna really get de-domed leds with the "right tint". Try getting with Cree and everyone here and on other forums and make a GB for one reel of leds without the domes, direct from Cree. OR from one of the many resellers in China. I bet they would do it.

24

I wonder what kind of tint shift would take place if I did this to a xml2 “8a”